RocketEngineer's 75g/125g Setup

I definately need a new camera; 66 pictures and only 4 good ones. For now, I will just have to keep shooting them and hope for the best.

Kole Tang pictures as promised:
KoleTang1.jpg

KoleTang2.jpg

KoleTang3.jpg

KoleTang4.jpg


And a decent pic of the Yellow Wrasse:
WrasseClown.jpg


Enjoy.
 
Just read the whole thread Love the detail. A couple of questions, What is the name of the red square( 90). Second how did you mount the American DJ power strip?
 
reeferbro0622,
I have no idea. I just know that this one was a challenge to catch.

moondoggy4,
They are called clamping squares: http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/Pr...18633&ss=21481453-af6d-4d47-b700-7849fd3c6105
They were a definate live saver as we used them to glue the structure together as well as glue the doors and panels together. When making the doors, we glued opposite corners together then glued the two halves together with the panel in place. It worked quite well.

RocketEngineer
 
Pretty cool build so far. I definitely like the stand too, I just wish I woulda built mine to be able to handle a future upgrade lol.

As far as flatworms go, I also have a bunch in the sump and I also have a yellow coris wrasse that keeps the DT in check.

So far so good. :)
 
Flems,
Thanks, it wasn't exactly planned that way but it did work out.

A few new pics:

Halemida:
004-1.jpg


The firefish decided to pose:
025.jpg


And with the flash, you can really see the markings on the kole tang:
030.jpg
 
Just another thought on clamping squares. I used shelf backets. They are not always square, but I adjusted them with some post it notes and they worked very well for clamping. A little cheaper and easier to get (home depot). Although I might have been easier clamping on the outide in a few cases.
 
TheFishMan65,
My father picked them up because they let you clamp the corner either way, placing the square inside or outside the corner. I don't know of any shelf brackets that could do that :D.

footballdude2k3,
Thanks.

Today I broke down and went on a spending spree at lowes. $13 for a 4' fluorescent fixture. Yup, big spender. I gutted the second 4' fixture from my old setup, cut out all the ribs, and mounted the new fixture into the shell of the old one. Now I have two fixtures on the tank. Definately looks better and the pictures came out more true to life.

RocketEngineer
 
It would be hard to get the shelf bracket on the outside - as I aid above that might have helped. However, I wa able to get a 16x20 bracket for about $10. I liked the larger spread since leverge was increased. I also feel that a larger triangle is easier to work with.
 
TheFishMan65,
Its a case of whatever works. If a $10 piece will do the job, no reason to spend the extra money. In this case, my father decided he wanted one that would work either way so he bought the professional version. If I were only building one project, I may have done just what you did. More than one way to do the job right.

RocketEngineer
 
Alright, I have a couple of questions for the folks out there:

1) When you start dosing kalkwasser (limewater) did you gradually work up to saturated levels? I finally found Mrs. Wage's Pickling Lime locally and would like to start dosing to get the coralline going and get the tank ready for introducing som LPS corals.

2) I currently have 4X 40W normal fluorescent lights. Is this enough to grow LPS corals or am I going to have to wait until I can get my T5 setup into play?

Suggestions and comments are always appreciated.

RocketEngineer
 
If I'm not mistaken you dose Limewater to get the PH up... so if your PH is in the right spot you shouldn't need to dose it... I would test your PH and your calcium If they are good then you don't need to dose yet.

There are some LPS that need almost no light but there are some that need a ton... LPS is a broad assortment so I would say pick them as they go... I would recommend getting your T5's first.
 
Greenmaster,
I hope to get some new test kits tomorrow. I had been using dip strips from my freshwater tank but at this point I need something a lot more accurate. My hope with the limewater is to feed the coralline and halimeda before upgrading the lights. It may be I dose small amounts until I get the lighting in place and than gradually increase my dosage as demands change.

RocketEngineer
 
You might be better to get just a calcium that doesn't affect PH... you really shouldn't add anything until you know you need it... if you have enough calcium and the PH is good then all adding limewater will do is increase your calcium (and having high calcium isn't that bad of a thing but it's not good...) and increase your PH... if your PH gets too high your fish will die.... I still highly recommend getting your test kits before you start adding anything.
 
Greenmaster,
If you read up on limewater, it adds both the carbonate and calcium ions in the same ratio that they are used up. It is actually one of the most balanced methods I have found. While it will increase the pH in my tank, being in an enclosed house the tank pH has always been on the low side. I have every intention of getting my test kits first. I have a lot of time and effort into this thing and there is no way I'm going to risk it over not having a $30 test kit.

I finally got my hands on an IR thermometer and measured the temperature of the tank. After a bunch of readings all over the tank and sump, I figure the controller was at least 2 degrees low :mad2:. SO, I adjusted the calibration on the controller to be about 1 degree below what the glass thermometer was reading. Very annoying as the controller has turned the heaters on several times over the summer and they didn't need to be on.

Live and learn.

RocketEngineer
 
Did a water change last night and removed a wad of cheato from the refugium as it was working its way over the baffle.

Before:
Refugium003.jpg


After:
Refugium006.jpg


And what came out:
Refugium009.jpg


Not bad for one month's growth.
 
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