Reeflo Orca 250

The listed price on Dwyer's site for an RMC is about $101. Keep looking on Ebay.

Thats a tremendous help Hahnmeister, Reeflo would have to be contacted to see if a larger volute could be fitted. The enkamat would be easy, just have not heard of anyone trying it with these. The A.O. Smith motor I had, had definate issues with heat, the Baldors are much better. I was wondering if Euro-reef used the 7010 on there 8 foot skimmer and hammerhead. I wasnt sure the 7010 would hold up to these pumps. Sounds like it does, if thats what they used. Doing these things and maybe making the air intake abit larger would probably be more than enough. Dont see needing an Alita air pump if these could be worked out. How much air do you think would be optimal or max this Orca 250 could handle? Inside body is about 11.5 inches and the neck is about 5.5 inch.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12456446#post12456446 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
the RMB series meters (5") meters are simply too restrictive, and plumbing one in to measure airflow will kill the airflow.

Don't have time to read the whole rest of the posts right now, but this stuck out to me. I use the 5" airflow meter, BUT when I hook it up, if it WERE to reduce the air flow I should see the water level in the skimmer change, indicating that air flow has changed, which it does not. It runs exactely the same with or without the airflow meter hooked up. That leads me to believe that the air meter has no bearing on the reading.
 
Wow, honestly, a 5.5-6" neck shouldnt go over 2000lph or else you will start to have overflow/foam cannon problems. I thought they were 8" necks all this time...

A 11.5-12" body though, thats enough diameter for 4000lph of air... IF the water flow is kept low... like 1:1.5. These pumps just dont do that though. Thats sorta the problem... the bubble density looks high because of all the water motion, but I doubt these pumps are getting better than a 1:5 air/water ratio. So due to the water turbulence, I would say these skimmers are right on in the end. Pushing more than 2000lph of air through them might not be a good idea. You might have to make the neck wider besides just changing the flow characteristics of the pump.

That motor though... that motor with the right impeller and volute could move 5000-6000lph of air I bet, not even force fed. It would need about a 6" diameter, 2" thick volute with 2" inlet/outlet. The impeller diameter could stay about the same (as long as it doesnt sputter at startup though, no reason not to go slightly larger). But yeah... you have to change the wet-end of the pump to be extremely flow-biased. You might think 'but then wont it choke under any back pressure or depth?' Well, it would be more sensitive, yes, but were not talking a 20' tall skimmer here either, just a fraction of that. The thing is, its an asperating needlewheel in the first place... thats what kills the pressure handling more than anything you could do with the volute/impeller of the pump.

But yeah... waaaay too much for what this body can handle. 2000lph seems about right to me. More might just mean you skim wetter (and not always better.... in this case it would most likely just mean more water in the cup, not that the bubbles drain any less, since bubbles are being forced up faster, no matter if they are ready or not).

My 'route' for such a skimmer would be to use a smaller pump. I mean, heck, I dont like them, but dual Sicce PSK2500s would make just as much air or more for less than 50 watts. A Laguna 1500 with an enlarged volute would do 2250lph for about 40 watts or so.

Actually... thats sort of the plan with some of the Laguna 4200's that ATB is modding... they will replace dart needlewheels on some Volcanoes. 6000-8000lph of air for about 100-120 watts.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12457721#post12457721 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by klasiksb
Don't have time to read the whole rest of the posts right now, but this stuck out to me. I use the 5" airflow meter, BUT when I hook it up, if it WERE to reduce the air flow I should see the water level in the skimmer change, indicating that air flow has changed, which it does not. It runs exactely the same with or without the airflow meter hooked up. That leads me to believe that the air meter has no bearing on the reading.

That would be true if this were a single-pass skimmer, where the mixing pump is the feed pump. But these are recirculating, so if the air is restricted, and the pump moves more water, its drawing water from the same body of water that its pumping into, so the water level stays the same.
 
What I find happening with this skimmer is that it skims great if I set it to have the bubbles breaking in the first couple inches of the neck, but it does not seem to have enough air to push the skimmate out and over the top of the neck and I get very thick, very dry skimmate with alot of mud to clean out of the neck every few days (not a bad thing), but not ideal. This is why, I believe, many find they have the bubbles breaking near the top few inches of the neck to get the foam out of the Orca 250 but I find operating it this way less productive for unknown reasons, which may be why people have gone to extending the neck another 5- 6 inches, but I found this to just give me dry skimmate again. Hope you can make sense of that Hahn.
 
Good question, 450 gallon tank, 150 gallons of sump so about 600 total. Tank is two and 1/2 years mature with 30 some fish. Skimmer is fed off a tee from the return line at about 350-450 gallons per hour. I can easily increase this but it does not seem to help. Recommended flow is 400-600gph. I will remeasure the neck of mine later, I hope it is 8 inch, but I think it is a 8 inch riser with 5.5 inch diameter.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12457908#post12457908 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
That would be true if this were a single-pass skimmer, where the mixing pump is the feed pump. But these are recirculating, so if the air is restricted, and the pump moves more water, its drawing water from the same body of water that its pumping into, so the water level stays the same.

I guess my point really is, something inside that skimmer should change if there were a sudden reduction of air which, from what your saying, would happen when hooking up the 5" air meter, which there is none. If I close my air valve some, there is an obvious change.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12458745#post12458745 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cweder
What I find happening with this skimmer is that it skims great if I set it to have the bubbles breaking in the first couple inches of the neck, but it does not seem to have enough air to push the skimmate out and over the top of the neck and I get very thick, very dry skimmate with alot of mud to clean out of the neck every few days (not a bad thing), but not ideal. This is why, I believe, many find they have the bubbles breaking near the top few inches of the neck to get the foam out of the Orca 250 but I find operating it this way less productive for unknown reasons, which may be why people have gone to extending the neck another 5- 6 inches, but I found this to just give me dry skimmate again. Hope you can make sense of that Hahn.
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Okay, when someone tells me this, it makes me think of one of two things. This isnt set in stone however, and without seeing it in person, all I can do is speculate, however, if your bubbles are breaking as soon as they reach the neck rather than making a nice foam head, that means that there just isnt a whole lot of stuff in the water to skim out, or that the skimmer is hindered in some way which is preventing the bubbles from gathering enough of it to form a stable head. Either that, or your water level is just set too low. Perhaps a picture is in order, or better yet, a video.

Your tank, although a 450 w/ 30 fish (what TYPES of fish matters... 30 chromis or 30 large tangs, not to mention how often you feed), is mature. Mature tanks have a tendency to drop off in skimmate production. Simply put, the corals are all filtering the water for food, having grown in, and the bacteria have set up shop at that point to be at peak efficiency. Sometimes adding a larger skimmer doesnt mean you are going to get more out... sometimes a more efficient skimmer (smaller, yet can remove more of whats in the water) is the other way. You could see what happens if you try 'stripping' the water for a week... dose 20-30ml of everclear per day for about a week and see if your skimmate production doesnt spike (then stop... you go too far with it and you can easily overskim).

Otherwise, it could be the skimmer. Sometimes all that water fow and turbulence does nothing more than prevent the bubbles from attracting enough on their surface to form a stable head. Making the skimmer taller is one way to extend this contact time and reduce turvbulence, but there are other ways. Its alot like blowing bubbles... if you blow too hard, the film just pops... if there isnt enough soap in the water, the film pops on its own. If a skimmer is too turbulent, all that air could just be spinning wheels. It reminds me of a guy at the zeovit forums and here... gqjeff... he has a large well established tank, and his bubbleking just stopped working after years and years. It just couldnt keep up a stable foam head. Then he tried a KZ revolution, and although he first chalked it up to the cone shape and injection method, after some time I think he also realized that maybe part of it also had to do with the KZ being about 1/4 the air intake and 1/4 the size of the Bubbleking... simply put, as his large tank got older and older, there was less and less left for the skimmer.

In which case... start feeding more... alot more. Skunk that thing up and make your corals extend for food and your fish fatter than Boss-Hog. Chances are your corals are large colonies by now and could use more, and so could the fish.

The ethanol thing is a pretty good way to see if its your skimmer or the tank. If you try to strip it, and nothing improves (it should make 2x as much skimmate and much darker), then your tank just doenst make enough. The ethanol dosing boosts the carbon on hand so that a bacteria bloom takes place, and these bacteria absorb organics in the water, often ones that arent skimmable... but, the bacteria are skimmable. A side effect is that this bacterial plankton is also food for small mouth SPS (montis for instance), which cant feed on larger plankton. Check the vodka/ethanol dosing threads for more info on these methods. but yeah... you CAN overskim a tank. Its when your skimmer strips the water to either the point that the skimmer cant skim anymore, or the corals start starving.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12459355#post12459355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by klasiksb
I guess my point really is, something inside that skimmer should change if there were a sudden reduction of air which, from what your saying, would happen when hooking up the 5" air meter, which there is none. If I close my air valve some, there is an obvious change.

Well, the foam head would go down perhaps... but that depends on how the skimmer is doing. If its dry enough you may not even notice much since the bubbles will just sit there. A drop of 500lph or something... from 1500lph to 2000lph isnt exactly something you can tell with your eyes that easily... you know?
 
Been there, done that with the vodka/sugar dosing. It took nitrates down and things then starved IMO. Mushrooms, Clams looked unhealthy and lightly colored (mild bleaching) strange algae growth (may have happened anyway) and not the best coraline algae growth either. Since stopping the Vodka/sugar I have tried to manage things better, keeping detritus stirred up in the sump better and agressive skimming, and bought some more astreas and blueleg hermits (#75 each for the strange algae). Things actually are doing better than ever now. I feed once or twice a day. Typical days feeding for entire day is a 4 x 3 inch piece of nori, cube of mysis, 1/2 cube krill or squid, 30-40 small pellets of a mix of Formula 1 and 2, 10-15 medium sized pellets mix of Formula 1 and 2, and 1 cube of brine shrimp enriched every other day. Nitrates have stablized at just measurable 0.2.

For kicks, I added an ASM g1x to the sump about 2 weeks ago. It is my most productive, stinkiest skimmer and started skimming in 6 hours.

I also just bought a MSX-300 for the sump, since I am only running 350-450 gph thru the Orca and have about 600 gallons. I thought the Orca might need a little more help. The MSX is still breaking in and has not done much yet accept keep my ph and ORP abit higher.
If I can get the MSX 300 to skim well and like it, I may sell the Orca 250 or keep all 3 and get more anthias.

I have 18 anthias, 2.5 to 4 inches, a 2 yr old yellow tang, chevron tang, about 8 inch Naso, mature blue throat trigger, pair of clowns, pair of gobies, x-mas wrasse and radiant wrasse.

I wanted my tank to mature slowly and wasnt sure what exactly I wanted to do. Finally started adding SPS only about 6-8 months ago. I think they are helping alot in keeping the nitrates more stable and I no longer need macroalgae in the fuge to help with nitrates, next I would like to take the phosban off and see how things go.
 
Yeah, sounds like you dont have a very high bioload and your tank is boarderline nutrient starved as it is... you have 150 gallons of fish and corals there on a well-broken in tank, no wonder. More and more skimming isnt going to do much but give each skimmer a harder time.

That little bit of nitrates, if you want to take care of it, might be best handled by a few clams. Small levels like that they can soak up all together, esp the faster growing ones like a gigas or squamosa.
 
I have 3 Crocea clams, all about 4 inches. Measured nitrates again, they are now 0.2, maybe 0.5. Can't seem to get them to zero and keep them there. I really dont want to go back to vodka, sugar dosing. They seem to be creeping up very slowly. Sand bed in tank is 1 to 4 inches. The thing with the Orca 250 is that it has never pulled out alot of skimmate, unless set very high. I guess its the low bioload then, 150 gallons of fish and coral, you say, I'll keep that in mind. Its seems to be a very good dry skimmer for me. For my system the 8 inch riser is too high, the 5 inch riser on the MSX seems better suited to me with the 2 sicce mesh pumps, which started showing signs of life tonight.
 
DSB's can sometimes produce more nitrates than they handle... although you mention 1 to 4 inches... not a DSB so much as just rolling hills. What is the sand made up of? Crushed Coral?
 
The sand is a mix of AragAlive Fiji pink and Aragamax. I think my nitrates have been leaching from my live rock. I special ordered 6 boulder sized pieces 70-85 pounds each and they ended up being very thick and dense Fiji rock. This was Sept 2005. Gave them 6 months to cure, but I think they have been the source all along.

Back to the skimmer. To clarify, I like to have the bubbles breaking lower in the skimmer neck because it does give me the nicest thick foam head. It just gets to thick and heavy too fast, so it cant climb the 8 inches to skim over the top, it makes it eventually but completely dry, and alot of mud formation in the top 4 inches. This is why I believe the riser is too tall, or it needs more air draw. If you look at the pictures Premium provides for the 200, it functions just the opposite of the 250. You have to have the bubbles breaking very low or it would skim way too wet. Even set low it skims wet.
 
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Photo of where I would like to run the Orca 250. The dirt (mud) forming is 4 inches up the riser, but that leaves 4 inches to go. I have medium sized bubbles entering the riser with very little turbulence forming nice foam.. Good transition bubbles from small in the skimmer body then medium in the riser to large stable bubbles and foam.

IMG_1730.jpg
 
As you raise the water level to get skimmate in the cup you gradually lose the transition bubbles until small bubbles are entering the riser creating turbulence, uneven air flow through the venturi and much less productive skimming. Leading some to believe they need to buy a 5 inch extension for the riser. When the riser is already too high for the 60-65 SCFH.
 
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