Very nice build!!!! I too am in the process of building a plywood tank.....I see you didn't use the 45's for reinforcements in the bottom....Any reason you didn't? Did you pour or roll your epoxy? I incorporated a steel framed embedded in epoxy around the tank something similar to AcroSteves trying to eliminate alot of cross bracing. My tank is 60"Lx42"x29"H.
redtop03's 360 gallon plywood adventure
- Thread starter redtop03
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redtop03
moved slow
chriscobb,
the 45's will sure make a stronger joint,I don't think I will need them,I am gonna frame the tank in with wood when I get it set up,they're kinda difficult to cut out too, but I hope I don't regret not adding them,
I tried to roll/brush the epoxy in but its kinda thick,I ended up using a bondo spreader,my epoxy started setting up before I could get it really smooth,I ended up with a less than smooth interior,
this was my first time using anything like this,I had no clue how to do it,the pour method results in a lot slicker job.I did pour the bottom of the overflow box,the bulkhead holes was tricky,but it came out a lot better
I just couldn't afford the steel for mine,but thats is definitely the best way to do it,if you did yours like acrosteve did,you probably wont need the 45's,but wont hurt either
do you have a build thread started,I'd love to follow your build as well?
the 45's will sure make a stronger joint,I don't think I will need them,I am gonna frame the tank in with wood when I get it set up,they're kinda difficult to cut out too, but I hope I don't regret not adding them,
I tried to roll/brush the epoxy in but its kinda thick,I ended up using a bondo spreader,my epoxy started setting up before I could get it really smooth,I ended up with a less than smooth interior,
this was my first time using anything like this,I had no clue how to do it,the pour method results in a lot slicker job.I did pour the bottom of the overflow box,the bulkhead holes was tricky,but it came out a lot better
I just couldn't afford the steel for mine,but thats is definitely the best way to do it,if you did yours like acrosteve did,you probably wont need the 45's,but wont hurt either
do you have a build thread started,I'd love to follow your build as well?
No build thread started yet....kinda lazy like to keep working, but have taken tons of pics.....I've gotten alot of tips from fingerlakes guys. I did the 45's and yes they are alittle tricky at first, but once I figured out the saw setup it was a breeze......I build the frame and embedded it into epoxy trying to eliminate as much of the cross bracing as possible....I ran a coast to coast overflow externally, and planning on external wave box, but also want to tinker with surge tanks as well.....I went with the super thick fiberglass as Acro did as well for the added security. The tank is eurobraced 6" all the way around as well. I will post some pics and start a thread shortly though...
redtop03
moved slow
kent over there on fingerlakesreef is the plywood guru,
you'll definitely have a strong tank,I wanted to do the coast to coast,I didn't want it inside my tank,and couldn't figure out how to do external,how did you do it?got a pic
if you do the wave box,you probably wont need the surge tanks
kent used the surge tanks on his 1000gal. that is an awesome tank,thats were I got the idea to try 'em
I didn't understand the surge box concept 'til I'd done gone too far to incorporate them into mine
you'll definitely have a strong tank,I wanted to do the coast to coast,I didn't want it inside my tank,and couldn't figure out how to do external,how did you do it?got a pic
if you do the wave box,you probably wont need the surge tanks
kent used the surge tanks on his 1000gal. that is an awesome tank,thats were I got the idea to try 'em
I didn't understand the surge box concept 'til I'd done gone too far to incorporate them into mine
Here's a poor pic showing the location of the overflow....I'll have to get better pics....
Again poor pic the tank is actually upside down...All the angle is 2" and has rabbet joints and epoxy was laid in the joint and frame was put into place and welded. There will be another covering over top the angle which will be laminated using West and 406 additive....To bond the angle I used 404 additive which is for high impact loads.
Again poor pic the tank is actually upside down...All the angle is 2" and has rabbet joints and epoxy was laid in the joint and frame was put into place and welded. There will be another covering over top the angle which will be laminated using West and 406 additive....To bond the angle I used 404 additive which is for high impact loads.
Again sorry for the poor quality pics but you get an idea of how the 45s are in there as well....Still not sure if I will need to cross brace the center of the tank though??? I used Birch plywood....I wanted the smoothest surface possible. All the screwholes will be covered with epoxy thickened with 406 additive, and all the 45 joints where they meet the plywood will be fileted with epoxy and 406 additive, which will allow the fiberglass to be laid easier. For added insurance I'm using 37oz fiberglass cloth.
redtop03
moved slow
as for the cross bracing,you could finish the tank all but the main top,do your water test with a wood clamp across the top and see how much it deflects by carefully loosening the clamp,if it bows more than you are comfortable with,then add the cross brace,but I don't think it will need it
I think thats what I'm gonna do,I'll finish my top piece as planned and do my water test without it and just use my clamps,leave the middle clamp and loosen the other 2,if it holds to my satisfaction then go back and cut out the 2 braces that I don't want,if it does bow then just leave 'em.
I think thats what I'm gonna do,I'll finish my top piece as planned and do my water test without it and just use my clamps,leave the middle clamp and loosen the other 2,if it holds to my satisfaction then go back and cut out the 2 braces that I don't want,if it does bow then just leave 'em.
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masharp1126
New member
Redtop, here's a link to my build thread. Gotta warn you though that I'm sloowwww
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1436688
The last couple of days, I've been reading a couple of threads on monsterfishkeepers.com and have seen a product called Rubber Coat thats distributed here in the US by PermaDri, out of California, I think. The tank being built on that site has opened my eyes to a possible new way of water proofing. This rubber coating goes on like paint (roller or brush). I called and talked to the product manager this morning and it sounds promising. Appears to be totally safe to use, and he said it's used in a lot or marine applications out in CA. I'm going to get a gallon ($55) and try on my sumps. If it works as well as I think it might, I'll NEVER epoxy and fiberglass again. I HATED that part of the build.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1436688
The last couple of days, I've been reading a couple of threads on monsterfishkeepers.com and have seen a product called Rubber Coat thats distributed here in the US by PermaDri, out of California, I think. The tank being built on that site has opened my eyes to a possible new way of water proofing. This rubber coating goes on like paint (roller or brush). I called and talked to the product manager this morning and it sounds promising. Appears to be totally safe to use, and he said it's used in a lot or marine applications out in CA. I'm going to get a gallon ($55) and try on my sumps. If it works as well as I think it might, I'll NEVER epoxy and fiberglass again. I HATED that part of the build.
redtop03
moved slow
masharp,I read about that over there as well,they've already approved it in residential water systems in Australia,
I doubt if its as strong as the fiberglass,but it does look to be easier to use,its a self healing rubberized coating,thats a big plus
I already had my stuff bought when I found it,I hope it works well,because its a lot cheaper
I doubt if its as strong as the fiberglass,but it does look to be easier to use,its a self healing rubberized coating,thats a big plus
I already had my stuff bought when I found it,I hope it works well,because its a lot cheaper
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14927666#post14927666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
he is one of my esteemed mentors on here
Water keepers ocean is on the new to the reef forum
I've tried a plywood tank but it needed a ton of Thompson's Water Seal and it was really hard to see the fish.
Gotcha, kinda like that old movie Porky's.
Aquarist007
New member
he never had a tank made of wood---better to ask him to comment on his ark
I never built one, as Lowe's doesn't have measuring staffs calibrated in cubits.
Rhodophyta
New member
Clubs in this area used to sponsor plywood tank builds and each time participants built dozens of plywood tanks from 120 to 960 gallons. There were maybe a few people who built more of them than me, but my way didn't leak. I repaired a lot of leaking plywood tanks after the workshops, and the ones with "45's" have proven much more prone to leak than those without this kind of reinforcement. Perhaps it's because the insert doubles the number of seams inside the tank increasing the odds of a bad seal somewhere, or because some screws holding in the 45 hit a screw holding the panels and create a channel through which water will eventually escape. I have seen both. Intuitively you would think that adding reinforcement would be good, but in practice, the unexpected turned out to be true, not our instincts.
Another thing to avoid is a stand that stresses the bottom seams, especially on the sides containing glass. The outer 3/4" (or 1" if that thickness of plywood is used) can actually hang over the stand if for some reason you'd want to, but what is critical is to have a solid base from that point on in for at least a couple inches. You are safer if you laminate some beams with alternating 2 by 4's or 2 by 6's and half inch plywood so that the plywood near the seams won't sag. In tall tanks (42"), I have used 2 by 4's the short way on 1 1/2" centers to create a solid stand top. The outer rail was a 2 by 12, then a 2 by 8 inside with the 2 by 4's resting on top of it and the plywood core. A 2 by 4 and a 2 by 8 are not an exact match for a 2 by 12, so the difference went on the bottom.
Another thing to avoid is a stand that stresses the bottom seams, especially on the sides containing glass. The outer 3/4" (or 1" if that thickness of plywood is used) can actually hang over the stand if for some reason you'd want to, but what is critical is to have a solid base from that point on in for at least a couple inches. You are safer if you laminate some beams with alternating 2 by 4's or 2 by 6's and half inch plywood so that the plywood near the seams won't sag. In tall tanks (42"), I have used 2 by 4's the short way on 1 1/2" centers to create a solid stand top. The outer rail was a 2 by 12, then a 2 by 8 inside with the 2 by 4's resting on top of it and the plywood core. A 2 by 4 and a 2 by 8 are not an exact match for a 2 by 12, so the difference went on the bottom.
redtop03
moved slow
Rhodophyta
I skipped doing the 45's inside,I was planning on framing the outside with 1x4's,do you think thats a good idea or not?
do you have a pic of what you're describing about the stand,what do you think about how mines built,what can I improve on,I thought the 2x6's would be enough,I sure dont want it or the tank to collapse.
waterkeeper,our lowes may still have the staff you're talking about,I think I saw a few of them a while back
I skipped doing the 45's inside,I was planning on framing the outside with 1x4's,do you think thats a good idea or not?
do you have a pic of what you're describing about the stand,what do you think about how mines built,what can I improve on,I thought the 2x6's would be enough,I sure dont want it or the tank to collapse.
waterkeeper,our lowes may still have the staff you're talking about,I think I saw a few of them a while back
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