Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Second Gen RLSS have a different controller that CAN be hooked up to a seperate controller via RJ45 connectors. The point really is why would you want to? Most of the stuff folks use 'controlled pumps' for is pretty useless applications. They don't accomplish anything of real value. These pumps are more applicable to the the very things you don't see the point of, when actually they are more important points than 'not externally controllable.' As far as a pump falling out of its efficiency range, care to share what the efficiency range of these pumps is? The pump is speed controllable. The watts consumed drops as the flow rate is decreased. I don't know what you are getting a, but I doubt it is a valid concern.

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On the hearsay badmouthing of DC pumps:

Most problems with these pumps some time ago, were blown out of proportion and included many false reports of problems, by folks that did not even own one of these pumps, and had never even seen one first hand. Some of it was due to a gripe concerning the UL listing. One pump failed, was under warranty, RLSS replaced the pump, and the end user demanded an out of line amount of money...along with the replacement pump.

I have been running the RLSS 1st Gen pumps, for darn near three years now with not a single issue. I have been running 2nd Gen RLSS pumps for a bit over a year now. I recommend them highly, but if you don't take care of it, and it fails, it is your fault, not the pumps or RLSS's. The bad reports are for the most part just repeating what some one else repeated, several years ago. They involve the 1st Gen pumps. The 2nd Gen pumps have been redesigned.

The bottom line is, if one had not run one of these pumps, they are not going to have any knowledge or information on these pumps, that does not fall into the category of hearsay.

Care to read something that is not hearsay?

http://www.beananimal.com/other/waveline-dc5000-variable-speed-dc-pump.aspx
 
I'll look into RLSS DC4000, can it be used internal/external or only an external pump? I will not have room for an external pump. Second, I am sure it is not a big deal but will using a regular 1" Tee be a big difference from the 1.5" Sanitary Tee BeanAnimal used? Im talking about the difference in the Tee not in size...
 
Maybe efficiency was the wrong word. I just mean, why buy a pump that cost more money and is physically larger when you are going to turn it down. I was told by several people that the MK II still didn't have controllability. I guess they were wrong. My purpose for ramping them up and down is to use several of them on a closed loop system, so I can turn them up and down opposite each other to give a more random flow, or to turn the gyre rotation several times a day. Maybe even turn them all up to 100% a few times a day to really churn things up. I had also heard that the newer models are reliable. Aquarium Specialty recently posted that they have had to warranty out 2/3s of the Mk I models because they burned up the controllers. They personally didn't have one that lasted more than 2 years. That might be a little more than hearsay. If the new ones are controllable, I'm probably going to get 2 of them!
 
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Maybe efficiency was the wrong word. I just mean, why buy a pump that cost more money and is physically larger when you are going to turn it down. I was told by several people that the MK II still didn't have controllability. I guess they were wrong. My purpose for ramping them up and down is to use several of them on a closed loop system, so I can turn them up and down opposite each other to give a more random flow, or to turn the gyre rotation several times a day. Maybe even turn them all up to 100% a few times a day to really churn things up. I had also heard that the newer models are reliable. Aquarium Specialty recently posted that they have had to warranty out 2/3s of the Mk I models because they burned up the controllers. They personally didn't have one that lasted more than 2 years. That might be a little more than hearsay. If the new ones are controllable, I'm probably going to get 2 of them!

You are supposed to size the pump appropriately, for the system size. In most cases, the hobbyist choice of flow rate is the problem, not the available pump choices. The flow rates, are antiquated, and should be much higher, like for a 100 gallon tank, the flow rate should be up around 1000gph, not 500gph.

The problem with the controllers was due to overheating caused by abuse of the equipment. You cannot block the air cooling for the controller, or it will burn up. This was not a design flaw, it was totally user error. The pumps were repaired/parts sent, or replaced. The controllers were redesigned so the cooling fan is no longer there. I have been running gen Is for almost 3 years, and never a problem. So yes, the bad mouthing is hearsay. Bean has also been running gen Is for most of three years as well, and no problems with them that I am aware of. I have a couple Gen IIs running for a year or so, no problems yet. (Gen IIs were redesigned; the controller, volute, and impeller.)

The problem with most hearsay, is folks take it as fact, yet don't bother to trace it back to the origins, to get a better view of it, rather than the "misinterpretation" due to exaggeration, and telephone syndrome.
 
We're running. 1" bulkheads, 1 1/2" piping. I had to adjust it once I redid my return, but about 3:15-3:30 we're dead silent.

I did it my build thread, but many thanks to Bean and Uncleof6 and countless others who have taken the time to answer my hundreds, if not thousands of questions, sometimes repeatedly.

Only issue I had wasn't getting the skim over the whole overflow box, but nothing a shim couldn't fix.

Works great, and have started the cycling process.
 
Congrats!

Rather annoying how water insists on being level all the time!

Shimming a stand/tank isn't something you can do with he tank full, so if you need to shim the tank, you should empty it and shim it now, before you start your cycle.
 
With how I built the stand, I was able to get some shims under the corner I needed. Being on carpet helped, immensely
 
Yes as long as you don't use monster bulkheads, use 1" bulkheads, and 1" pipe. Use 1.25" pipe for the open channel.
 
I will drill tomorrow my 40 gal. breeder. It will be mixed reef with 20 gal. sump. What size bulkheads and drain pipes should I use? Im thinking of drilling 3-1" holes for bulkheads. Siphon 3/4" pvc. Open Channel and Emergency line 1". Is that ok? Let me know, please. Thanks. Art
 
I just saw post above. 40 breeder I look probably around 600-800 gal. turnaround. Is better to use 1" for syphon and emergency and 1.25 for open channel?
 
So Im in the process of drilling my 40 breeder now. Do you think I can buy 16" long overflow somewhere for my tank? Or could I make it somehow? I spread 1" wholes so total for 3 holes is 12" so I need bigger box. Any good place to buy or should I go to Lowes and buy acrylic make teeth somehow and glue together? Never didi that before and acrylic doesn't bond good to glass, right? :(. Let me know soon, please. Thanks Art.
 
So Im in the process of drilling my 40 breeder now. Do you think I can buy 16" long overflow somewhere for my tank? Or could I make it somehow? I spread 1" wholes so total for 3 holes is 12" so I need bigger box. Any good place to buy or should I go to Lowes and buy acrylic make teeth somehow and glue together? Never didi that before and acrylic doesn't bond good to glass, right? :(. Let me know soon, please. Thanks Art.

If you have a glass tank, then you can use a glass overflow and use silicone which is very easy.
 
Hello all!
I'm new on reefcentral. I'm sorry, but my english is so bad. I hope you can help me. I will drill my 200 gal. tank this week. My first question:
These holes are in right place ?

holes.png~original


I want to build a freshwater aquarium with sump for biological filtration. For my biofilter medias not necessary high flow, probably 600-800 GPH is enough, but MAXIMUM 1500. So I don't know yet. Between 600 and 1500 GPH :/. I see in this thread big bulkheads with low flow can cause problems in the full siphon, so 1" bulkhead is enough, but I'm confused about size of pipe. Uncleof6 wrote in 8255 1" pipe is enough for 600-800 GPH so it is clear. What do you think what is the maximum flow for 1" bulkhead+1" pipe? Must I use 1" bulkhead+1.5" piping for around 1000 GPH? And 1300-1500? The length of tube: 25 inches (vertical pipe). Thanks for your help!
 
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How to do it with glass? Buy to pieces and silicon them together and then to back wall, coast to coast? Glass is heavy, what if the two pieces fall apart? Sorry maybe thats stupid, I just want to do it right..
If you have a glass tank, then you can use a glass overflow and use silicone which is very easy.
 
How to do it with glass? Buy to pieces and silicon them together and then to back wall, coast to coast? Glass is heavy, what if the two pieces fall apart? Sorry maybe thats stupid, I just want to do it right..

This is off topic for this thread. It is not a stupid question, but it has been answered many times else where. This thread deals the drain system, not the construction of the overflow. At least not more than in passing. A new thread would be a more appropriate place for this question. :)
 
Im sorry about that. I will try to find answer somewhere else. Im sure I will have more question right for this thread while Ill be going forward with my tank… ;)
This is off topic for this thread. It is not a stupid question, but it has been answered many times else where. This thread deals the drain system, not the construction of the overflow. At least not more than in passing. A new thread would be a more appropriate place for this question. :)
 
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