Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
I need some help with my overflow. Attached are the pictures of my system it is completely up and running so taking it down and redoing is not an option. There are no issue wen the tank is running. However, when I turn the main pump off to feed or the power goes out the main drain doesn't want to start back up. It's almost like it airlocks. Every time I have to pull the section of pipe then connect it back and it goes and every thing is normal. I have tried to leave it to see if it would start on it's own and have had no luck. The overflow box fills and drains down the emergency.
The pipe closest is the main, middle is the emergency and the far is the other drain that feeds the fuge.
The pipe closest is the main, middle is the emergency and the far is the other drain that feeds the fuge.
If you are referring to me than yes they are in socks. However, I read that as long as the end of the pipe was below the surface of the water 2-3 inches it was fine.
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
I need some help with my overflow. Attached are the pictures of my system it is completely up and running so taking it down and redoing is not an option. There are no issue wen the tank is running. However, when I turn the main pump off to feed or the power goes out the main drain doesn't want to start back up. It's almost like it airlocks. Every time I have to pull the section of pipe then connect it back and it goes and every thing is normal. I have tried to leave it to see if it would start on it's own and have had no luck. The overflow box fills and drains down the emergency.
The pipe closest is the main, middle is the emergency and the far is the other drain that feeds the fuge.
I also think it is in the main siphon drain at the sock. The pipe must only be about 1/2" below the water surface.
From the first pic it looks like you have two socks. You are not teeing the main siphon into both socks are you? If you are that is certainly the issue.
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
1/2" to 1" under the water level. If they are too deep, it will have trouble purging air on startup.
90 degree bends aren't good either.
1/2" to 1" under the water level. If they are too deep, it will have trouble purging air on startup.
90 degree bends aren't good either.
hbash
New member
Thunderfan
New member
In the early stages of this thread I also read where bean advised someone to drill a couple small hole just above the water line to help purge the air. Guy had a similar problem and it fixed it right up.
Thunderfan
New member
I need some help with my overflow. Attached are the pictures of my system it is completely up and running so taking it down and redoing is not an option. There are no issue wen the tank is running. However, when I turn the main pump off to feed or the power goes out the main drain doesn't want to start back up. It's almost like it airlocks. Every time I have to pull the section of pipe then connect it back and it goes and every thing is normal. I have tried to leave it to see if it would start on it's own and have had no luck. The overflow box fills and drains down the emergency.
The pipe closest is the main, middle is the emergency and the far is the other drain that feeds the fuge.
I'm curious how much flow you are doing and does it run quite? I would like to use 1" pipe on mine but people have me worried it won't be big enough. Only a 75g tank and going to shoot for about 800gph.
In the overflow or in the sump
I'm running a Jebao DC9000 on full power for my display. I have never had any issues with the drains not being about to handle the amount of flow. I would estimate that with my current plumbing I'm pushing on average 1800-2000gph. I will reply to your PM as well.
Thunderfan
New member
In the sump just above water line.
uncleof6
Active member
What size is the return plumbing after the tee? If it is 3/4", as it appears to be, you are not flowing anywhere near 1800gph... With 1" bulkheads, and the short drop, you are probably not doing more than ~ 1200gph, not with 1" pipe, through the drains. With the tee in the return probably less than that. That would be with the siphon wide open. If you want to run that sort of flow rate, you are going to have to do some serious redesigning to get there. I don't know where your information is coming from, (you said you read the pipe outlets should be 2 - 3" under the sump water level,) but it has been coming from a poorly informed source. I don't expect you to know it all, but those that you take advice from should know more, and generally there is more bad information running around than good.
I don't have time to go through your system right now, but later perhaps. One thing I am sure that is not going to come up is where you are dumping the open channel. It should be right next to the siphon, and there is absolutely not enough flow in the open channel (or should not be) to feed a fuge. The full flow of the system is not too much flow for a "fuge," but generally they should be fed from a branch in the return line, rather than a drain.
hbash
New member
Two issues though come to mind. One is that to get the "silent" overflow effect you need to have the syphon standpipe 1/2" to 1" below water in sump and the second is that since as a sock gets dirty the water level in it will rise, you'll never get the system quite tuned as the depth in water will vary with time and grime.
Lavoisier
Premium Member
Uncle, I am baffled by the "break-in" period. What changes? My system has been up and running for about 6 weeks (plus a week running fresh water) and the first couple of weeks it had difficulty purging the air out of the siphon--it took a long time and I usually lost patience and "fixed" it myself. Then at some point it just started working perfectly. 
What are the physics (or magic) that account for the difference?
What are the physics (or magic) that account for the difference?
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
Make sure your drains are only submerged 1/2" to an inch below the water surface in the sump. Any deeper and you will see issues when purging the air out of the drains.Uncle, I am baffled by the "break-in" period. What changes? My system has been up and running for about 6 weeks (plus a week running fresh water) and the first couple of weeks it had difficulty purging the air out of the siphon--it took a long time and I usually lost patience and "fixed" it myself. Then at some point it just started working perfectly.
hbash
New member
Absolutely, but in the long run, terminating in a sock will amount to a varying depth for the standpipe and thus some variation in the associated back pressure/tuning, no?
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