RADIONS PAR CHART UPDATED...includes spectrums

Hello:

I just set up a 120 Gallon Tank with 2 Radion XR30W Pro's. They are mounted 11 Inches above the water, and I am using the standard program that comes with the Units. My Tank will begin cycling tomorrow, so really I have no Need to Get anything done. But It will be an SPS Reef Tank with only 3-5 Fish and the rest SPS corals. I also purchased the reeflink and I have two MP40E's that I will control. Really stoked now, but I know I have the right equipment.
Bruce

You will be happy with your choice. Just don't go power crazy and keep your water parameters stable and things will grow well.
 
I am actually waiting for my new tank to show up. sr-120 Innovative Marine 72 x 24 x 16 tall. I thought it would be here by now but it is on it's way from California. It should be here by next week and then the fun begins!
9668079556_0cc2e8bef6_c.jpg


10416790975_8ed57ab8e5_c.jpg

Great. Looking forward to the graph AND your build!
 
Radion Pro G3 w/ Wide Angle TIR PAR

Radion Pro G3 w/ Wide Angle TIR PAR

I finally got around to doing PAR measurements in my new tank build this morning prior to introducing first inhabitants in a couple of weeks, and thought I would share results since practical G3 wide-angle lens info is fairly lacking from the research I've tried to do the last few months. In addition, I really appreciate Eastanherstbias' previous work here, so I have included my own general 9", 17", and 29" measurements to provide an approximation of PAR between normal and wide-angle lenses should you want to give that a go -- even with all the variables that entails. The top greyed-out section of my table have measurements taken directly underneath one of my Radions -- or as close as I could do it. Most other measurements on my aquascape are naturally offset from the center, and that distance effects PAR as you'll see. I'll let you draw your own conclusions. I'm still formulating my own.

Background: I have 2 Radion G3 Pros with optional Wide-Angle TIR lenses over my 160gal 54"Lx30"Wx24"H reef. The Radions are seated on top of a hood that is painted inside with high-gloss white; The fixtures are centered front-to-back over the 30" wide tank and are just 6.25" apart length-wise (they are purposely not equidistant over the tank -- but pushed towards the center); The bottom of the lenses are 9" over the water operating level. As a side note, I really like the way these wide-angle lenses decrease shadows in my wide tank, but even more than expected, it comes with a substantive cost of PAR at the same time...

There are three attachments:
1) Da Reef Orientation Photo -- to give you a visual how the Radions are mounted on the hood over the tank
2) Da Reef Front View Depth Annotated -- a head-on view of my aquascape with a legend of the points measured
3) Radion Pro G3 Wide TIR PAR PDF -- The data points

Caveats: This is not scientific. There was variability with moving PAR readings in my real tank as my hand/PVC and the current manipulated the exact orientation of the sensor -- I've recorded a rough average of the readings over a several-second timeframe without regard to any other measurements I was trying to also record. ...and because of those "moving measurements", some of the specific numbers don't make logical sense if taken as absolutes when now compared side-by-side, but provide what I was after for my own purpose, given a few hours work putting this together and then attempting to document for the forum to hopefully help someone else one day. If you don't think this is useful, please ignore it vs taking the time to respond with a flame. ;)
 

Attachments

  • Da Reef Orientation Photo.jpg
    Da Reef Orientation Photo.jpg
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  • Da Reef Front View Depth Annotated.jpg
    Da Reef Front View Depth Annotated.jpg
    57.8 KB · Views: 2
  • Radion Pro G3 Wide TIR PAR.pdf
    36.3 KB · Views: 3
Radion G3 Pro w/wide angle tir lens

Radion G3 Pro w/wide angle tir lens

Just wondering if I understand your chart right: at E20 with 14k par value is 233, at F24 with 10k par value is 182

Are these not low par values for a reef tank? I always though it was best to keep them around 500.

Thanks in advance,
John
 
Just wondering if I understand your chart right: at E20 with 14k par value is 233, at F24 with 10k par value is 182

Are these not low par values for a reef tank? I always though it was best to keep them around 500.

Thanks in advance,
John

Correct. Yes, they are low PAR values for some inhabitants, not others, and of course PAR lowers the deeper you go in the water, and with the wide-angle TIRS, the further away something is from the center of the LEDs. What you want to house in your reef and where you place corals is important. If you're running a FOWLR tank, most fish don't really care. If one wants to blast a tank with super-high PAR for say some certain SPS to get maximum growth, the wide-angle TIRs alone may not be the best way to go.
 
Correct. Yes, they are low PAR values for some inhabitants, not others, and of course PAR lowers the deeper you go in the water, and with the wide-angle TIRS, the further away something is from the center of the LEDs. What you want to house in your reef and where you place corals is important. If you're running a FOWLR tank, most fish don't really care. If one wants to blast a tank with super-high PAR for say some certain SPS to get maximum growth, the wide-angle TIRs alone may not be the best way to go.

Yes, placement of corals is super important along with flow and tank chemistry. Lights are only one component of the system.
 
Easy way to post your graph files or your schedules.

Easy way to post your graph files or your schedules.

Reef Central accepts zip files. I use winrar to add my schedule.etg file to a zip. Whatever zip program you use should work. Once it is in a zip file you can add it in your post by clicking the paperclip icon above for attachments then click upload. Very simple. This will make it easier for everyone to share their files.

FYI - Don't shoot the messenger.
Giving out your email to everybody and their uncle results in spam from all the bots surfing the forums for live emails. This is the reason craigslist went to a relay email to try to prevent all the spamming and the information fishermen.

Have a great day and hopefully this helps!
 
I finally got around to doing PAR measurements in my new tank build this morning prior to introducing first inhabitants in a couple of weeks, and thought I would share results since practical G3 wide-angle lens info is fairly lacking from the research I've tried to do the last few months. In addition, I really appreciate Eastanherstbias' previous work here, so I have included my own general 9", 17", and 29" measurements to provide an approximation of PAR between normal and wide-angle lenses should you want to give that a go -- even with all the variables that entails. The top greyed-out section of my table have measurements taken directly underneath one of my Radions -- or as close as I could do it. Most other measurements on my aquascape are naturally offset from the center, and that distance effects PAR as you'll see. I'll let you draw your own conclusions. I'm still formulating my own.

Background: I have 2 Radion G3 Pros with optional Wide-Angle TIR lenses over my 160gal 54"Lx30"Wx24"H reef. The Radions are seated on top of a hood that is painted inside with high-gloss white; The fixtures are centered front-to-back over the 30" wide tank and are just 6.25" apart length-wise (they are purposely not equidistant over the tank -- but pushed towards the center); The bottom of the lenses are 9" over the water operating level. As a side note, I really like the way these wide-angle lenses decrease shadows in my wide tank, but even more than expected, it comes with a substantive cost of PAR at the same time...

There are three attachments:
1) Da Reef Orientation Photo -- to give you a visual how the Radions are mounted on the hood over the tank
2) Da Reef Front View Depth Annotated -- a head-on view of my aquascape with a legend of the points measured
3) Radion Pro G3 Wide TIR PAR PDF -- The data points

Caveats: This is not scientific. There was variability with moving PAR readings in my real tank as my hand/PVC and the current manipulated the exact orientation of the sensor -- I've recorded a rough average of the readings over a several-second timeframe without regard to any other measurements I was trying to also record. ...and because of those "moving measurements", some of the specific numbers don't make logical sense if taken as absolutes when now compared side-by-side, but provide what I was after for my own purpose, given a few hours work putting this together and then attempting to document for the forum to hopefully help someone else one day. If you don't think this is useful, please ignore it vs taking the time to respond with a flame. ;)

Thank you for doing this! What % power did you have your lights on? 75%? 100%?
 
Eastamherstbias,
Are you still utilizing the same program on the new tank that you were for the original 120? If so, would you mind sharing? Just PM me for my email address if you wouldn't mind.

Both tanks look great BTW. Do you still have the 120 set up? I have a "new to me" 120 that just finished cycling and am working on rock placement. Marco Mortar seems to be an interesting alternative to epoxy. Thanks for the info and research that you put forth.
Cheers!
 
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