Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[ReefSparky]

BeAn. . great design. I appreciate what you've done here.

I'll be utilizing this design on a new 20 gallon cube (17" x 17" x 17"). First, would it be ill advised to use 1" pipes down to the sump; considering the lower turnover expected with a smaller tank/pump (900 GPH)? If necessary, I could construct the open channel from 1.5", since I'm using 1.5" sanitary tees anyway.

Secondly, I'm using an internal coast to coast style overflow, fabricated from glass I'll be cutting. On a previous post I noticed a photo of such an overflow where the user didn't utilize straining teeth on the overflow wall. That would be very convenient! Would that be asking for trouble? I had some advice to perhaps cut teeth into that plastic trim used in the past at the back of the tank, attached to glass covers to close the gaps where pipes entered/exited the rear. I'd rather not stick that trim on top of a glass wall. It would be an eyesore, and if teeth aren't really needed, then all the better--

What are your thoughts on this?

Thank you again.

 

[scott26]

BeAn. . great design. I appreciate what you've done here.

I'll be utilizing this design on a new 20 gallon cube (17" x 17" x 17"). First, would it be ill advised to use 1" pipes down to the sump; considering the lower turnover expected with a smaller tank/pump (900 GPH)? If necessary, I could construct the open channel from 1.5", since I'm using 1.5" sanitary tees anyway.

With such a small tank you really shouldn't need 1.5" the 1" should be fine all the way through. If you go to bean's site you will see that the 1" should be able to handle what you are going to be abel to put through it. 900 GPH through your sump or total system volume 900 for a 20 gallon tank is ALOT.

Secondly, I'm using an internal coast to coast style overflow, fabricated from glass I'll be cutting. On a previous post I noticed a photo of such an overflow where the user didn't utilize straining teeth on the overflow wall. That would be very convenient! Would that be asking for trouble? I had some advice to perhaps cut teeth into that plastic trim used in the past at the back of the tank, attached to glass covers to close the gaps where pipes entered/exited the rear. I'd rather not stick that trim on top of a glass wall. It would be an eyesore, and if teeth aren't really needed, then all the better--

What are your thoughts on this?

You dont need the teeth for the overflow it was stated back quite a few pages ago that you don't really need them because of all the saftey features in the system what you can do is either cut teeth in your 90's or put some egg crate around the 90's to keep critters out even though it shouldn't be a problem.

Thank you again.

Glad to see you found your way over here Sparky and to the bean system.

 

[knight2255]

well, yes and no. There are a couple options, though putting a herbie in one overflow, and blocking off the other would be a little simpler.

The overflows can be bridged, with a narrow weir, put the siphon in one overflow box, the open channel in the other, the emergency in one, and the return in the other.

Another option, is to put the siphon and open channel in one overflow box, and the return and dry emergency in the other. Water would need to be kept out of the second overflow, as there would be no water movement inside, and it would stagnate.

The grand plan would be to remove the corner overflows, plug the holes, and install a coast to coast. Drill and plumb out the back of the tank.

Jim

Right now my tank doesn't have overflows. However, I want to go the dual corner overflow route so that I can turn the background of the tank into a 3d shadowbox, instead of painting the back of the tank the typical black color. Would the layout below work? I really have no idea on how low below the top of the glass the water line should be, but I followed the minimum glass drilling equations and this would be the smallest footprint I could squeeze the bulkhead/overflow's into in order to preserve as much background for the shadowbox.

 

[TheFishMan65]

If it is not drilled why not place 3 holes in one corner? You also have a problem. If you have really small boxes the water cascading of the edge will be very hgih. Where as if you have a wide box then the skimming of the water surface is better. bean has a real good description of this on his site.

 

[BeanAnimal]

You have almost no surface skimming.... You have to find a balance between eastethetics and system health. The entire perimeter of the second box takes up tank space but offers no surface skimming.

Why not return over the top and use an Oceans Motions, they are great devices. The emergency does not need a box. Extend the main box with a very shallow shelf the length of the tank. It only needs to be an inch or two deep.

You also need to read the design criteria with regard to the function of the "holes" and the depth of the box. You may be better served by an external box off to the side that is fed by a trough or similar setup.

 

[macchicks]

My holes are drilled and I am getting ready to install the internal overflow. I have the bulkheads and street elbows in place so I can get the position right before installing.

My elbows are just plain I am unable to safely make the slits. I know this is ok.

What I can't find or remember is how much room between the bottom of the elbow and the bottom of the overflow?

75 gallon 1 inch throughout.

While I am at it when I silicone the overflow in does it matter if I silicone it on the inside or the outside of the box?

 

[RocketSurgeon]

I thought I read somewhere that at least .25" was required. I have over 2" due to cutting my glass pieces before drilling holes and installing the elbows. I haven't noticed any ill effect yet. If I only had .25", I don't think I would have enough room to remove the elbow and bulkhead to replace gasket if required at a later date.

 

[ReefSparky]

Thanks for responding, Scott. It's 900 GPH at 0 head, at 4' it'll be 600 GPH. 24x turnover rate. I'll be plumbing the return through the overflow, and using 3/4" LocLine split. This will be a softy only tank. I'm going to see if I can forego powerheads and use my return for circulation. I have the PHs if needed, but I'll check and see. I'm getting closer.

So 1" it is then. I've decided to go with just a piece of glass for the vertical pane of the overflow--no teeth. I recall the photo, but I don't recall reading any conversation about it. I'm thinking it'll be fine. There's only 3/8" under the downturned elbow to the glass, and with this design, I'm willing to "take the chance."

I think I have a better chance of winning the lottery two weeks in a row than getting a flood with one main siphon and two backups.

 

[reefcrazyme]

These are crazy overflow boxes.

 

[larryfl1]

hey everyone...

i am planning for a super dart for return pump... somewhere around 2-3 thousand gph...

i was originally planning for 3 1.5" bulkheads but would like to reduce outside box smaller...

can i go smaller safely?

also if my flow is lower then expected is there any downside to the pipe oversized to 1.5 bulkhead? will the full siphon still create???

 

[Wrench]

I got mine all tuned up and working gooooooooood. Man it's nice having a SILENT tank! I wanted to share a photo of my overflow box in hopes that it will help someone down the road. When doing my research, I couldn't find any pics of this system inside an internal overflow box.

Once critical aspect of keeping this thing silent for me has been to get the height of the water inside the overflow box absolutely perfect. Too low and the water falling into the box would splash. Too high and it would not be failsafe.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Once critical aspect of keeping this thing silent for me has been to get the height of the water inside the overflow box absolutely perfect. Too low and the water falling into the box would splash.

The teeth are what causes the noise if the water is too low. If it was a flat weir, the water would silently cascade over

 

[teesquare]

All to oftern in this thread - I see that folks do not understand that weirs with teeth are a problem - not a problem solver:fun4:

Fish will inherently avoid going over the smooth top weir ( if they are healthy) simply because they sense the change in pressure as they approach it.

A toothed weir will never remain steady, because of the potential of builup of algaes - even coraline algaes- in the gaps between the teeth.

At 1'' below the bottom of the euro-bracing, I have run 2 Hmmerheads full blast and the system remained silent, and balanced. This is with 1-1/2'' fittings in the overflow box, and 2'' piping down to the sump.

T

 

[tinkerman]

I have been running this system for a year now and plan on a tear down and rebuild. I have one thing I want to change while doing so. I would like info on external boxs with painted backs and how to keep the box on and will this work for the 3 holes in the tank to let water flow into the new box on the back of the tank? Thanks for any help.

 

[Wrench]

Ah well. Next tank will have a smooth weir I guess. That's actually just an acrylic cover for the overflow box. I suppose I could make another one minus the teeth....

 

[macchicks]

RS Thank you for the response and the picture. I have my overflow attached now. I have asked my husband to cut the elbows down as I was just shy of 1/4 and I did not want to lower the overflow anymore.

Sunday I will run the plumbing hopefully and Have water in it by Monday. There is a slim chance I will get delayed. The container I bought for the sump looks to be just a hair to big. But I have a little room to move things so hoping.

 

[uncleof6]

I have been running this system for a year now and plan on a tear down and rebuild. I have one thing I want to change while doing so. I would like info on external boxs with painted backs and how to keep the box on and will this work for the 3 holes in the tank to let water flow into the new box on the back of the tank? Thanks for any help.

Yes it will work, but you want to use a narrow internal weir, in front of the hole, to keep the surface skimming. If you flip back some pages in this thread, i think the basic design is posted.

Jim

 

[larryfl1]

hey everyone...

i am planning for a super dart for return pump... somewhere around 2-3 thousand gph...

i was originally planning for (3) 1.5" bulkheads but would like to reduce outside box smaller if possible...

can i go smaller on the bulkheads/lines safely? will 1" cover me safely?

also if my flow is lower then expected is there any downside to the pipe oversized to 1.5 bulkhead? will the full siphon still create???


as of now i am thinking to do an external overflow with the bean animal setup... the tank will be 8 ft long... if i go full external how long does the weir and box need to be? i am leaning away from a cost to coast to keep the inside of the tank as clean looking as possible...

 

[akindbro4u]

hey everyone...

i am planning for a super dart for return pump... somewhere around 2-3 thousand gph...

i was originally planning for (3) 1.5" bulkheads but would like to reduce outside box smaller if possible...

can i go smaller on the bulkheads/lines safely? will 1" cover me safely?

also if my flow is lower then expected is there any downside to the pipe oversized to 1.5 bulkhead? will the full siphon still create???


as of now i am thinking to do an external overflow with the bean animal setup... the tank will be 8 ft long... if i go full external how long does the weir and box need to be? i am leaning away from a cost to coast to keep the inside of the tank as clean looking as possible...

I run about 700gph through 1.5" drains with no problems.

 

[tinkerman]

Thank you uncleof6. Now what about siliconing the external box to the back of the tank which has paint. My brother tried painting the inside of his box on an internal and the paint all peeled off and don't want this to happen and have the box fall off and have a flood. I have seen a few builds where they have used black acrylic to hide the plumbing but don't want to see a silicone line as the boxs will be different sizes.