Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Check out this video of a Beananimal/Coast to Coast overflow I just finished on my 210g. All I can say is quiet as a church mouse in less than 45 seconds. The siphon starts after about 15 seconds of the pump starting. One very key element to making the system run with out trouble is the depth that the Full Siphon goes below the water line in the tank. I have mine about 1" below the surface.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWV6Q-rL_aY&feature=youtube_gdata_player
 
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^can you share a vid of your entire tank. Almost like an FTS? I am considering installing this on my 210 too but not sure if I like the look of a coast to coast. Can you share more vids or pics?

Thanks!
 
i cut three one inch holes. wrong size. i may be wrong but the hole bit should be around 1 5/8". a one inch pvc pipe will not fit thru so either i have to try to dill around it or use what i got.

is there plumbing materials for a one inch hole? slip bulkhead, true union ball valves..etc.
 
Has anyone tried the BeanAnimal overflow on a nano?

I plan to use this on my 24x24x16 but because of space constraints I'm thinking of using 3 x 3/4" pipes for the overflow. Oh and my overflow box is internal and the holes are drilled on the base of the glass instead of the side. I wonder if this would work :fun4:
 
If I wanted to feed 2 media reactors from the drain line, will this mess up the siphon?

IMO it's not advisable to feed the reactors through the drain. Another reason is because the "dirtier" water would clog up the reactors faster. I would use a separate pump.
 
not sure you will get the flow you need through the reactors that way.
plus you may mess up your siphon. easier to use your return pump for that.

IMO it's not advisable to feed the reactors through the drain. Another reason is because the "dirtier" water would clog up the reactors faster. I would use a separate pump.

thanks guys. I'm just gonna use some maxi jets to feed them. Was just thinking about trying to declutter the sump.
 
IIRC 90 cause more resistance to the water (preventing flow). But I think I also so a chart where two 45 came the same back pressure as a 90.
 
I'm sure it's been asked somewhere in here, but can you have the gate or ball valves closer to the sump, or do they have to be right at the topmof the drain?
 
I know there has been discussion here about how to set up the system in a DD tank with dual corner overflows. The solution presented has been to have the emergency drain and the return in one of the overflows and put sand in to prevent water stagnation. How about this ... leave out the sand and split some loc line at the top of the box having one pipe directing back down the overflow to circulate water... i would still have a back siphon hole drilled above the split to stop water drain.

Thoughts?
 
Sounds good. I think another options was to tie a drain in each together and then use that as the siphon drain. As long as some water goes into both tanks it will not stagnate. Then place the open in one and the emergency in the other.
 
Hopefully somebody can answer this...

I plan on having an external overflow with sched 80 bulkheads on the bottom. It will be siliconed to the tank wall with a weir cut into the glass.

Is it OK to slip fit (and leave unglued) the standpipes into the bulkheads at the bottom of the overflow (maybe with some teflon tape to make them tight if need be)? I'm worried that with threaded fittings there won't be enough room to turn them. I can't for the life of me think of a reason why these standpipes would have to be 100% leakproof. I could probably thread the safety standpipe though since it will be straight. I would rather avoid gluing the standpipes to the bulkheads for maintenance reasons...
 
I am ready to silicone my internal overflow to the tank for the bean animal project. Is 1/2" to 5/8" above the black trim okay for the water level, or does it not matter as it's aesthetic purposes only how high the box is set re: the water level?
 
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