Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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RocketSurgeon
New member
Not as long as you don't have an EMERGENCY.
I have all 3 drains. I currently only use the siphon except at startups. The open channel stays dry. With the return pump I'm using, I don't think the emergency will ever see water unless I purposely close off both the other drains. With this said, I still have it. For the EMERGENCY.
Go ahead and do a search of who has had water on the floor. You'll want the EMERGENCY drain.
Many have used a single 1" or 1.25" drain for years and have not had a problem.
The BeanAnimal design was built upon safety. The open drain has and EMERGENCY drain. Similar to carrying 2 spare tires. Will you ever NEED the second spare, hopefully not, but you have it anyway.
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sunsetSPS
New member
thanks for reply. If so even I just add one siphon it would be much safer than just one durso standpipe as it is right now, even the siphon got stuck completely the durso will handle the water as it is right now. Believe or not I don't think that many people if not any would have "emergency" pipe when they are using durso standpipe.
RocketSurgeon
New member
And I'm the only person I know that carries two spare tires, and a portable 12v air compressor for my truck.
sunsetSPS
New member
Agree. As it described, the second pipe (with tube) is used to regulate the level of water in the overflow box (so in sump), little water flowing through this pipe all the time is an ideal condition. The third one (emergency) is not in used in normal operation and fully dedicated for "EMERGENCY" only.
This seems to be solution for noise of overflow water rushing into the sump, I still have to resolve the noise of waterfall from tank to the overflow box, this is loud too.
This seems to be solution for noise of overflow water rushing into the sump, I still have to resolve the noise of waterfall from tank to the overflow box, this is loud too.
Perhaps some new tires, and a newer truck would solve that dilema?:beer:
JK!!!!!
T
RocketSurgeon
New member
I've been told (more than once) that it is easier to steer if all 4 tires are on the ground instead of in the air! But that is probably left best for another thread entirely.
My water flowing into my overflow is silent. Perhaps you have more flow than linear space allowed.
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TheFishMan65
New member
Or the drop is too large. If so you can adjust the water height with the valve on the siphon. Of course the open and emergency may need to be raised in order to raise the water level.
sunsetSPS
New member
I have Oceanic Tech and their overflow design isn't good. It has a step in the overflow after the teeth and water splashing to that step and falling down with noise. The water level has to be high enough in the overflow box for this noise to be minimal; however, keeping water high in the flow box is hard as I used their overflow box cover and so there is no room to raise the standpipe higher, also having higher level in overflow box would be easy to get into the emergency situation too.
I have a question that I think I know the answer to already but want to make sure it is the right answer. I have 3 1 in bulkheads right now that go into 1 1/2 in on the back of the tank, it is an in tank overflow. I would like to get rid of the in tank and do external and be able to reuse the bulkheads and hole saw I already have. So do I have to use 3/4in elbows and up to 1 in to the sump, or can I use all 1 in and make it bigger below the overflow and down to sump? I'm just not sure where you have to enlarge the pipe to allow for the air space. The y pipe is what is confusing me.
RocketSurgeon
New member
I'm not exactly sure what you are talking about, but the greatest amount of flow is only available through your smallest diameter pipe, similar to a chain is only as strong as the weakest link.
If you enlarge a 1" coupling to 1.5" pipe, you are still restricted to the 1" coupling. I'm not sure you are gaining much.
TheFishMan65
New member
Tinker, i was confused this morning and apparently not the only one. Maybe a picture?
RocketSurgeon
New member
Well I'm glad I broke the ice, 'cause I was beginning to feel real stupid!
geaux xman
New member
I was looking at 1.5" sch 80 bulkheads on BRS, so the holes for 1.5" bulkheads has to be 2.5" drilled??
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-5-sch-bulkhead-slip-x-thread-slip-on-the-flange-head-side.html
I wont be doing the drilling myself. the tank builder will do it.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/1-5-sch-bulkhead-slip-x-thread-slip-on-the-flange-head-side.html
I wont be doing the drilling myself. the tank builder will do it.
You need to ask the seller of the bulkheads about the size of hole. Different brands, etc....( If I were to guess I would say 2-7/8'' in more like it)
But - as a side note, you will gain no benefit from using sch 80. It wil cost you more, and they take more space. We are not dealing with any pressures in this application - so....Why spend the extra?
T
But - as a side note, you will gain no benefit from using sch 80. It wil cost you more, and they take more space. We are not dealing with any pressures in this application - so....Why spend the extra?
T
My overflow box is inside the tank right now and want to make it so it has a weir and box externaly. everything cicled in blue is what I want inside the new overflow. the peices in red are what I am wondering about. The bushing placement before or after bulkhead? The black line is where the bulkhead will be. The valve I use to tweek it now is only open 25% so if the 3/4 version will handle 1000 gph I still have room to upgrade my pump later on. So do I need 3/4 elbow, bushing 1 in tee bulkhead 1 in pipe. Or 1 in elbow, 1 in tee, bulkhead, bushing, 1 1/2 pipe to sump.
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