Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Hey Bean.... quick question for ya
i apologize if its been answered already but i just want to get your advice.
i recently bought a used 100g tank that was already drilled with (2) x 1.5" bulkhead and (2)x 3/4 returns.
I want to use your system, so i would add another 1.5" bulkhead......
i know you said the system can be scaled up...but the way i understand it i would have 2" drains from the 1.5" bulkheads ( or can they be 1.5" all the way threw?)
my question is would i do 1.5" pvc adapted to 2" for the drains? and are the existing (2) 3/4" returns ok? or should i drill them to 1" (is it possible to make an exising hole larger?)

sorry if the question is a bit jumbled this is my first attempt at anything like this......thank you in advance Bean!
 
Last edited:
Forgive me as I am not sure I understand your question. You have 1.5" bulkeads, so you can use 1.5" standpipes. The standpipes do not need to be bigger than the bulkheads.

You say "scaled up". How much flow do you want to push through the syste?
 
BeanAnimal said:
Forgive me as I am not sure I understand your question. You have 1.5" bulkeads, so you can use 1.5" standpipes. The standpipes do not need to be bigger than the bulkheads.

You say "scaled up". How much flow do you want to push through the syste?
Click to expand...

I ment scaled up from your original design.
you use 1" bulkheads and have 1.5" drains...i thought since i have 1.5" bulkheads i would need 2" drains?
 
It really depends on your proposed flow, but in general there is no need to use 2" plumbing with 1.5" bulkheads.

Likewise, depending on the desired flow, you may be able to utilize the 3/4" return as a siphon.
 
BeanAnimal said:
It really depends on your proposed flow, but in general there is no need to use 2" plumbing with 1.5" bulkheads.

Likewise, depending on the desired flow, you may be able to utilize the 3/4" return as a siphon.
Click to expand...

Im not looking to do anything crazy with the flow. I havnt calculated how much really. I figured i could dial it back to what seemed ok.
I cant use the 3/4" hole they are drilled way up on the outter most corners of the tank and the 2 existing 1.5" bulkheads are dead center about 4" from the top...my plan was to add a third.
the returns i thought were a problem...couldve sworn i read somewhere on this thread that 1" is better.
and thank you for answering..let alone so quick....my gf is making fun of me right now she said im acting like im talking with a celebraty....i explained i am and your like the derek jeter of reefing....lol
 
so just to make it cut and dry...
i can use 1.5" standpipes.....and the 3/4 returns are ok
only ask becuas eim about to order some stuff from gl*******s and get drilling :)
Bean u are the man!
 
I need to do some creative plumbing to put my tank where it needs to be. Specifically I need to come out of the backside of the internal overflow, make a 90 down about 2' or 3' then make a 90 and another 90 in short succession then finally and go straight about 3' to reach my sump. Is this going to cause a problem with starting the siphon on the primary drain? I never make it easy.
 
Hey Bean,

So I have my tank all drilled and ready to go. I have 1.5" pipe ready to flow down to my sump and fuge. I have a question on how I should set this up though. My sump and fuge are separate and so both need to be fed by the display tank. For this I am thinking of adding a 'Y' and putting a gate valve on the pipe headed to the fuge to regulate flow. I was wondering if I needed to do anything to stop this system from making noise or if there is a better solution.

Thanks
Dave
 
Hi Bean and everyone else who may have input. I got my tank plumbed using yoru system and wanted to get feed back on what I may need to change. drains are 1" and I still need to attach the airline tubing to the open channel pipe. here some pics.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/rommelgin/sump12.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y182/rommelgin/sump10.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
from left to right, Siphon drain, open channel, emergency then return. I still need to add the baffles in the sump but the siphon drain and open channel will drain into the skimmer section. Emergency will drain into the fuge section. This is just a dry run so any advice on improvement before I glue is greatly appreciated!
 
JTL said:
I need to do some creative plumbing to put my tank where it needs to be. Specifically I need to come out of the backside of the internal overflow, make a 90 down about 2' or 3' then make a 90 and another 90 in short succession then finally and go straight about 3' to reach my sump. Is this going to cause a problem with starting the siphon on the primary drain? I never make it easy.
Click to expand...

Any one want to comment? The question is do multiple bends and turns have any effect on the siphon. Thinking this outloud says that the drop is more important than the turns and bends. My concern is that the siphon will not restart after a power loss.
 
from what I understand, it would be better if you used 45 instead of 90's for less turbulence giving a better chance for a siphin to occur.
 
The more bends and turns or longer pipe the more head pressure and it will be a slower flow and (I believe) take longer for the siphon to form.
 
can i setup an overflow box, probably internal with no drill holes?

Can I have the 3 standpipe go over the tank and come back down into the overflow box? It'll be like
overflow.jpg
 
anyone know of a overflow box or design that i can hang or glue on the back that will act like a regular hob filter ?

it will drip the water into the tank like a hob filter, this is for freshwater btw. trying to find a way not to drill my 220 at all.......
 
This is a thread dedicated to a specific type of standpipe design so you will not likely get an answer here with regard to HOB type overflow. In most cases, drilling is the best and only real viable option.

Your best bet is to ask your HOB questions (by starting a thread) in the equipment forum. Provide more detail about your needs and what you are trying to describe.

If you are interested in drilling your tank and wish to construct a silent and fail-safe overflow system, then this is the place. I would suggest reading at least the first few pages of the thread and the project page at my website (linked if you click my name to the left).

Good luck :)
 
BeanAnimal said:
This is a thread dedicated to a specific type of standpipe design so you will not likely get an answer here with regard to HOB type overflow. In most cases, drilling is the best and only real viable option.

Your best bet is to ask your HOB questions (by starting a thread) in the equipment forum. Provide more detail about your needs and what you are trying to describe.

If you are interested in drilling your tank and wish to construct a silent and fail-safe overflow system, then this is the place. I would suggest reading at least the first few pages of the thread and the project page at my website (linked if you click my name to the left).

Good luck :)
Click to expand...

well my question is relating to your build. I am trying not to drill the 220g.
If i can get a large enough hob filter, drill the 3 holes to put the 3 drain lines, technically, it should work correctly?
And it will achieve my function as well as where I don't have to drill the tank.
Water will go into the hob and be siphon down.

Would this affect any functions of the fail save method? Sorry, first time plumber here :)
 
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