Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
The Theiling unit inlet is on the side.
I agree. I've set up only bean animals on all of my systems. Only truly works like a bean animal if the siphon is submerged under the water line and the air can purge from it. If it's not submerged it will never become a true full siphon
If course it will![]()
So a few notes:
If the flow volume is low and and the siphon standpipe is a very large diameter, then you are correct, the area between the valve and the sump may not product a true siphon. In this case submerging the end of the siphon (thus preventing atmospheric pressure from destroying the vacuum) will maintain the siphon. At higher flow volumes this does not become a problem.
We sometimes run into an issue at lower flows, where the volume is not sufficient to purge the standpipe of air. Drilling a small hole or two just above the (running) sump water line can fix this. The small hole will allow the standpipe to purge the air, but is not large enough to fully interfere with the siphon.
An alternative fix would be to place the control valve closer to the sump. This will ensure that he entire length of the standpipe (down to the valve) is always under full siphon.
Cheers...
-Bean
Thanks, after doing a bunch of research yesterday I was afraid of that. Didn't realize some manufacturers tempered glass after drilling till yesterday. I had that thought too, just running it without an emergency drain. I think my sump is big enough to handle the amount of water from the tank of there is a power outage but I'll have to make sure to have a high water sensor in the sump to turn off my return pump if my drains ever clog.2 problems. You can't get another hole into such a tight area and still have enough integrity in the glass and the bigger issue is that there is a strong chance that aquarium has a tempered bottom after it was drilled at factory so cannot be drilled again.
You can engineer something similar (2 drains, no emergency) using both existing holes as drains and just have your return over the top of the aquarium rather than through bottom
AM
Thanks, after doing a bunch of research yesterday I was afraid of that. Didn't realize some manufacturers tempered glass after drilling till yesterday. I had that thought too, just running it without an emergency drain. I think my sump is big enough to handle the amount of water from the tank of there is a power outage but I'll have to make sure to have a high water sensor in the sump to turn off my return pump if my drains ever clog.
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I want the siphon calculator back! I emailed you about that a while back
If course it will![]()
So a few notes:
If the flow volume is low and and the siphon standpipe is a very large diameter, then you are correct, the area between the valve and the sump may not product a true siphon. In this case submerging the end of the siphon (thus preventing atmospheric pressure from destroying the vacuum) will maintain the siphon. At higher flow volumes this does not become a problem.
We sometimes run into an issue at lower flows, where the volume is not sufficient to purge the standpipe of air. Drilling a small hole or two just above the (running) sump water line can fix this. The small hole will allow the standpipe to purge the air, but is not large enough to fully interfere with the siphon.
An alternative fix would be to place the control valve closer to the sump. This will ensure that he entire length of the standpipe (down to the valve) is always under full siphon.
Cheers...
-Bean
I would suggest submerging the siphon standpipe and/or reducing the diameter at the discharge end. You can reduce down a pipe size or use a valve. 1.5" at 15' of head can move a tremendous amount of water.
Ideally, the adjustment would be at the sump end with this much head, but you can likely find a good balance by using a valve near the floor upstairs and submerge/reduce at the sump. Remember, tumbling water and cavitation make noise, a full pipe does not.