SC Aquariums Owners Thread

acer said:
"tex" - Regarding the shipping/delivery - my tank was lift gated to street in front of my driveway from back of truck , then the driver used a pallet mover to put the 2 pallets in the garage for me after I inspected the contents. He had to wait for me to inspect - so I tipped him. I could not get info on how that would be done- I think it is individual based on driver/truck. I had a few moving dolly's ready to go - but did not have to use them.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I think this is what I will do as well. Have a pallet mover ready in case they do not move the tank into the garage. How long did you take to inspect the tank/stand and how thorough were you? Great idea to tip.

SC
 
I opened and removed all cardboard. So, I could see the products and inspect. Of coarse, I did not notice that there was no internal trim on the canopy - LOL. I was looking for glass cracks/chips, wood blemishes, etc.
 
acer said:
I opened and removed all cardboard. So, I could see the products and inspect. Of coarse, I did not notice that there was no internal trim on the canopy - LOL. I was looking for glass cracks/chips, wood blemishes, etc.
Click to expand...

Much appreciated
 
have a 66 gallon tank brought the whole package only keeping the tank replacing everything else cabinet sump pumps and skimmer everything is cheap waste of money
 
"Acer" thanks for the info. I removed the bulkheads that came along with the tank and compared them to a couple of bulkheads i bought from BRS about a year ago. The 3 on the right are from my SCA tank.

There is a definite difference in how they look, feel and how a piece plumbing fit into them. Looks like I need to order 1 more 1" bulkhead.The flange is bigger as well.

Here are some pics of my stand construction so far:




I get just a few hours at a time to work on it. Its been like christmas in july and August with packages coming every few days...
This stand will be nothing like my last one which was more modern and sleek. This one will be more rustic to match my office.
Equipment Tease:
 
looking good- I do not have the skills or tools to make a stand from scratch. The best I did was refurbish a few cabinets and a old 75 gallon stand which is for my downstairs area where the 40 breeder sump and 75 gallon refugium will be placed.
 
So now the bulkheads from BRS they are ABS is that correct? And is everybody Plumbing their overflow section of the tank with abs because of the black? I'm just noticing a lot of PVC especially under the tank. Is ABS not a good option?

Thnx

John
 
SCA sump heater placement?

SCA sump heater placement?

For everybody utilizing the provided SCA sump, where should the heater be placed?

The sump is divided into thirds and the first third is divided in half for the return sock and the protein skimmer. The second third I'm using as the fuge and the final third is the return pump.

I currently have the 300 watt heater in the fuge but I'm worried about frying the little pods and macros, that heater cooks when it's on. I would like to move it into the third where the return pump is. LFS said to keep it in the fuge compartment, during an emergency that is the only part of the sump which will maintain a consistent water level.

Any advice?
 
DO NOT use a heater without some type of controller = Ranco, etc. If a heater sticks on - it will fry/cook your tank. Always better to use 2 small heaters rather than one large heater. I don't know what type of heater comes with the SCA setup - but hopefully for a 300 watt heater it is a 75+ gallon setup and your pushing over 1000 GPH thru the sump. If it is a submersible - then angle it in the bottom part/front of the refugium - the flow of water over it will diffuse the temp variances and not bother the pods. If it is not submersible - by a different heater - or 2. If you put it in the return pump area and water levels get too low it will be exposed to air and overheat and it could melt the return pump/hoses,etc.
 
So while I have bulkheads on the mind, why wouldn't one choose a threaded bulk head on both ends wet side and dry side? I did this on may last reef tank and was able to disassemble as needed with out cutting. Is there a specific reason?or is this preference?
 
T8T said:
So while I have bulkheads on the mind, why wouldn't one choose a threaded bulk head on both ends wet side and dry side? I did this on may last reef tank and was able to disassemble as needed with out cutting. Is there a specific reason?or is this preference?
Click to expand...

From my experience this is preference only. I've always trusted a glued fitting Vs a threaded fitting. If you use unions you'll be able to break down the plumbing.
 
acer said:
DO NOT use a heater without some type of controller = Ranco, etc. If a heater sticks on - it will fry/cook your tank. Always better to use 2 small heaters rather than one large heater. I don't know what type of heater comes with the SCA setup - but hopefully for a 300 watt heater it is a 75+ gallon setup and your pushing over 1000 GPH thru the sump. If it is a submersible - then angle it in the bottom part/front of the refugium - the flow of water over it will diffuse the temp variances and not bother the pods. If it is not submersible - by a different heater - or 2. If you put it in the return pump area and water levels get too low it will be exposed to air and overheat and it could melt the return pump/hoses,etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice acer
 
T8T said:
So while I have bulkheads on the mind, why wouldn't one choose a threaded bulk head on both ends wet side and dry side? I did this on may last reef tank and was able to disassemble as needed with out cutting. Is there a specific reason?or is this preference?
Click to expand...

I don't glue inside the overflow so I merely pull a pipe to drain overflow completely if needed. ON the stand side I use unions or union valves so I can merely unscrew to swap out plumbing as needed. I do not like threaded fittings under the tank. Sure I can use thread sealer but you stil have to worry about "room" to unscrew and such. IMHO unions are the preferred method for this and MUCH better to use.
 
madphill said:
Hey, everyone. I just got the 150 starphire from SC Aquariums and I'm having trouble making sense of the plumbing. Here is a photo of the included plumbing.

@Acer told me there was a guide on here somewhere but I can't find it?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/acb1u2388jlx0ty/2016-08-06 19.27.35.jpg?dl=0
Click to expand...

That plumbing is for a durso. I would pitch most of it and get yourself some PVC to do it right. Look up http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/
 
I guess I'm annoyed because the listing for the product said "all plumbing included" and it doesn't seem like that is the case so far. Your profile image says it all. I mean, it was a PNP system after all so I'd like to use what I got ideally.
 
madphill said:
I guess I'm annoyed because the listing for the product said "all plumbing included" and it doesn't seem like that is the case so far. Your profile image says it all. I mean, it was a PNP system after all so I'd like to use what I got ideally.
Click to expand...

The system is a plug and play, but most of us will have preferences to meet our specific needs for sumps and overflows.
I don't think any one manufacturer is going to come out w/ a single PNP choice that will make everyone happy.
Most of us end up customizing our systems at some point
 
madphill said:
I guess I'm annoyed because the listing for the product said "all plumbing included" and it doesn't seem like that is the case so far. Your profile image says it all. I mean, it was a PNP system after all so I'd like to use what I got ideally.
Click to expand...

I understand, however, the plumbing included will work. Most of us prefer either the herbie or beananimal, and I also recommend this. They are both safer and arguably quieter than the durso. The plumbing will not be terribly expensive, and to be fair Steve has done a good job of listening and including better plumbing over the last several months. Personally, I like more of a skeleton system (tank/stand/protein skimmer) and then I can fine tune the rest.
 
T8T said:
"Acer" thanks for the info. I removed the bulkheads that came along with the tank and compared them to a couple of bulkheads i bought from BRS about a year ago. The 3 on the right are from my SCA tank.

There is a definite difference in how they look, feel and how a piece plumbing fit into them. Looks like I need to order 1 more 1" bulkhead.The flange is bigger as well.

Here are some pics of my stand construction so far:




I get just a few hours at a time to work on it. Its been like christmas in july and August with packages coming every few days...
This stand will be nothing like my last one which was more modern and sleek. This one will be more rustic to match my office.
Equipment Tease:
Click to expand...


nice stand bud. really like it have a blue print you can share? not that i need another tank but just in case i build a stand for my no nSC 20L haha

gotta love xmass in july and aug. :D
 
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