Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
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sleepydoc
Team RC
It ultimately depends what fittings you use and the placement of the holes. I have a thread that goes through the design process for my 120. You probably can't use the dimensions, but the process should help. I don't have the link right now, but I'm pretty sure I posted it recently on this thread
sleepydoc
Team RC
Dkuhlmann
New member
:thumbsup: Thanks doc!
StrangeDejavu
Member
Hello
I have designed my Bean Animal and I just wanted to get some clarification if this will work correctly and the measurements are okay.
If every other measurement looks correct I will just need the depth (front to back) and height (top to bottom) that you would recommend the weir box.
I will drill 34mm holes for 1 inch bulk head. Will that fit correctly? and the inlet will also be 1" if that is all good please let me know?
Thanks
Have you figured the width of the box yet? I'm back to considering internal again for my 40 breeder. If I could use a tape measure and get a visual of the LWH of the box, I think it'd make the decision easy for me.
Also, general question: If I use 1 inch PVC for my 40b, do I also use 1 inch bulkheads?
Last edited:
TonyFerren
New member
Yes....tell me more...
:reading:
:reading:
sleepydoc
Team RC
Here's the reply I posted to smellsfishy90 in another thread he started with the same question:
re: bulkheads, yes, I'd use 1" bulkheads. You could go down to ¾" bulkheads with 1" pipes just to make the holes a bit smaller, but it probably won't help you at all.
If you're trying to visualize, have you tried making a model on Sketchup? It's great for laying out things like this.
re: bulkheads, yes, I'd use 1" bulkheads. You could go down to ¾" bulkheads with 1" pipes just to make the holes a bit smaller, but it probably won't help you at all.
If you're trying to visualize, have you tried making a model on Sketchup? It's great for laying out things like this.
Purchased a bean animal style overflow box off ebay. It didn't come with any pipework so I've done the best possible with what I was able to find here. As I understand it, I only need a valve (preferably gate valve) on the main siphon? I'm a bit concerned that the outer box sits so low (1.5" lower than inner box), but it was necessary to get around the plastic trim on my tank. Does everything look right here?
sleepydoc
Team RC
Yes. The only valve you need is on the full siphon channel, and a gate valve is preferred to make fine tuning the system easier.
It's preferable to have the external box the same heght as the internal box, but if you can't beause of the trim I wouldn't worry too much. Make sure the top of the dry emergency is low enough that the box doesn't overflow when it kicks in.
For an external box with the holes on the bottom you don't need the elbows on the siphon channel. You may need to adjust the height of the open channel plumbing; ultimately, that's what will set the operating depth.
It's preferable to have the external box the same heght as the internal box, but if you can't beause of the trim I wouldn't worry too much. Make sure the top of the dry emergency is low enough that the box doesn't overflow when it kicks in.
For an external box with the holes on the bottom you don't need the elbows on the siphon channel. You may need to adjust the height of the open channel plumbing; ultimately, that's what will set the operating depth.
Swope2bc
New member
Swope2bc
New member
Wow, sweet!!! So basically just tune it to ensure no air gets sucked down in a siphon vortex. The open channel still gets the upside down U with airline tube set just above the dry channel?
sleepydoc
Team RC
Yes - Bean used the elbow in his original design because he had an internal coast to coast overflow with bulkheads on the side. For your purposes, the main issue would be the vortices entraining air from the surface. If your box is too shallow to avoid the vortex, you can put the elbows back on. It ultimately depends on the box, the operating depth of water in the box and how much flow you're running
The open channel is as you described.
The open channel is as you described.
I am currently working on my new build and need some suggestions for my bean animal overflow. I also have a few questions about it.
The overflow is an external overflow that measures 18 x 4 x 8. Water will flow to the external overflow via built in weirs. My goal is to be running around 1200-1800GPH. My sump has 3 inlets. 2 x 1.5" and 1x1".
Question 1) Would it be ok to have my bean animal use the following: 1" full siphon, 1.5" open channel and 1.5" emergency?
Question 2) Will a 1" be able to handle 2000GPH or less?m What is the max for the 1" siphon?
Question 3) When I build this system what parts should I actually glue together? Do I glue the Bean animal to my bulk heads, or would a tight slip fitting with some teflon tape be ok? I assume I glue everything else
Question 4) How do I determine how high or low the tee's go in the overflow? I want this to be as silent as possible. So when water drops into the overflow I would like that drop to be silent as possible....but also a safe distance.
The overflow is an external overflow that measures 18 x 4 x 8. Water will flow to the external overflow via built in weirs. My goal is to be running around 1200-1800GPH. My sump has 3 inlets. 2 x 1.5" and 1x1".
Question 1) Would it be ok to have my bean animal use the following: 1" full siphon, 1.5" open channel and 1.5" emergency?
Question 2) Will a 1" be able to handle 2000GPH or less?m What is the max for the 1" siphon?
Question 3) When I build this system what parts should I actually glue together? Do I glue the Bean animal to my bulk heads, or would a tight slip fitting with some teflon tape be ok? I assume I glue everything else
Question 4) How do I determine how high or low the tee's go in the overflow? I want this to be as silent as possible. So when water drops into the overflow I would like that drop to be silent as possible....but also a safe distance.
sleepydoc
Team RC
- Probably. Depending on the head height and plumbing you may be pushing the limits of a 1" siphon. Is enlarging the hole in the sump an option? You can also use 1.25" plumbing for everything except the final connection to the sump.
- See my answer to #1. It depends on the head height and the plumbing. Beananimal has a calculator on his web site. A 1" siphon at a 36" drop has a theoretical flow rate of 2041 gph, so you're pushing things pretty close.
- If it would cause a problem when it comes apart it should be glued. Anything external should definitely be glued. If there are parts you need to be able to disassemble, use unions. Some people don't glue the internal fittings for the siphon line. This usually works, but sometimes you can get small amounts of air that gets sucked in round the non-glued fitting. The other internal fittings can generally be left unglued without an issue.
- Hard to answer without seeing your overflow. Can you post a pic/diagram?
First of all thank you so much for helping me out here sleepydoc.
1) Unfortunately enlarging the hole is not an option on the sump. So what would be my best alternative here? 1.25" bulkhead with 1.25" pipe and convert down to 1" right at the sump? Does this give me more flow than a 1" run or does converting it from 1.25" to 1" give me nothing?
2) Very cool.
3) That helps. Thanks!
4) Unfortunately I have no diagram yet of the overflow. The tank is being build now by planet aquarium.
ElecEngineer
New member
Do the elbows on the siphon in the tank need to be pointed downward? My tank is drilled about a foot below the surface and in order to create less water in the sump that is siphoned out due to the pump shutting off, I would like to point them upwards. Is this ok??
Please help and thanks!
Please help and thanks!
rickztahone
New member
1)yes, this is fine
2)yes. I can't remember exactly the numbers for the 1" siphon but it is around 1,500-2000 if I remember correctly.
3)Cement everything together except the parts inside the overflow box. Those can be pressure fit.
4)The best method, from my research is to have the middle part of the downturned elbow(s) be the same height as the pass through holes. This way, both levels, in the inner and outer overflow box are almost the same height. This cuts back on noise.
sleepydoc
Team RC
If they are that far below the surface then yes. Bean's original design had the down turned ells because he had a relatively shallow coast to coast overflow with bulkheads in the side of the tank.
you do have an overflow, right? The overflow should limit the amount of back siphoning to the volume of the overflow box. I would post a pic/diagram of your setup so people can look at it. It's hard to tell for sure from your short description.
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