Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
I just got a new tank and had it drilled in the top corners on each side on the back of the tank. I noticed that most people have their tanks drilled on the bottom or have it pre planned before they had their tank drilled. I wish i knew about this before i bought my tank but its too late now. I have strainers in my bulkheads. Can someone explain how i could run these silent systems with my set up??? I am running an exteral durso type set up...please help?
RocketSurgeon
New member
First, I think we need to know what size holes and how many; along with what size tank.
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225 gallon tank....2 holes....1.5" bulkheads...one on each opposite top corner....no overflows, no skimmers....just strainers in the bulkheads, which leaves a gap between the water and the top of the tank which i really dont like either
TheFishMan65
New member
Build a calfo style internal weir. Then build an external box to hold the Bean Animal design.
Would i need more holes in the tank? My tank is currently up and running and kicking myself that i didnt find out about these quiet systems till everything was done:sad2:
RocketSurgeon
New member
Something similar to this?
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:16&biw=1097&bih=783
RocketSurgeon
New member
My holes are on opposite ends.......would i be able to do anything without building the overflow box and the calfo? I have no idea how i would even do that. I guess my main objective is making my set up quieter....my set up know is a external durso style set up minus the downward elbows in the bulkhead inside of the tank.
geaux xman
New member
Please Help! I'm getting a 150g 60x30x20 rimless from Miracles. Havent started the build yet, so i'm looking for suggestions. Also looking to keep this simple(my 1st tank with an overflow).
I was quoted:
Internal 3 sided rectangular overflow centered on back panel
2 drilled holes
Should I just stick with that? or do 1x 1.5" drain and 2x 3/4" return holes ?
Will an eheim 1262 pump serve my purposes? my sump with be a 40g breeder directly underneath the tank.
Thanks!
I was quoted:
Internal 3 sided rectangular overflow centered on back panel
2 drilled holes
Should I just stick with that? or do 1x 1.5" drain and 2x 3/4" return holes ?
Will an eheim 1262 pump serve my purposes? my sump with be a 40g breeder directly underneath the tank.
Thanks!
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TheFishMan65
New member
revival without building a box I would say you are stuck. With a box you can do a Herbie or Bean.
Geauz, if you use the return as a return then the Herbie is out for you. And how many holes?
- 2 drilled holes
or
- 1x 1.5" drain and 2x 3/4" return holes (which I read as three)
I would look into a Bean design which needs three drain holes and maybe add a fourth for return or come over the top.
Geauz, if you use the return as a return then the Herbie is out for you. And how many holes?
- 2 drilled holes
or
- 1x 1.5" drain and 2x 3/4" return holes (which I read as three)
I would look into a Bean design which needs three drain holes and maybe add a fourth for return or come over the top.
uncleof6
Active member
With the tank running, there is not much that you can do to improve it. The silicone, would not be safe to use with the tank running, and you really should not try to drill a running tank.
For your system, the two holes could be used for returns, an internal "weir" with holes through the back could be put in between the existing holes, then external if wanted for additional plumbing for a siphon system as surgeon suggested, or with a wider internal (front to back) run the standpipes directly out the back of the tank like the original design. But again, you really don't want to try this with the tank up and running.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1310585&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
scbrooks87
New member
Ok, so I got everything up and running, man am I excited! Only one problem, and I'm pretty sure I know what's causing it from reading, I just would like to verify that I'm correct before I go to the hardware store...
My siphon line works perfect, and is setting the level for my open channel, here's where the issue is... My open channel is silent for a few seconds, then I can hear it starting to pull some water, more, more, then ploosh!
I figured maybe change the ratio to take more into the siphon, but when I do that, it ends up flushing the box...
I think this means I need a larger air hole for the open channel yeah? I am using 1.25" pipe for that, and my air line is .25" ID.
The sucking of the water means it's not getting enough air to fill the channel down the center, so it's trying to replace it with more water and creating a partial siphon yeah?
Thanks!
-Scott
My siphon line works perfect, and is setting the level for my open channel, here's where the issue is... My open channel is silent for a few seconds, then I can hear it starting to pull some water, more, more, then ploosh!
I figured maybe change the ratio to take more into the siphon, but when I do that, it ends up flushing the box...
I think this means I need a larger air hole for the open channel yeah? I am using 1.25" pipe for that, and my air line is .25" ID.
The sucking of the water means it's not getting enough air to fill the channel down the center, so it's trying to replace it with more water and creating a partial siphon yeah?
Thanks!
-Scott
uncleof6
Active member
You may want to do some more reading before you go with the setup you mention. The systems we are discussing here are more efficient in terms of performance, than traditional overflow boxes with a couple holes in the bottom. Doing the "traditional" overflow that was quoted will shoehorn you in terms of space for using a siphon system, and 3/4" bulkhead holes will be a bit small for your tank size--even if they are used for returns from the sump.
Since you are having a custom tank built, you have a blank canvas, and it would be a shame to downgrade to dursos or a herbie system, when you can do a calfo C2C, with the drain system that is the subject of this thread.
Follow the links in my previous post. I would go into more detail for you, but I got a busted wing, and one finger typing is too slow--- I suppose some will be glad of that
IMO, the eheim 1262 is too small for this size tank, maybe something like an Ocean Runner OR 6500. 40 breeders are a good sump tanks, but I think you may be cramped for space if you want a 10% of system volume (15 gallon) sized "fuge"
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uncleof6
Active member
The 1/4' tubing should be plenty, sounds like you are missing the adjustment point, (a gate valve allows finer adjustment) or your airline is too low in the overflow box and the open channel is going to siphon before the system stabilizes just a guess.
RocketSurgeon
New member
geaux xman
New member
uncle,
I dont have another 6" plus of room in the back for all that PVC. This tank is going in my bedroom, so i'm already scarce on space. Plus all that PVC would take away from the rimless look?
another guy from a local board suggested me:
1-1.5"drain and 1-1.0" return.
said he uses the eheim 1262 and it works out great for his 150g. noiseless too.
I really dont know what to think. Comments?
1-1.0" return hole is definitely a no go???
this 150g will be for the most part FOWLR.
I dont have another 6" plus of room in the back for all that PVC. This tank is going in my bedroom, so i'm already scarce on space. Plus all that PVC would take away from the rimless look?
another guy from a local board suggested me:
1-1.5"drain and 1-1.0" return.
said he uses the eheim 1262 and it works out great for his 150g. noiseless too.
I really dont know what to think. Comments?
1-1.0" return hole is definitely a no go???
this 150g will be for the most part FOWLR.
scbrooks87
New member
Hmm, So the water level right now is perfectly stable, didnt move all night in the overflow box, which is why I thought maybe I didnt miss the "sweet spot"
The wooshing sound in the open channel doesnt flush the external overflow, it just seems like it's building up water in the open channel rather than flowing freely, then once it builds up enough, it drains out, and starts that over again... could it be that the open channel's exit is too deep in the sump's water? it's only a couple inches deep into the sump's water, dunno if that would effect it or not.
Thanks!
-Scott
The wooshing sound in the open channel doesnt flush the external overflow, it just seems like it's building up water in the open channel rather than flowing freely, then once it builds up enough, it drains out, and starts that over again... could it be that the open channel's exit is too deep in the sump's water? it's only a couple inches deep into the sump's water, dunno if that would effect it or not.
Thanks!
-Scott
RocketSurgeon
New member
uncle,
I dont have another 6" plus of room in the back for all that PVC. This tank is going in my bedroom, so i'm already scarce on space. Plus all that PVC would take away from the rimless look?
another guy from a local board suggested me:
1-1.5"drain and 1-1.0" return.
said he uses the eheim 1262 and it works out great for his 150g. noiseless too.
I really dont know what to think. Comments?
1-1.0" return hole is definitely a no go???
this 150g will be for the most part FOWLR.
A key point to the 3 drains = failsafe! Only one drain is no where near failsafe. Sure it can handle lots of flow, till catastrophe happens; and it will.
RocketSurgeon
New member
If I understand the concept correctly, there should be only enough water in the open channel to "trickle" down. If there is more water than that in the open channel, Open the siphon channel more. The "sweet spot" is easiest found with a gate valve.
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