Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[gem]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14466615#post14466615 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by teesquare
I must have not understood something in Ginger's question - is this an external or internal box that you are attaching?
If it is internal - Meuser is correct.
But if you are talking about an exterior box - I would not trust silicone on acrylic. It is not intended for this use, and it will fail you.
T

It's an internal overflow box. I considered having glass cut for the overflow and just covering it with the acryllic with the teeth extending above the glass. Just the expense outwieghed the benefit. Thanks for the clarifications.....gonna give 'er a shot....worst case...doesn't hold and I go to plan 2- glass.

As for the John Guest fitting....my issue in finding it is the size or maybe the way it's worded on the exploded diagram.....not finding that one. Or maybe it's just cuz I'm a chick.....How many dang John Guest fittings are there anyway???

Amazing...while looking for an example of what's confused me...I think I found it!! Is this it???
http://www.rosystems.com/mm5/mercha...&Product_Code=O-0420615&Category_Code=JGMANPT

 

[teesquare]

If you are building a 5 sided box, why not just use acrylic cement ( I like Weld-On #3, then a bead of #16 as a "fillet" in the corners and along all the seams) to build the acrylic box?
It is much faster to build with, and stronger than silicone. You should use plenty of silicone where the bulkheads penetrate the tank.
T

 

[teesquare]

Ginger:
"John Guest fitting" is sort of a mis-nomer. John Guest (company) makes a huge variety of fittings.
The aspect of their fittings that has become synonomous with their name is like a Chinese finger toy. You push the pipe in, but unless you know how - you cannot pull it out. It seals as well when you push it in. Search on-line for the pieces you need, and write down the John Guest part numbers, and most hardware stores, or plumbing supply houses should be able to order them if not in stock.
Just a caution - I don't think the design intent of this overflow system benefits at all from having teeth on the weir. It will be noisier, and reduce the flow potential.

 

[rguyler]

I meant I will use silicon between the box and tank glass, not the build of the box itself. I used PVC sheet since I had some lying around so I used PVC glue to put everything together. I thought the question was along the lines of supporting the box/overflow but I guess in some cases with just a 2-piece unit glued directly to the tank glass that it could be one and the same.

 

[gem]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14467167#post14467167 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by teesquare
Ginger:
"John Guest fitting" is sort of a mis-nomer. John Guest (company) makes a huge variety of fittings.
The aspect of their fittings that has become synonomous with their name is like a Chinese finger toy. You push the pipe in, but unless you know how - you cannot pull it out. It seals as well when you push it in. Search on-line for the pieces you need, and write down the John Guest part numbers, and most hardware stores, or plumbing supply houses should be able to order them if not in stock.
Just a caution - I don't think the design intent of this overflow system benefits at all from having teeth on the weir. It will be noisier, and reduce the flow potential.

That I learned recently. "John guest" is the brand of fitting. I think I know what I need now. Thanks.

Please elaborate on the teeth. Should an overflow box not have teeth as a surface skimmer? Should the water just cascade over flat acryllic?

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14466430#post14466430 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rguyler
Bean, have you found that lowering the siphon standpipe below the open and emergency pipes provides a specific benefit? I've seen this mentioned but must have missed the underlying reason for doing so.

Also, how much benefit do you think you are getting by using 1.5" pipe even though you are using 1" bulkheads? Do you really believe it's much of a performance boost over running 1" all the way?

Just asking asking your valued opinion... ;-)

Also Bean, thanks a million for your informative posts!

Lowering the siphon standpipe 1/2" or so helps to ensure that it kicks in first. It is not a requirement, but some people have had trouble due to other variables. It just takes a potential variable out of the equation.

The 1.5" pipe attached to a 1" bulkhead will flow more than a 1" pipe attached to a 1" bulkhead... it is simple matter of friction.

The 1.5" open channel allows much greater cross section for air, this allowing the setup to flow at much higher volumes without creating a partial siphon and/or turbulent flow.

 

[rguyler]

For better or worse I made teeth on my overflow using a router.

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14467049#post14467049 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gem
As for the John Guest fitting....my issue in finding it is the size or maybe the way it's worded on the exploded diagram.....not finding that one. Or maybe it's just cuz I'm a chick.....How many dang John Guest fittings are there anyway???

Amazing...while looking for an example of what's confused me...I think I found it!! Is this it???
http://www.rosystems.com/mm5/mercha...&Product_Code=O-0420615&Category_Code=JGMANPT

I am answering ONLY because your a chic (I dig chics)...

Yes that is the correct fitting.

Being a chic also got you a secret shopper...

The local Lowe's in Roseville stocks the Watts brand. I linked to the 1/2" fitting.. but the Store will have others in stock.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=230919-18701-L-610&lpage=none

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14468040#post14468040 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rguyler
For better or worse I made teeth on my overflow using a router.

Teeth greatly impede surface skimming. That said, it really depends on the livestock, linear overflow length and flowrate. Small overflow with high flow will tend to allow too many fish to take the trip to the sump. Teeth help to prevent that, but (again) severely limit the surface skimming. The answer? A longer overflow, of course.

 

[gem]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14468142#post14468142 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Teeth greatly impede surface skimming. That said, it really depends on the livestock, linear overflow length and flowrate. Small overflow with high flow will tend to allow too many fish to take the trip to the sump. Teeth help to prevent that, but (again) severely limit the surface skimming. The answer? A longer overflow, of course.

If the overflow is 59 inches long...ie:coast to coast on a 110 gal...teeth or no teeth? I can still rescue my acryllic!

Thanks for the "secret shopper" Bean! I will head to Lowe's first thing tomorrow!
You know how to make a chic happy! LOL

 

[BeanAnimal]

How many GPH do you plan on putting through the sump? What kind of livestock?

 

[teesquare]

Bean:
Has anyone tried using DLS rather than "teeth" on an overflow? For those that need it. Less restrictive, and easily removed and cleaned.......
T

 

[gem]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14475179#post14475179 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
How many GPH do you plan on putting through the sump? What kind of livestock?

Well.....the flow rate on my return pump (Ocean runner 3500) is 900 gph.

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14475581#post14475581 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gem
Well.....the flow rate on my return pump (Ocean runner 3500) is 900 gph.

No teeth

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14475240#post14475240 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by teesquare
Bean:
Has anyone tried using DLS rather than "teeth" on an overflow? For those that need it. Less restrictive, and easily removed and cleaned.......
T

I played around with some needlepoint screen and other stuff early on. It all gets crap stuck in it and has to be cleaned. I don't like cleaning stuff

I also built a "cover" that sat about 3/8" above the edge of the weir. It a "slot" that snails and fish could not get through. I got tired of fidling with it and it was in the way of my OM returns... Next time I will plan ahead for it but for now the overlfow is open to whatever wants to explore it.

 

[gem]

Thanks Bean!

 

[Rizup]

I hate to ask this since I haven't read through the whole thread with the split and all, but is it possible to put this system together on an Oceanic tech tank? I have four 1" bulkheads on the bottom of the tank, so I was thinking that I could run two siphons, one open channel, and one emergency. I currently use 1.25" pipe in the overflow for two Gurgle Busters, but I think I could make some modified Durso's for this, or am I better off with the Herbie method? I had already thought about plumbing returns over the back and running all four bulkheads as drains, but I am looking to silence the drains if possible. Right now the drains make some noise keeping up with my Snapper return pump. Thanks for the input and help.

Mike

 

[reefer_man_mike]

Bean,

I am currently setting up a 120 and have had holes drilled in my tank for my over flow and CL. But only today did i find out about your creation. I was wondering if its still possible to alter my design to perhaps drill more holes to accommodate the other 2 stand pipes. I was thinking to myself how many holes can a tank take before its to much. Then i saw that picture a couple pages back with the tank with 11 holes in the back glass.

My tank is made with 1/2" glass with a single center brace. I have 3 holes in the back glass which are 2.5" or 2.75" what ever a 1.5" bulk head takes.


My next question is, i read in the thread that you can not feed the skimmer with this set up as it is asking for trouble. How about feeding my fuge in my sump is this possible still?

here is a picture of my tank, i have to keep the tank as close to the wall as possible that's the reason for the standpipe being on an angle.

My sump. The front i corner in the fuge.

 

[brackishdude]

I'm very happy with the way I've done it. Put a narrow box all alont the inside, using the big and little holes near the top with no attached plumbing (2.5" instead of just 1.5", plus whatever the little one adds) to drain to a wider outside box. Put your three bulkheads in the bottom of the outside box.

Scroll down to see my pics on these pages


http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=473152&perpage=25&pagenumber=2


and


http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=473152&perpage=25&pagenumber=14

Use one of the lower pipes for your cl intake and the other for sump or cl return, with the other going over the back.

 

[reefer_man_mike]

is that possible. Is there any problems with doing that?