Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

soleglo said:
Do you think I should go the other way?? I will change it if there is a benefit. Its early in the game.
Click to expand...

With this being Bean's thread, i will let him or someone more knowledgable than myself give you their comments whenever they get a chance. If it were me i would want the inside of the tank to be where you save your space. How wide is the glass that you are going to be putting in there? Mine is 4 inches, and i will still have room to remove my elbows if i need to clean inside there. Just from looking at the pics...which may be deceiving...it appears that you will need a piece much wider than 4'' if you ever wish to remove your elbows for cleaning? I dont know that you will ever need to remove them, but i just left myself room just in case. HTH
 
I was going to go with 4" was it will fit but I did not plan to remove the elbows for cleaning.. this does seem like something I would need to incorporate into the design though
 
Hello to all.I read a lot of post strarting from the begining of this thread ,and now i am building my new aquarium.I already made 3 45mm holes for the overflow an bought the bulkheads. I am still curious to see how the sistem is starting to work.Can someone post a video of the sistem to see how it is starting?Thanks in advance.
 
You'll gain an inch of lighted space in your aquarium and have the aquarium stick out of the wall another inch. Not only that, but your out at least $20 in parts if you switch them around.(looks like you've already glued)

I would recommend against shortening the bulk heads at all. The ABS doesn't always seem to glue well to PVC and often the tolerance of the bulkheads are wide.(read sometimes you get a tight fit when you insert a pipe, sometimes it's too lose) The problem is worse the larger the bulkhead. I would leave as much as possible. Just my experience and my recommendation.

I'd leave it as is.
 
That link is bad...

You want a RANCO ETC series. They come in single and dual stage (heating or cooling, or both) and various control and operating voltage configurations.

You want either of these models:
ETC-111000-000 Single Stage 120/240
ETC-211000-000 Dual Stage 120/240
 
hey bean, i love the drain system and want to set it up on my inwall build. Im setting up a 125, and have a few questions.

How far apart do you recomend drilling the holes? ( im having a glass shop drill them)

My skimmer will be ran by blueline 70HD (1100gph 4ft head) and want to match my return to that (1100gph), what are the minimum dimension's of an overflow box that can handle that flow?

I thought i saw a design with the pumbing turned to go horizontal with back of tank, can it be done on an internal overflow with holes in back of tank?

-- I would just rather the coast to coast to not block to much light.

Would 1'' plumbing be able to handle 1100 GPH with this design?

Is it ok to run flex tubing after unions?

Must i use glass for overflow or can i use black acrylic?

I'll see if i come up with anymore Q's



Thankyou
 
Last edited:
danyalexa said:
Hello to all.I read a lot of post strarting from the begining of this thread ,and now i am building my new aquarium.I already made 3 45mm holes for the overflow an bought the bulkheads. I am still curious to see how the sistem is starting to work.Can someone post a video of the sistem to see how it is starting?Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

They have about 4 videos that I have found on youtube displaying the flow of the system. Just type in bean animal overflow or bean overflow. Hope this helps.
 
LudiNano:

Most of those questions are answered numerous times in this thread. I am a bit short on time this morning so will refer you back to the begining of the thread and the project page at my website:
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx

Short answers:
1) at least 1.5 HOLE diameters apart, preferably at least 2 hole diamaters apart.
2) the overflow box needs to be as wide as you can make it for efficient surface skimming.
3) horizontal plumbing will not work
4) 1" plumbing: read thread and design notes
5) flex is fine
6) glass or acrylic as long as you understand how to work and safely attache either. Prefer glass for glass tank and acrylic for acrylic tank.
 
Another question

Another question

Hi BeanAnimal i have a question:

Is there a reference for where (how low) to drill my 3 holes? Ive read until the first split and can't do another 101 pages. haha. I think, i need to have the center line of the 1" bulkhead so that the top of the 1x1.5 street elbow (emg line) is 1/2 inch below the actual flood point. Then drill the other two holes at the same level.

When i put in my overflow box, i make sure the top is just a few mm away from the bottom lip of the aquarium trim so that is looks like my water level is always at the top of the tank. Also the bottom of the overflow box is going to be 1/2 inch away from the turned down street elbows. Is this correct?

I am just starting the hobby after a number of months of reading. Go easy on me! Hehe.


Thank you for your time.
Tyler.
 
Has anyone here done the bean drains with only 2 of the 3 pipes? I read through a lot of the first 40 pages, and skimmed the next 100, but didn't see anything.

I have a 27g cube and have two 1" bulkheads with T's plumbed, I know one of the elbows on the drains is to be down (full siphon one). But would it be better to set up the 2nd as an upturned elbow (emergency drain) or another down turned elbow with a john guest fitting?
 
Assuming you go with a siphon and emergency. And there will be some sort of a weir for surface skimming. Then you would basically have a herbie. The height of the water in the overflow can fluctuate some (evaporation, power fluctuations, adding or removing something, etc.) the more distance you can have between the siphon and emergency make the Herbie easier to tune.

Maybe we should move this discussion over to the Herbie thread?
 
jmurr8484 said:
They have about 4 videos that I have found on youtube displaying the flow of the system. Just type in bean animal overflow or bean overflow. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks .i saw all the movies, but i wanted to see how the sistem is starting.I could not find this on the videos.
 
Thanks, I watched the beginning of that video but never saw towards the end when they switched to side of the tank drains vs. bottom of tank.

I also can't drill a 3rd drain hole, as its only 1/4" thick glass and there is 3 holes already (2x1" drains and 1x3/4" return) so I don't think it will handle another.



scott26 said:
You can do the herbie look at this link below.

Herbie Drilled Back Overflow

Why not just add another hole and make it a Bean system thought you won't regret it at all.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

AquaticReefTV
DIY Cable management time lapse
Replies
1
Views
530
S|\/|S
S
DjPhato
Overflow and flow-pump location for peninsula
Replies
1
Views
306
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
H
Dry Fit Plumbing Test for 200g, Critique before I glue?
Replies
4
Views
473
Hezamam
H
isseym328
Adding water volume to current set up help
Replies
18
Views
945
JohnL
JohnL
T
220G Tank Setup - Flow/General Advice Needed
2
Replies
23
Views
1K
The Reef Addict
T
Back
Top