Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[torino06]

Let me put it this way, you want to room to be able to play with the water level height.

The variables (among a many) are the box sizes (internal and external) and the hole sizes from internal to external as the relate to the total flow rate through them.

If the level is too high and the flow too low, then the weir box will build surface scum. If the level is too low, the box may make noise as water dumps from the internal to the external.

In other words, you want some room to play with standpipe heights as the "perfect" spot will vary depending on box volume, hole size and flow.

do you think if i add 2" (7.5" in height) that i will be safe?

 

[rcr]

Bean"¦ design question? 210 gal display on first floor, sump in the basement under the stairs. 30" vertical fall from display to sweep 90 then 15' horizontal to sweep 90 then 15' horizontal to sweep 90 then 4' vertical to gate valve. Can we make it work? I can put some fall in the horizontal runs. I have stubbed out 2 2" and 2 11/2 in the room under the stairs. Was thinking use one 2" as siphon, 1 ½ as open channel, 1 ½ as safety and 2 inch as return. Was going to use Pan world 250ps around 1500gph. What all would you change?
Thanks
Robin

 

[ram1500]

No need to bump the thread, it stays pretty close to the top and most questions get answered in a fair amount of time.

You can attach the open end of the airline with a zip tie around the standpipe next to it (the emergency) or with a custom fabricated piece of PVC, acrylic or whatever. Mine is attached to a piece of eggcrate that keeps snails away from the intakes.

Thanks Bean... not sure how or why the bump came up twice.

I guess I'm trying to better understand how the airline works. Would love to see a picture of one. Does it need to be secured just above the water line in the overflow box? For some reason I'm thinking it does and if the water goes above the tube it turns that standpipe into a full siphon?

Thanks
GUs

 

[JTL]

You got it. By plugging the airline with water it becomes a full siphon. You can put the open end of the airline anywhere below the top of the overflow box but leave yourself some room. About 1/2 way between bottom of the down turned 90 and the top of the box will be good.

 

[JTL]

Trying to decide whether to do an internal or an external overflow box. This is for a rimless that I am going to build. Opinions?

 

[ram1500]

You got it. By plugging the airline with water it becomes a full siphon. You can put the open end of the airline anywhere below the top of the overflow box but leave yourself some room. About 1/2 way between bottom of the down turned 90 and the top of the box will be good.

Thanks JTL..

 

[jason2459]

@jason
The 2" pipe could be used as a closed loop intake for a large CL pump. If that is not something you wish to do, then it can be used as anything you like, but would best serve as the open channel or emergency. Then (as you have already acknowledged) you would need to drill two more holes for the remaining standpipes.

Thanks. I really like the idea of a possible closed loop. Never thought about that. I won't be setting that up right away so for now I will cap it and drill 3 new holes.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[ram1500]

Making progress.... Good thing I never through away that old set of glass tops. Then another light bulb went off and cut it with a $70 wet saw I bought a Lowes for a kitchen project this past winter. What a night!!

18" x 3" x 4.25" high. Ends up 24" of skimming area for the 72g bow front.

Tomorrow I'll silicone it to the tank

Gus

 

[jason2459]

Last question I hope. After reading through a few more posts I would like to verify that I wont have an issue but some of the posts have given me some concern.

3x 1.5" bulkheads with 1.5" schd 40 going down to a 1.5" union ball valve then transition to 1" schd 40. This would be with in 3-4feet coming from the tank above the floor.

Then the 1" schd 40 will take a 90degree turn below the flooring taking a 10' horizontal run to my sump room in the basement. I don't care about bubbles in the sump as I use a filter sock and have tested the baffles by overflowing my skimmer. And I don't care about noise in the sump area. I mostly just care about a lot of noise at the tank.

 

[ram1500]

Making progress.... Good thing I never through away that old set of glass tops. Then another light bulb went off and cut it with a $70 wet saw I bought a Lowes for a kitchen project this past winter. What a night!!

18" x 3" x 4.25" high. Ends up 24" of skimming area for the 72g bow front.

Tomorrow I'll silicone it to the tank

Gus

Some more progress tonight. Overflow in place, back is painted black. Next is the sump.

 

[dlp211]

Hey,

Quick question: My return line is 3/4" bulkheads and my drain are 1" bulkheads, should I drill all my holes centerline, or should I flush them top or bottom?

Thanks
DLP211

 

[RocketSurgeon]

Hey,

Quick question: My return line is 3/4" bulkheads and my drain are 1" bulkheads, should I drill all my holes centerline, or should I flush them top or bottom?

Thanks
DLP211

I don't know that your return lines have any affect. This is a matter of preference, visual appeal. No one but you will be back there holding a ruler to them.

 

[bennyhanna1]

Open to anyone with experience:

I posted a few days ago: I'm setting up a 40g Breeder, Fish Only (for now), and I've purchased a few 3/4" plumbing supplies for my drains, if I'm only looking for flow through the sump of around 400gph, would 3/4" be okay, or should I upsize the open channel and emergency pipes?

On that note, I'm assuming 3/4 return lines would be ample? I'm thinking of 2 returns that will sit on either side of my overflow.

This will be my first saltwater tank, so i'm still learning!

 

[RocketSurgeon]

Open to anyone with experience:

I posted a few days ago: I'm setting up a 40g Breeder, Fish Only (for now), and I've purchased a few 3/4" plumbing supplies for my drains, if I'm only looking for flow through the sump of around 400gph, would 3/4" be okay, or should I upsize the open channel and emergency pipes?

On that note, I'm assuming 3/4 return lines would be ample? I'm thinking of 2 returns that will sit on either side of my overflow.

This will be my first saltwater tank, so i'm still learning!

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18762517&postcount=3402

3/4" probably will work, but you will get almost double (80% more) volume using 1" instead. Last thing you want is your emergency being clogged by a small snail. the 1" open channel easily gives more surface area for the water to cling to, resulting in quieter operation.

I've had my fish tear a piece of my algae sheet off and it quickly flow over the weir, potentially clogging a small pipe.

 

[CJBROWN]

Open to anyone with experience:

I posted a few days ago: I'm setting up a 40g Breeder, Fish Only (for now), and I've purchased a few 3/4" plumbing supplies for my drains, if I'm only looking for flow through the sump of around 400gph, would 3/4" be okay, or should I upsize the open channel and emergency pipes?

On that note, I'm assuming 3/4 return lines would be ample? I'm thinking of 2 returns that will sit on either side of my overflow.

This will be my first saltwater tank, so i'm still learning!

3/4 pipe on full siphon will easily keep up with your pump output.
The original had larger diameter because that's what was in there, larger on the intake to prevent vortices from suction, and overall to help prevent a critter from plugging it.

3/4 returns will work fine too. 450gph isn't too much to deal with, the velocity even on one pipe is not bad, I only have one with a 1260. For more volume two outlets would be of benefit.

What kind of pump?

 

[bennyhanna1]

thanks for the quick replies guys, won't be a total sunk cost, I'll use the extra 3/4 unions on the returns then!

I haven't decided on a pump yet, and i'm still trying to determine how i want to set up the returns, first thought is to have a single pipe run about 2ft vertical and 'Y' into the separate returns, which would run approx. another 2ft to the bulkheads.

While discussing pumps, is there truth in the notion that it's more efficient to have a larger pump throttled back than a smaller pump running at 100%? I tried to search for a thread because i know i read it somewhere, but wasn't able to find it

sorry, don't want to get off topic!

edit: well what do you know, randomly clicked on page 62 of this thread and saw a post by BeAn that suggests finding a pump that fits the bill by looking at the flow curves, rather than buying a bigger pump and throttling it back

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16546874&postcount=1540

 

[CJBROWN]

thanks for the quick replies guys, won't be a total sunk cost, I'll use the extra 3/4 unions on the returns then!

I haven't decided on a pump yet, and i'm still trying to determine how i want to set up the returns, first thought is to have a single pipe run about 2ft vertical and 'Y' into the separate returns, which would run approx. another 2ft to the bulkheads.

While discussing pumps, is there truth in the notion that it's more efficient to have a larger pump throttled back than a smaller pump running at 100%? I tried to search for a thread because i know i read it somewhere, but wasn't able to find it

sorry, don't want to get off topic!

Easiest and more simple to just get a pump that matches your need and run it full. Otherwise you need a valve and possibly more plumbing. Some complicated setups run a manifold and all kinds of other equip off their pump.

I really like my eheim, the 1260 would work just fine for your setup, plenty of flow, dead silent, perfect for 3/4 return lines. Lockline adjustable nozzles would give you some good flow versatility.

 

[jason2459]

Last question I hope. After reading through a few more posts I would like to verify that I wont have an issue but some of the posts have given me some concern.

3x 1.5" bulkheads with 1.5" schd 40 going down to a 1.5" union ball valve then transition to 1" schd 40. This would be with in 3-4feet coming from the tank above the floor.

Then the 1" schd 40 will take a 90degree turn below the flooring taking a 10' horizontal run to my sump room in the basement. I don't care about bubbles in the sump as I use a filter sock and have tested the baffles by overflowing my skimmer. And I don't care about noise in the sump area. I mostly just care about a lot of noise at the tank.

Sorry, I hate to bump this but I'm ready to buy the bulkheads and the drill bit so I just want to make sure I'm getting the right sizes.

 

[Sea Witch]

What a super interesting thread. I've spent days reading it. :reading: Great idea/design, BeanAnimal. (I would have just sent this message by PM, but he doesn't take PM's).

 

[bennyhanna1]

i'm still collecting pieces for my plumbing, as far as constructing the airline, any reason i couldn't simply take a cap, put a hole in the top and seal an airline tube to it? I don't have any of the tools to 'tap' and make the threads to then put john guest fittings in... and john guest fittings seem rather pricey

second question, for the external box, with the standpipes coming through the bottom, any reason why I can't just have a simple 1" PVC pipe attached to the bulkhead for the emergency drain and leave it like that? Would it be beneficial to add a 1" to 1.25" fitting on the top or anything?

Thanks much! Project is getting more real each dollar i spend