Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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reeferdale
New member
TTT - anybody? This design is so nice. I have wanted something silent for 15 years. Seems to me that if I just had the stand pipes at the right height, and the valves below the stand, I would have the same flow going here, and, I would have leterally no elbows to deal with. Just looking for any feedback before I build it, ya know, sometimes, especially sumps and waterflow look good on paper but when you actually do it, you find out other wise.
mc-cro
(macro)
just for kicks, here are a few pics of my plumbing, I just finished mine on an external overflow. The overflow was originally only drilled for a 1.5 drain and 3/4" return. I drilled a 3rd whole, and went with a bean animal drain. The overflow is only 18", but nothing I could do about that.(used tank)
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SouthBayPhoto
New member
just for kicks, here are a few pics of my plumbing, I just finished mine on an external overflow. The overflow was originally only drilled for a 1.5 drain and 3/4" return. I drilled a 3rd whole, and went with a bean animal drain. The overflow is only 18", but nothing I could do about that.(used tank)
Mc-cro - Any chance you have pics of the inside of the tank showing the overflow? I'm curious on how the water flows into your external overflow from the tank. I'd love to do an external, but I don't know how to safely cut the glass so that the water flows into the external overflow box mounted on the back of the tank.
Thanks!
Mat
Sent from my SBP BB.
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mc-cro
(macro)
Mc-cro - Any chance you have pics of the inside of the tank showing the overflow? I'm curious on how the water flows into your external overflow from the tank. I'd love to do an external, but I don't know how to safely cut the glass so that the water flows into the external overflow box mounted on the back of the tank.
Thanks!
Mat
Sent from my SBP BB.
I have some pics of where I filled in some teeth they had taken out for a return, but its just like any other overflow, it has teeth, except the teeth are made out of the back panel. My tank was custom made and designed with an external overflow. putting an external overflow on an already made tank can be done, but it is very tricky, and takes some patience. It is not something I would undertake on a large expensive tank. If you do a search you can see what all is involved, but unless you have the right tools, and skills, is probably better left to someone else.
here is a pic where I was replacing some teeth.
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I think it is for tuning the "flushing" sound by letting more air ( or less ) into the stand pipe. The by-product will be smoother & quieter water flow...... more water passing.[/QUOT]
NO! That is the problem with Durso and Stockman (etc) setups, they rely on adjusting airflow to "tune" a partial siphon (two phase flow). It is not reliable and creates noise or bubbles (or both). This setup uses an air to water ratio that is large enough (in the "open channel standpipe" that the flow remains single phase (not a partial siphon). Therefore, it is quiet and does not entrain air.
In any case, the "1/4" valve mentioned above is a 1/4 TURN ball valve as seen on his return pump, not a 1/4 INCH air valve.
Been following this thread on and off and great info.....I'm currently in the process of plumbing my overflow. My overflow is an external coast to coast. The overflow is drilled for (3) 1.5 bulkheads. The overflow is drilled through the bottom and not the back.
Where I'm confused or might have missed, but I'm curious how deep the elbows should actually sit inside the overflow box? Would raising the plumbing inside the overflow box also quiet the water coming into the overflow box, creating less dropping distance of the water? Do the bottom elbows of the plumbing have to be close to the bottom of the overflow box?
Where I'm confused or might have missed, but I'm curious how deep the elbows should actually sit inside the overflow box? Would raising the plumbing inside the overflow box also quiet the water coming into the overflow box, creating less dropping distance of the water? Do the bottom elbows of the plumbing have to be close to the bottom of the overflow box?
Been following this thread on and off and great info.....I'm currently in the process of plumbing my overflow. My overflow is an external coast to coast. The overflow is drilled for (3) 1.5 bulkheads. The overflow is drilled through the bottom and not the back.
Where I'm confused or might have missed, but I'm curious how deep the elbows should actually sit inside the overflow box? Would raising the plumbing inside the overflow box also quiet the water coming into the overflow box, creating less dropping distance of the water? Do the bottom elbows of the plumbing have to be close to the bottom of the overflow box?
Where I'm confused or might have missed, but I'm curious how deep the elbows should actually sit inside the overflow box? Would raising the plumbing inside the overflow box also quiet the water coming into the overflow box, creating less dropping distance of the water? Do the bottom elbows of the plumbing have to be close to the bottom of the overflow box?
SouthBayPhoto
New member
I have some pics of where I filled in some teeth they had taken out for a return, but its just like any other overflow, it has teeth, except the teeth are made out of the back panel. My tank was custom made and designed with an external overflow. putting an external overflow on an already made tank can be done, but it is very tricky, and takes some patience. It is not something I would undertake on a large expensive tank. If you do a search you can see what all is involved, but unless you have the right tools, and skills, is probably better left to someone else.
here is a pic where I was replacing some teeth.
Mc-cro - Thanks for the info and the heads up. If anything, I would find a shop that could cut the grooves/teeth into the tank. That's a pretty cool idea. All of the other ones I've seen just cut out a slot and that makes me worry because that would probably weaken the top part of the frame/tank. However, your way of cutting grooves/teeth is pretty cool because it keeps the integrity of the tank. However, I'm sure it's not the easiest way to do it. I'll have to google tank cutting or whatever you would call it to see what all is involved. Like I said, I'd like to take it to a competent shop that could do this for me if I decide to go that route. Would be nice if I could do it though.
Thanks again for the info.
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