Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[88rxna]

possible but unlikely. I would first check the breather hole on the open channel to ensure it's not clogged with salt creep. and move on from there. If it's clogged then the open channel is trying to become a full siphon as well, which will prevent your full siphon to purge. if you outfitted your open channel with a ball valve, close it off and see if you can purge the air from your full siphon. That should point you down the right path.

Thanks for the reply. I checked the breather hole and it is not clogged. I am currently trying to purge the siphon channel by closing the open channel..it's slowly filling until the emergency drain begins to do its job..I then open the open channel and I can hear the air from the breather hole, it immediately goes back to normal level I have it set at with no results to fixing the air trapped..

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[88rxna]

Also, if I place my finger over the breather ot does not cause the open channel to become a full siphon

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[Sisterlimonpot]

Is there a way for you to post a picture of your configuration?

 

[88rxna]

I took the air line off earlier...it's going back on tonight..let me know if you need more photos.
The returns go into a 50 gallon sump jist below in the basement.
2 45 elbows are used on each line..

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[Djbeasley05]

I took the air line off earlier...it's going back on tonight..let me know if you need more photos.
The returns go into a 50 gallon sump jist below in the basement.
2 45 elbows are used on each line..

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You can try shortening the full siphon to around 1/4 inch below the water surface in the sump. That might help it purge the air easier.


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[Lsufan]

It looks like u have a coupling on the syphon close to where it enters the sump. If it isn’t glued I would just remove the pipe after the coupling & see if it helps. It will be loud at the sump but it will let u know if that is the issue. If it is then cut the pipe to where it is just below the water level in the sump.

 

[88rxna]

It looks like u have a coupling on the syphon close to where it enters the sump. If it isn't glued I would just remove the pipe after the coupling & see if it helps. It will be loud at the sump but it will let u know if that is the issue. If it is then cut the pipe to where it is just below the water level in the sump.

Thank you for the tip. I will give it a try and report back.

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[88rxna]

Unfortunately that didn't not work. I removed that section near the sump to try and purge the line with no luck.

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[DougSupreme]

you have an air leak somewhere in the siphon line and the open channel. I'd bet the leak is at the threaded caps.

 

[88rxna]

Something must have moved the other day when i was doing maintenance.
I guess I wait for salt creep to find my leak
Any other ideas? I wonder if the valve is leaking somehwere.
Funny thing is, is it didn't loosen those caps since it started up years ago?

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[88rxna]

https://youtu.be/tNxIev7-uL0

Think I found my leak...
Taking it apart and cleaning it out now..gonna make sure the rubber seal is good and cleaned

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[Lsufan]

U may find that u just need to tighten it a little. The gasket may have compressed a little over time so it isn’t as tight as it used to be.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

I'm glad you found it... it's so obvious now that you posted that video...

 

[88rxna]

Still sucking air..I may have to replace the union.
I can not get it to stop sucking air no matter how tight I get it..
Any suggestions?

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[Sisterlimonpot]

You may have the right idea, anything that you do to try to repair it would be the equivalent of putting a band aid on it.

You can try cleaning the area and slopping on tons of glue, but replacing everything from the valve down would be best. You can also use this a s a perfect opportunity to put the required gate valve on it rather than a ball valve, that way you have better control over the full siphon.

 

[Zalick]

I've been running a 1.5" bean animal setup on my 300 w/ 100g sump for about 4 years. I run about 700gph through my sump and have no plans to ever increase that amount. I overbuilt the bean animal after reading through both of these threads and tons of others.

The drop from tank to sump is about 4'.

I'm building a new 300 tank and setting up a new bean animal. James, with Envision, suggested 1" siphon and open channel with a 1.5" emergency would be plenty.

The flow charts I saw show that 1" at full siphon will give me 960gph min up to 2200gph at average pressure.

Does anyone see any issues with going with 1"?

Thanks!

 

[DougSupreme]

I ran 1.5" for all 3 pipes when I built mine. Granted, I'm running about 3k GPS thru the sump on a 225g tank

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[Sisterlimonpot]

I've been running a 1.5" bean animal setup on my 300 w/ 100g sump for about 4 years. I run about 700gph through my sump and have no plans to ever increase that amount. I overbuilt the bean animal after reading through both of these threads and tons of others.

The drop from tank to sump is about 4'.

I'm building a new 300 tank and setting up a new bean animal. James, with Envision, suggested 1" siphon and open channel with a 1.5" emergency would be plenty.

The flow charts I saw show that 1" at full siphon will give me 960gph min up to 2200gph at average pressure.

Does anyone see any issues with going with 1"?

Thanks!

I was always under the impressing that the whole purpose for the 1.5" pipe wasn't so much for flow rate as it is for larger area inside the pipe to allow the water cascade down the open channel without it gurgling and flushing. If you're adamant about using smaller diameter piping, I would suggest that at the very least you have the emergency and the open channel at 1.5" and make the full siphon 1". Honestly though, if you're going to do that, you might as well keep all three of them 1.5".

 

[Lsufan]

I would go with 1.5” for the reasons sisterlimonpot mentioned. Yes a 1” syphon can handle your flow, but a 1” open channel can’t handle anywhere close to what a 1.5” can a remain quiet. With 1” on a system that large it won’t be able to take much fluctuation at all & remain quiet. U may find u have to mess with the valve on the syphon more often to keep it quiet. 1” will work with the flow u will have but u may have to tune on the valve every so often to where 1.5” u probably won’t ever have to touch the valve once it’s setup. So if u do decide to use 1” it isn’t something u will have to redo because it doesn’t work, just be prepared to adjust it every once in a while. How often would depend on the system. Personally, 150 gallon tank & up I would go with 1.5”.

I have a manifold off my return pump & with the 1.5” drains I can shut down a reactor or my fuge & not have to touch the valve. If I had to estimate I would say 1.5” can handle between 250 to 350 gph flunctuation in the system & 1” will get loud at about 50 to 100gph. It’s a pretty big difference.

 

[FoothillCorals]

I also have a tank made by James. I had the tank built with 3 x 1.5" I reduced the siphon channel to 1" just after exiting the overflow and kept the plumbing inside the overflow box at 1.5" and it works great. Having both the open / emergency channels at 1.5" just allows more flow and quieter operation. So I suggest 3 x 1.5

You should be happy with your tank he does great work.