Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
I've got about a 3/8"-1/2" of clearance on mine, and it's 1" bulkheads - and it flows fine. a lot of the pics on here show similar small gaps, but you do want it large enough to flow all the water you want - i.e. if you put it 1/16th off the bottom of your overflow, don't be surprised if you have flooding issues..
However, if you DO accidentally install it with too-little gap between the bottom of the elbow and the overflow... you can always trim what you need off the elbow. A lot of examples have slits cut into the elbows too.
Thanks evilpsych....I haven't glued anything permanently as of yet, but was asking for the mere fact, that the farther the water falls into the overflow the more noise that would be produced????
I might not glue them in place just yet, but teflon them into place and do some test runs to find the right height before gluing.....
I might not glue them in place just yet, but teflon them into place and do some test runs to find the right height before gluing.....
I wonder if anybody has ever used the suggestion that Beananimal made in his post nr 118 in this topic. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11970330&postcount=118
In the ideal world, there is no internal overflow box, all is external.
But to have all the benefits of the Calfo-weir, i think that a small internal overlflow box is almost unavoidable.
That is... if you do not cut the back pane of the aquarium to form a weir, and then mount a back mounted overflow box with the beananibal system overflow.
Are there examples ? Pictures ?
In the ideal world, there is no internal overflow box, all is external.
But to have all the benefits of the Calfo-weir, i think that a small internal overlflow box is almost unavoidable.
That is... if you do not cut the back pane of the aquarium to form a weir, and then mount a back mounted overflow box with the beananibal system overflow.
Are there examples ? Pictures ?
mc-cro
(macro)
Are you referring to the ball valve on my return line? Its simply to adjust how much water is coming into the tank. I have a huge return pump(Panworld 200) and adjustable height on the overflow teeth. If I ran it full blast, at least on my previous tank, I would push more water than the overflow teeth could keep up with. The valve just gives me the ability to set the water height in the tank in combination with the adjustable teeth.
The external overflow box is like 14" or something, I cant remember exactly, but its pretty tall and will create a lot of splashing. Since it was already drilled in the bottom of the overflow, I did not use any 90* elbows inside the overflow. I have 1 large drain in the bottom, only a strainer over it, I adjust the rate of siphon with a gate valve in the basement before the sump.
My second drain line is durso pipe, the 3rd pipe is just an open stand pipe with gutter guard in it. Adjust the height of the water in the box so that water just barely trickles into the durso. Those of course do not need ball valves.
It all works on the same principle as beans design, just modified based on the pre-existing overflow box. works like a charm.
picker
New member
Took a 2.5" pipe and put it over a bulkhead nut and covered it with a 2.5" cap trimmed with a slot in the bottom.
it was low profile
but at full siphan will grab surface air unless the flow is reduced.
oh well, still fishing for a close to wall; small tank footprint overflow.
it was low profile
but at full siphan will grab surface air unless the flow is reduced.
oh well, still fishing for a close to wall; small tank footprint overflow.
autodave
New member
I have an external on my glass tank,the builder takes the back pane of glass and gets a notch cut with a water jet.My tank is 30x30x24(inches),the notch is about 15x1.5,centered in the back pane.Then the overflow box is siliconed on.With the Beananimal it's an awesome setup
TheFishMan65
New member
I think it does. If you look at the first picture it appears to have a coast to coast inside the tank about 3x3. We will have to wait for picker to tell me if I am interpreting his picture correctly. I am confused by what look like a lip on the C2C.
picker
New member
> I am confused by what look like a lip on the C2C.
its full C2C, the lip is the flip side of the C2C that's narrower so I can experiment with a 3" or 2" C2C well. (the trick I think is to slope the C2C to maximize the pool under the full siphon, but I haven't proven that theory yet)
the 2.5" cap elbow idea would work great on lower flow tanks, but my 4-MDQX-SC @ 3foot head with 1225gph is too much for it. 3/16 waterfall over 3feet C2C is alot of flow.
its full C2C, the lip is the flip side of the C2C that's narrower so I can experiment with a 3" or 2" C2C well. (the trick I think is to slope the C2C to maximize the pool under the full siphon, but I haven't proven that theory yet)
the 2.5" cap elbow idea would work great on lower flow tanks, but my 4-MDQX-SC @ 3foot head with 1225gph is too much for it. 3/16 waterfall over 3feet C2C is alot of flow.
Thought I would post this since I didn't see it anywhere (I will try and posts some pic's later).
I have a very long run from one tank (i have two tanks in this system) to my sump. Something like 15 vertical feet and about 12 horizontal feet. I was having a tough time (as Bean has mentioned) getting the siphon to start properly without assistance. I am using 3 1" drains on a 100g tank with an external overflow I built into the side of the tank.
What I ended up doing was three things:
First I fully opened the valve below the tank itself (I have one below the tank and one by the sump for the siphon drain on both tanks) and used the valve closer to the sump to adjust the waterflow. This was actually fairly easy to do simply by using the sound of the drain, when it stopped sucking air, it got quiet.
Second I drilled a small hole (1/4") just above the water line in the sump to allow air to vent out.
Third I removed the standpipe I had for the siphon drain (basically just two 90 degree elbows) and replaced it with a T with a street 90. At the top port of the T I installed a John Guest adapted, a short length of 1/4" airline and a check valve. This allows the drain to suck in a little bit of air to get started, but then seals off once the pressure stabilizes. Works perfectly, siphon takes just a few seconds to kick in. Thought this might be useful to someone.
The downside of course is the check valve could fail at some point, but its not really as issue as all 3 drains easily manage the full flow of the tank individually without issue. So worst case the siphon stops and I will simply hear the other drains kick in and replace it.
Anyway, dead silent, works fantastically, just thought I would share my experience. Great system Bean.
I have a very long run from one tank (i have two tanks in this system) to my sump. Something like 15 vertical feet and about 12 horizontal feet. I was having a tough time (as Bean has mentioned) getting the siphon to start properly without assistance. I am using 3 1" drains on a 100g tank with an external overflow I built into the side of the tank.
What I ended up doing was three things:
First I fully opened the valve below the tank itself (I have one below the tank and one by the sump for the siphon drain on both tanks) and used the valve closer to the sump to adjust the waterflow. This was actually fairly easy to do simply by using the sound of the drain, when it stopped sucking air, it got quiet.
Second I drilled a small hole (1/4") just above the water line in the sump to allow air to vent out.
Third I removed the standpipe I had for the siphon drain (basically just two 90 degree elbows) and replaced it with a T with a street 90. At the top port of the T I installed a John Guest adapted, a short length of 1/4" airline and a check valve. This allows the drain to suck in a little bit of air to get started, but then seals off once the pressure stabilizes. Works perfectly, siphon takes just a few seconds to kick in. Thought this might be useful to someone.
The downside of course is the check valve could fail at some point, but its not really as issue as all 3 drains easily manage the full flow of the tank individually without issue. So worst case the siphon stops and I will simply hear the other drains kick in and replace it.
Anyway, dead silent, works fantastically, just thought I would share my experience. Great system Bean.
Tigé21v
Active member
Maybe glue a thin piece of plastic (like from a milk jug, maybe a little stiffer) to the cap so that it extends 1/2" or so around the cap? Should be enough to keep it from pulling air.
picker
New member
> replaced it with a T with a street 90. At the top port of the T I installed a John Guest adapted,
I'm confused, I thought the air above the last 90 in the siphon line was for cleaning or perhaps to break the siphon quicker on power loss?
will these two go full siphon at the same time? my guess is the T would take longer because it would hafta suck the air trapped in the upper T down to the sump before going full siphon.
I'm confused, I thought the air above the last 90 in the siphon line was for cleaning or perhaps to break the siphon quicker on power loss?
will these two go full siphon at the same time? my guess is the T would take longer because it would hafta suck the air trapped in the upper T down to the sump before going full siphon.
> replaced it with a T with a street 90. At the top port of the T I installed a John Guest adapted,
I'm confused, I thought the air above the last 90 in the siphon line was for cleaning or perhaps to break the siphon quicker on power loss?
will these two go full siphon at the same time? my guess is the T would take longer because it would hafta suck the air trapped in the upper T down to the sump before going full siphon.
Here is a pic:
It works, siphons within 30 seconds.
TheFishMan65
New member
Picker, it is hard to tell I actually think that the one on the left has the entry point just a little lower - so it should siphon first. I think air will be trapped in the top of the elbow and very slowly get pulled out so you may see micro bubbles for a long time.
I'm about to finalize my plumbing for my overflow system and pump. I'm planning on running flex PVC from my 3 drains down into my sump. Should I put any sort of filter sock over the end of the flex-PVC to keep larger material out of the skimmer chamber of my sump, or would that just unnecessarily increase the risk of a clog?
The drain pipe should be ~1" submerged in the sump, right?
The drain pipe should be ~1" submerged in the sump, right?
autodave
New member
After I setup mine I did not use a filter sock,but I was gettting alot of debris in my sump.I then went back to a sock to keep my sump cleaner.If your sock gets dirty it will affect the full siphon(more back pressure).Yes,less than 1 inch
nurjrk
New member
Please forgive me if this has been covered before. I am planning on a 20gal long with end overflow. The original was a 1" upsized to 1 1/2". I will be using 3/4"bulkheads. Can I use all 3/4" pvc or do I have to upsize the outflow line to 1", or does that not matter.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
crossleymarko
New member
ok so i got all my parts,, a couple of questions, the air check valve is this necsscary ar can i use just an air line in the partial siphon. would my valve on the full siphon be better near the sump in the room adjacent (other side of a wall). im only putting a valve on the full siphon and return pump is this ok...
thanks all
thanks all
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