Quarantine rightly

[Achilles Torben]

Hey guys

I've emtied my 1400 gallon divider tank to change Rockwork and replace the running bay from middle to small side of the tank.

Now my corals and fish in different pools.

Because I have expensive and also sensitive fish I thought about quarantine that is in germany very unusual. But I read here at this forum so much positive about quarantine that I want to do. My problem is that my English is so bad that I can't understand the things I googled or I searched here in forum. The Google translater can't help me at all.

My first experience in the last days was copper. After transfer fish from displaytank to pools itch start to attack my fish. I use copper for four days and everything was fine. But now itch starts again. I think I use not enough copper or not long enough.

Could you explain me with a few easy word how you go on for quarantine?

For example:

day 1 till day four every day x cc copper by 100 gallon
Day 10 till twenty x cc of x by 100 gallon

Grüße Torben

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[Deinonych]

My typical quarantine is as follows. Note that I purchase all of my livestock online, so I factor in a few days for the fish to recover from transport stress and get into a regular schedule.

Day 1: Receive and acclimate fish. Leave lights off, small feeding toward end of day.
Day 5: Praziquantel treatment #1
Day 12: 25% water change, praziquantel treatment #2
Day 15: Begin tank transfer method (TTM) for ich elimination
Day 27: Complete TTM, observe for 1-2 weeks
Day 34-41: Transfer to DT, assuming no problems during observation

 

[Achilles Torben]

Thanks for your answer. But in this time I have over 150 fish and tank transfer will not be able for me

Grüße Torben

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[scuzy]

You can do copper but slowly dose it and ramp up to desire copper level. I know my wrasses don't survive chloroquine phosphate treatment. So far ttm worked the best for me.


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[lespaul339]

If you use copper you will more than likely experience a few fish deaths. Some fish just can't handle it as well as others. I lost a beautiful orange back wrasse to copper treatment. TTM is much safer and easier to do in my opinion.

 

[Achilles Torben]

Full house for TTM

https://youtu.be/5vvGNj4I2Q4


Grüße Torben

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[Deinonych]

If you are going to use copper, you need to maintain therapeutic dosage for 30 days minimum. As noted above, you should increase the dosage slowly over several days. Also as noted above, some fish don't tolerate copper at all, especially angels and some wrasses. I stopped using copper years ago and have switched to TTM exclusively. However, TTM is difficult with so many fish.

 

[Dmorty217]

Chloroquine phosphate is what you want to use Torben, with that amount of fish and it won't suppress appetite like copper will. What wrasse do you have, some don't do well with chloroquine phosphate. You saw ich come back with copper because copper has to be present for 30 day minimum

 

[Achilles Torben]

Hi my wrasses

Bodianus opercularis
Labroides rubrolabiatus
Cirrhilabrus lineatus
Cirrhilabrus rhomboidalis
Cirrhilabrus solorensis
Macropharyngodon bipartitus
Halichoeres iridis

But I don't like my wrasses and would give them away when if it will better for my quarantine.

Never heard about chloroquine phosphate. Will google

Grüße Torben

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[ThRoewer]

My suggestion to treat ich with a large number of fish would be hyposalinity as all reef fish tolerate it well.
Copper is toxic and difficult to maintain at the correct level. CP is not tolerated by all fish and it's effectiveness against ich is so far not backed by scientific research.

Hyposalinity on the other hand is easy to maintain if you cover the tank to limit evaporation. I have right now a couple of barnacle blennies in hyposalinity for 6 weeks. For about 3 weeks I have not refilled RO water and the water level has only dropped about a centimeter - not enough to get out of the effective salinity range.

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[Dmorty217]

Hi my wrasses

Bodianus opercularis
Labroides rubrolabiatus
Cirrhilabrus lineatus
Cirrhilabrus rhomboidalis
Cirrhilabrus solorensis
Macropharyngodon bipartitus
Halichoeres iridis

But I don't like my wrasses and would give them away when if it will better for my quarantine.

Never heard about chloroquine phosphate. Will google

Grüße Torben

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Haha you don't like your wrasse! I understand that, not much of a wrasse guy myself

 

[Deinonych]

Agree with ThRoewer that hyposalinity is the best option given the number of fish.

 

[Achilles Torben]

Okay thanks could you explain hypersensitivity with few simple words?

If I understood right I reduce salinity daily about 2 points. In this moment I am about 32 so tomorrow to 30 and day after tomorrow down to 28 until 16, right?

Grüße Torben

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[ThRoewer]

Drop the salinity to somewhere between 1.008 and 1.010 kg/L and leave it there for a couple of weeks. Most Cryptocaryon strains can't encyst at such a low salinity and therefore fail to reproduce. (there are two Taiwanese strains that do fine down to 1.005, though those are not very likely what our fish have)
Ideally you prepare and cycle a tank at that salinity before adding the fish. When done that way the fish should be clean within one week. Add another one or two weeks to be on the safe side before ramping up again.

Key is that the salinity is kept below 1.010 at all times. The ideal point is 1.009 as that gives you some error tolerance in both directions. Best is it to cover the tank and mark the water level.

You will need a temperature corrected salinity refractometer that has been calibrated to 1.000 with distilled water to get the salinity right. Cheap swing-arm salinity checkers are too inaccurate and will endanger your fish or spoil the treatment.

At the begin of treatment the fish can be dropped straight from normal salinity to hyposalinity - this is key so no cysts can form in the treatment tanks.
The ramping up of the salinity after the treatment has to be done slowly over the course of a couple of days (the fish's kidneys need to have time to get back accustomed to pumping larger amounts of fluids). Once you reach 1.016 you can drip the fish in to normal salinity over an hour.

 

[Achilles Torben]

Okay I dose two days already copper because I am afraid to loose time. Till Wednesday I organize everything for hydrosalinity. I talked to a German guy who has experience in saltwater for over 20 years.
I ordered a electronic tool to control the salinity. Conductance is the right English word?

I will set up new system and introduce fish directly into salinity 1.009

German guy told me to use something to control pH

Thanks for your support

Grüße Torben

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[ThRoewer]

While a conductivity meter is a good tool to maintain a constant salinity, I would never rely on it to set up a hyposalinity tank. For that purpose I find a salinity refractometer to be more reliable.
pH control can be done by dosing kalkwasser or 2 part solution.
The things to watch for are ammonia and nitrite.
Another issue you may run into are bacteria blooms, so I would add a good skimmer and an UV clarifier to tanks that are too large to make a quick 100% water change.

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[Salty150]

It is my understanding that getting the fish into the hypo as soon as possible is the key.

Just make sure that the temp and PH of both waters is the same.

 

[ThRoewer]

Also, the fish should be clear of ich and show no more white dots after 7 days. If they still have spots after 10 days it's either not ich or you got one of the euryhaline ich strains. In that case you have to switch to another treatment method.

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[Salty150]

Also, the fish should be clear of ich and show no more white dots after 7 days. If they still have spots after 10 days it's either not ich or you got one of the euryhaline ich strains. In that case you have to switch to another treatment method.

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What treatment method would you use in that case?

Keeping the fish in hypo - and use what?

Formalin?

 

[Dmorty217]

what treatment method would you use in that case?

Keeping the fish in hypo - and use what?

Formalin?

cp