Sonny's Rimless Shallow Reef.

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Thanks guys, one more question mike while your here, how would 2 AB special, 1 Kz FP, and 4 aquascience 22k look?

Am I right that the aquascience is like the blue+ but with a bit more color?


Thanks for the help guys, 14 bulbs ain't cheap so I want him to get it right the first time, were going for the 20k look, like yours mike.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14784710#post14784710 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GSMguy
Thanks guys, one more question mike while your here, how would 2 AB special, 1 Kz FP, and 4 aquascience 22k look?

Am I right that the aquascience is like the blue+ but with a bit more color?


Thanks for the help guys, 14 bulbs ain't cheap so I want him to get it right the first time, were going for the 20k look, like yours mike.

I have an Aquascience 22K in my setup and it looks identical to the Blue+. The only difference I have seen it that it gives off a slight actinic effect to my corals.

If he really wants something 20K I would go with 10 Blue bulbs and 4 white.

Maybe:
5 Aquascience 22k
5 Blue+
2 Aquablue Special
2 Fiji Purple
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14784677#post14784677 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kaserpick
Thanks for asking that question! I was wondering myself.

Sonny, in your experience, in an 8x39w ATI PM, do you think this would be an ok lamp choice if I was shooting for a nice blue look?

Blue Plus
Aquablue Special
Blue Plus
Fiji Purple
Blue Plus
Aquablue Special
Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic or some other actinic

I would replace that actinic with another Blue+.

I have seen actinics on T5 and I just dont like them. They dont put out much light and have low PAR. A single Blue+ has more output then two actinic T5's.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14784208#post14784208 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SunnyX
I would use your skimmer as a gauge to measure dosing parameters. If your skimmer is pulling out less waste then I would increase dosage. If you are finding stringy white film on pumps and rockwork then I would cut back on dosing.

I wouldn't worry about over dosing bacteria. I have dosed some pretty large amounts of bacteria in the past without consequence.

I didn't think you could hurt anything by overdosing, but wasn't sure. Thanks!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14784151#post14784151 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SunnyX
Hello. :D

I use 2 cups of carbon a month, run passively in a mesh bag in the sump.

Is the green algae showing up on the rock work or sand? Is it a light color green on the glass?

Just on the glass. The rocks and sand are still fine.
 
Macreefster get new t5 bulbs a couple blue plus and maybe one Fiji purple and an aquascience 22k the pheonix will look great with all those spectrums.
 
thanks gsmguy, while i don't run my t-5's while the halides are on maybe i should. i'll pick up some new t-5 bulbs and give it a shot..... thanks again
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14787021#post14787021 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snaza
Just on the glass. The rocks and sand are still fine.

I wouldn't worry too much about it then. If it is still there or has increased two weeks from now then I would look into it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14789759#post14789759 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by snaza
Thanks. So keep going with the vodka too?

Were you using the Bak before starting out vodka or did you start them out both at the same time?

If you did start them at the same time I would stop with the Vodka for a week and just dose Bak. This way, you will have a good supply of bacteria present in the tank to take advantage of the carbon(vodka) source.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14785025#post14785025 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SunnyX
I would replace that actinic with another Blue+.

I have seen actinics on T5 and I just dont like them. They dont put out much light and have low PAR. A single Blue+ has more output then two actinic T5's.


I don't think the PAR different is that extreme between actinic and blue bulbs. However, I think the same can be said about other sources of actinics, it's the spectra of the actinic that makes the PAR limited, not the bulb or format per se. I have tried some of the more 'European' type where they run 7 aquablues and 3 blue plus, and even 50-50 blue to aquablue, and within a day, I'd have severe bleaching among most acros, and other sps. I've been running a combo similar to what Szymon is running (except with mostly AquaScience bulbs + Fiji Purple) and found that color and growth was good, even with actinic and blue bulbs being the majority ran.

I think with 6-8 T5s over a tank, one could like run all actinic and blue bulbs and still have tremendous growth and color. T5s are *that* good as a power format.

*updated*
PAR
ATI B+ 311
ATI Actinic 137
UVL Super Actinic 210

You are spot on Sonny when talking about ATI Actinic.... Not quite on the UVL SA's. Again, I think this has more to do with the the definition of PAR than anything. I'm running UVL SA next to an ATI Actinic. To my eyes, they appear to be the same output, spectrum, etc. That's obviously *not* the case....
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14792298#post14792298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stony_corals
I don't think the PAR different is that extreme between actinic and blue bulbs. However, I think the same can be said about other sources of actinics, it's the spectra of the actinic that makes the PAR limited, not the bulb or format per se. I have tried some of the more 'European' type where they run 7 aquablues and 3 blue plus, and even 50-50 blue to aquablue, and within a day, I'd have severe bleaching among most acros, and other sps. I've been running a combo similar to what Szymon is running (except with mostly AquaScience bulbs + Fiji Purple) and found that color and growth was good, even with actinic and blue bulbs being the majority ran.

I think with 6-8 T5s over a tank, one could like run all actinic and blue bulbs and still have tremendous growth and color. T5s are *that* good as a power format.

Yeah, t5's really do put out an amazing amount of light.

I was referring to this PAR measurement site when talking about actinic PAR: http://tfivetesting.googlepages.com/par

ATI Blue+ 311

UVL Super Actinic 210
D&D/Giesemann Pure Actinic 157
ATI Actinic 137
 
Thanks for the link to that site.... so was Grim using a Tek fixture to measure those numbers?!? I'm a bit shocked about those AquaScience measurements. When I measured new ATI bulbs and AquaScience in my PowerModule, the AS were higher...

Have you tried the UVL 75/25 bulb?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14792484#post14792484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stony_corals
Thanks for the link to that site.... so was Grim using a Tek fixture to measure those numbers?!? I'm a bit shocked about those AquaScience measurements. When I measured new ATI bulbs and AquaScience in my PowerModule, the AS were higher...

Have you tried the UVL 75/25 bulb?

He was using a TEK fixture with 54W bulbs.

I have never used the UVL 75/25 bulb.

I have an Aquascience 22k bulb and it looks exactly like the Blue+ while giving off a slight actinic "pop".
 
You still dosing coral food sonny, if you are how many times a week, i remember you saying you were going to try rotifeast or something.
 
I am using Oyster Feast by Reef Nutrition and it has made a huge difference in coloring up my dingy SPS. Probably the first food I've ever tried that had an immediate impact. I will probably try Roti Feast when it runs out. I only use 1/2 teaspoon a day on my 90g.

I was up to 3 cubes of mysis a day trying to get my corals to color up when I started Oyster Feast and it made a world of difference. I wish I had taken pictures.

My tank is pretty clean and color is a struggle - I also only run 150w Radiums. I'm going to start Elos aminos this week very slowly to see if I can get a bit more color.

By the way Sunny, love the thread, love your tank, love the tile. You're before and after pics inspired me to creep into vodka/amino dosing. What a huge contribution to the community you have made!
 
That tank is looking outstanding, Sunny. Yours, along with Mike's, really makes me want to go all T5s on my next tank upgrade.
 
Interesting bulb selection Sonny. Am I correct there are no 10K or daylight bulbs? How are finding the growth rate? Whatever the case your tank is looking sweet!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14793221#post14793221 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by volcom69
You still dosing coral food sonny, if you are how many times a week, i remember you saying you were going to try rotifeast or something.

I started using the rotifers with good results but have since scaled back on them. I noticed nutrients begin to rise and I feel it was due to dosing rotifers AND Reefbooster together.

I will start back up with the rotifers next week and dose one teaspoon every other night. The Reefbooster is now dosed once a month as well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14793747#post14793747 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kfick
I am using Oyster Feast by Reef Nutrition and it has made a huge difference in coloring up my dingy SPS. Probably the first food I've ever tried that had an immediate impact. I will probably try Roti Feast when it runs out. I only use 1/2 teaspoon a day on my 90g.

I was up to 3 cubes of mysis a day trying to get my corals to color up when I started Oyster Feast and it made a world of difference. I wish I had taken pictures.

My tank is pretty clean and color is a struggle - I also only run 150w Radiums. I'm going to start Elos aminos this week very slowly to see if I can get a bit more color.

By the way Sunny, love the thread, love your tank, love the tile. You're before and after pics inspired me to creep into vodka/amino dosing. What a huge contribution to the community you have made!

Thank you! :D

I hope everything works out for you in regards to the coloration of your corals. Be sure to start slowly with the AA's and watch for any signs high increasing nutrients. If you are not doing so I would suggest that you run some carbon to clear up the water and allow more light to filter through.
 
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