Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[uncleof6]

Would one return be able to handle 1200 gph though at 3/4" ?

It will yes, however--the friction loss would get excessive, requiring a larger pump than you could otherwise use. I would put the upper limit at ~ 900 gph, for 3/4" pipe (pump output,) but would recommend 600 gph or less.

Two 3/4 lines would not be a good choice either. It still has to go through a single 3/4". Also, 2 - 3/4" pipes do not equal a 1.5" single line.

The way to figure it is 1 size over the size of the actual pump output--I.E. a 3/4" output should use 1" pipe etc, and even if you split it, do not reduce it in size. This does NOT apply to Danner mag drive 9.5 and larger--1.5" output pipe minimum.

To achieve this end, I would plug the return hole in the overflow and run the return up over the back, before I would use a 3/4" return.

 

[Screener]

I put a weir from one overflow to the other, then notched out the back behind the weir to connect the overflows.

I have the same system as yours and want to do this.

How did you notch out the sides of the corner overflows?? I don't know how to do this.

Now that your conversion is set up, how is it running and are there any hitches to lookout for?

 

[dwolson2]

Screener, it runs well but I had to measure out the pipe lengths to make sure the siphon was the lowest, then the wet, then the dry. I also didn't want to pull too much water into the sump, so the 3 levels are relatively close(within about 3/4" in the siphon and wet, and the dry is about an inch higher than the wet)

The notch is deeper than the intake on the wet, so water has to go to the siphon side before going down the wet pipe.
I notched it with a hack saw, since it was difficult to get my dremel in there. If you cut it before putting the weir in there, a dremel would be fine.

Now that the system is in my garage, its silent, and I have plugged my return(with the ball valve) without any problems. The loudest thing on my whole system is my skimmer air intake(which I am going to put a muffler on shortly)

I also ran a simulated, and as of yesterday, real power outage simulation, there were no problems with siphoning in my tank. The weir is 3" deep and an inch wide if memory serves me correctly.

 

[Screener]

Screener, it runs well but... snip ...
I notched it with a hack saw, since it was difficult to get my dremel in there. If you cut it before putting the weir in there, a dremel would be fine.

Thanks DW, My overflow towers are glass. Are yours?? I never knew you could cut it with a hacksaw. I'll try on a piece of scrap.

Thanks

 

[Ted_C]

question on returns through an overflow

question on returns through an overflow

I am in the process of re-plumbing my system to support a coast to coast and beananimal overflow.

My drains are approx 6" from the top of the tank.

My returns are approx 3" from the top of the tank.

My acrylic overflow box measures 7 3/4" high and 5 inches deep.

Drains are already plumbed but I'm having an issue understanding what to do with the returns. I've become attached to the locline set-up I have (2x locline 3/4" npt to a locline wye with two 6" loclines and a 1/2" nozzle) - so I'd like to continue to use it.

I can't go over the box - as an anti-siphon has already been drilled into the locline and the locline is only 6".

The PVC adapter (3/4" to 1") has been glued into the 1" bulkhead that's in the glass

Can I go through the overflow box with bulkheads and 3/4" nipples to the threaded 3/4" bulkhead and my threaded 3/4" adapter that's in my glass hole bulkhead?

Has anyone else ever tried plumbing returns through an overflow box instead of "up and over"?

If I install bulkheads into the acrylic overflow box - will this introduce a "noisemaker" as water falls in the overflow over the bulkheads?

Thanks!

 

[dwolson2]

Thanks DW, My overflow towers are glass. Are yours?? I never knew you could cut it with a hacksaw. I'll try on a piece of scrap.

Thanks

No, mine is abs plastic, I'm not sure how you would cut glass. You could always remake them if you really wanted. The other option is to use a hole saw (diamond bit) in the bottom of the overflows, then put bulkheads in the holes then connect the holes with a pipe. If you did it at the very bottom, sand could cover the pipe but the only benefit you would have is the bean animal design. My tank has a c2c and bean animal, but I got lucky with abs overflows. You could unsilicone the glass, have it notched at a shop, then reinstall it too.

 

[captainsmitty]

lots of good info!

 

[dwolson2]

I am in the process of re-plumbing my system to support a coast to coast and beananimal overflow.

My drains are approx 6" from the top of the tank.

My returns are approx 3" from the top of the tank.

My acrylic overflow box measures 7 3/4" high and 5 inches deep.

Drains are already plumbed but I'm having an issue understanding what to do with the returns. I've become attached to the locline set-up I have (2x locline 3/4" npt to a locline wye with two 6" loclines and a 1/2" nozzle) - so I'd like to continue to use it.

I can't go over the box - as an anti-siphon has already been drilled into the locline and the locline is only 6".

The PVC adapter (3/4" to 1") has been glued into the 1" bulkhead that's in the glass

Can I go through the overflow box with bulkheads and 3/4" nipples to the threaded 3/4" bulkhead and my threaded 3/4" adapter that's in my glass hole bulkhead?

Has anyone else ever tried plumbing returns through an overflow box instead of "up and over"?

If I install bulkheads into the acrylic overflow box - will this introduce a "noisemaker" as water falls in the overflow over the bulkheads?

Thanks!

can you post pictures up of your set up, so We make sure we understand what your asking?

 

[Ted_C]

I do not have the coast to coast in hand yet - but here's an idea of what I'm working with

So I took out the skimmer bar and replaced with three 90's for the beananimal method. Locline's are right underneath the skimmer bar...

Hopefully, you can imagine how the returns will be pretty much in the center of the overflow box (vertical center).

Do I scrap the locline and go up and over or can I go straight through the overflow box with bulkheads?

 

[uncleof6]

Me, I would go up and over. I don't care for locline/robofittings and the ilk. Too restrictive. (too small diameter.)

 

[Ted_C]

Any ideas or pics for a slick, aesthetically pleasing up and over?

 

[uncleof6]

Putting a hood on the tank? An up an over is what it is, works good, but hard to hide.....you can use the "stage effect" and paint it black, as on stage, it will sorta disappear....

 

[rynsvt]

So far, so good. The last piece of pipe on each channel going into the sump is temporary until I'm pleased with it's position, and I had them too deep into the water at first. I couldn't figure out why it had more flow from the open channels than the siphon channel, so I reread the entire thread and figured it out. Once I drilled a small hole in the two siphon channel pipes, it works great. I'm going to replace the two end pieces of eggcrate in the overflow boxes with acrylic to try to change the water flow into the box. The loudest part of the tank if the water flowing into the box.

Where did you get your over flow box?

 

[CarlitosReef]

I need a response today ASAP would be appreciated since I have to place an order today.

I have a 55g with around 40g sump. I was thinking in doing a beananimal overflow style. But should I go with a 1" slip x slip bulkhead and finish with a 1.5" pvc? For both my return and overflow. Or should I go with a 3/4" bulkhead and finish with a 1" pvc. I'm trying to avoid having to buy 2 drill bits since I'm trying to work with a budget but also do a decent set up.




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[knight2255]

Can I use one of these to hook up the airline to the open channel cap?

 

[jduck]

I need a response today ASAP would be appreciated since I have to place an order today.

I have a 55g with around 40g sump. I was thinking in doing a beananimal overflow style. But should I go with a 1" slip x slip bulkhead and finish with a 1.5" pvc? For both my return and overflow. Or should I go with a 3/4" bulkhead and finish with a 1" pvc. I'm trying to avoid having to buy 2 drill bits since I'm trying to work with a budget but also do a decent set up.

Depends on the pump your planning on running.

3/4" gives you about 660 GPH, over 10x flow. so unless you are running a big return pump
1" is 960 GPH

 

[CarlitosReef]

Depends on the pump your planning on running.

3/4" gives you about 660 GPH, over 10x flow. so unless you are running a big return pump
1" is 960 GPH

Well I have a mag 9 and a mag 12 laying around.
So if i do go with a 3/4" bulkhead I can use a 1" pvc right and shouldn't have a problem finding the similar parts at 1"????
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[knight2255]

Depends on the pump your planning on running.

3/4" gives you about 660 GPH, over 10x flow. so unless you are running a big return pump
1" is 960 GPH

Just wanted to add since I just saw this in another thread here...3/4" siphon max flow with 4-5 feet head goes down to around 450 then you have multiply .85 for friction losses so around 375gph

 

[CarlitosReef]

Just wanted to add since I just saw this in another thread here...3/4" siphon max flow with 4-5 feet head goes down to around 450 then you have multiply .85 for friction losses so around 375gph

So that being said my siphon drain would be slower?

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[knight2255]

So that being said my siphon drain would be slower?

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This should help, top is pumping rate, bottom is max siphon rate