Quarantine rightly

If it's an euryhaline ich strain I would start tank transfers if the number and sizes of fish permit. Otherwise switch to CP or copper.
If it isn't ich at all then a proper diagnosis would be required to know how to treat it effectively. Sending some affected fish to a parasitology lab is usually the best way to get a conclusive diagnosis and worth the effort if many valuable fish are at risk.
Just throwing various things at it and see what sticks is generally not a viable approach and usually leads to significant losses.

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Hi
Bought new hardware to check salinity today. Hope to make no mistake with different salinity units in world. This Hanna checker works with PSU ppt and SG. If I am understand well I use for 1.009
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Here my first measuring
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Grüße Torben

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Hello
Bad news with hypersalinity quarantine. Bought a conductivity meter for exact quarantine because digital refraktometer was to inaccurate. After two till three weeks fish start die with blood under skin. I rise salinity very slowly to 1.0208 now. Fish start feeling better but every day more fish die. 30 Chromis cyanea, 15 Pseudanthias evansi, 5 Pseudanthias pulcherimus, few Gramma loreto, few fridmani, several wrasses, some Zebrasoma flavescens, one Holacanthus clarionensis, one Paracentropyge venusta, one Centropyge multicolor, one Centropyge collini, my Apolemichthys xanthopunctatos female (from my pair) one of my Chelmon marginales pair. I'm sure I forgot few more....

Hope my bandits pair my interrupta (pair) and my two Conspic will made it. I can see bloody points under bandits skin but in this moment all of them move normally and eat well. Also all flavescens have bloody points that are visible if I put them in a glass.

Next problem is that my Zanclus is full of dots or mushrooms or Odinum. Can't exactly say what is it. Have to start with copper now... Hope that will not kill everything in this moment...



Grüße Torben

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I don't think that the hyposalinity killed your fish if the salinity was 1.009.
More likely is that your fish have something more malignant than Cryptocaryon which is not affected by hyposalinity.

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Do you have a microscope? The best for inspecting fish is a binocular microscope like it is used on micro electronic assembly lines.

Take one sick fish and put it under the microscope to see what's on it. It's best to have the fish in a shallow glass bowl. If the fish is not holding still enough you may have to sedate it slightly.
Another thing you need is a good high power LED flashlight to illuminate the fish from different angles.

I just lost 5 Pseudoanthias ventralis in QT because I assumed that they had Cryptocaryon. But after inspecting the last one that was still alive I found her full of flukes. They were only visible at the right light angle.

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Hello Roewer

Is the unit right?

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Relative Dichte = SG = relativ density

Or is that the mistake that 1.009 g/cm3

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Grüße Torben

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Ehrlich gesagt, ich hab mir da nie Gedanken drüber gemacht.
Ich hab grad mal nachgeschaut und mein Refraktometer hat eine relative Dichte Skala neben der ppt Skala.
 
Hallo
Ach du bist es ;)
Macht aber einen riesen Unterschied. Fische die ich langsam in der Salinität reduziert habe traten die Symptome erst nach Wochen auf. Fische die ich sofort in dieses Wasser eingesetzt habe schon nach einer Woche.

Grüße Torben

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Do a freshwater dip on one fish that has white spots and see if the white spots fall off. If they do fall off it is velvet and treat with copper. Velvet is NOT affected by hypo.
 
Do a freshwater dip on one fish that has white spots and see if the white spots fall off. If they do fall off it is velvet and treat with copper. Velvet is NOT affected by hypo.
If they fall off in a freshwater bath it's rather flukes than velvet. Amyloodinium is tiny and if you see white spots with ich or velvet, those are mostly the fish's reaction to the infection.

One of the best indicators for ich is its cycle. If the spots stay longer in one spot than 5 days or change location every day it's likely not ich and you better have a closer look (ideally with a microscope).

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Last Saturday two experienced fish guys visit me and take a look at my fish. They found dots on fish. We decided to go with copper. Dejong recommended me 0.2 mg per liter for hole time. Every day I check the water and redispensing copper.

What do you think I should go ahead.
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Grüße Torben

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Did they use a microscope or just the naked eye to inspect the fish?
Dots is not really a precise diagnosis as those can be present with many diseases.
With ich you can actually see the parasite rotating in the cavity it dug into the fish's skin.
 
No microscope. They put different fish into a glass in that the fish can't turn around. Put strong light up the glass and look from the side. There was pimples on skin.

Grüße Torben

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It seems that you spent quite some money on your system.
I would suggest to spend a little more to get a good inspection microscope.

A pimple can be caused by a lot of things, not just ich. Only having a closer look with a microscope can bring clarity.

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Thinking about a little bit different quarantine method. Flow over 1.5 meters per second Cryptocaryon cannot settle on fish. Want to build a glass quarantine aquarium with double bottom and place a Hydro Wizard ECM 63 in there with a flow of 50.000 liter. So I will reach the 1.5 meters per second flow. Oodimium will need 5 days Cryptocaryon 3 days and fish will free of these diseases. No stress like tank transfer or hypersalinity. No problems with copper.

Somebody can say something about my plans? Is this realistic?

Grüße Torben

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Thinking about a little bit different quarantine method. Flow over 1.5 meters per second Cryptocaryon cannot settle on fish. Want to build a glass quarantine aquarium with double bottom and place a Hydro Wizard ECM 63 in there with a flow of 50.000 liter. So I will reach the 1.5 meters per second flow. Oodimium will need 5 days Cryptocaryon 3 days and fish will free of these diseases. No stress like tank transfer or hypersalinity. No problems with copper.

Somebody can say something about my plans? Is this realistic?


I have never heard of that approach. I really doubt that it would work. Given the size and value of your collection I do not think it is wise to try an unproven method.
 
It will also be hard on most fish to constantly swim against such a flow.
Also, without a way to kill the parasites in the water column (like a high power UV) it would never work, even if the fish could handle the flow.

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Thinking about a little bit different quarantine method. Flow over 1.5 meters per second Cryptocaryon cannot settle on fish. Want to build a glass quarantine aquarium with double bottom and place a Hydro Wizard ECM 63 in there with a flow of 50.000 liter. So I will reach the 1.5 meters per second flow. Oodimium will need 5 days Cryptocaryon 3 days and fish will free of these diseases. No stress like tank transfer or hypersalinity. No problems with copper.

Somebody can say something about my plans? Is this realistic?

Grüße Torben

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It will also be hard on most fish to constantly swim against such a flow.
Also, without a way to kill the parasites in the water column (like a high power UV) it would never work, even if the fish could handle the flow.

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You have to give him credit though - thinking outside the box.

In "theory" it is a great idea.
 
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