the deadliest parameter

[Aquarist007]

I do not think the the orginal intention of Sk8r was to start a discussion on what parameter is the most important rather to discuss salinity--which in my view is an excellent parameter to discuss---so are the others--but the point is that this thread is about salinity and the thread got off on a good start until someone misinterpreted the original posters intent

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12898616#post12898616 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erbio
Lesson #1 (which you'll learn sooner or later) is that post count does not correspond to knowledge of the hobby.

It is a fact that salinity is vital but we're discussing which parameter is most vital. [/QUOTE

lesson 2--go to the top 50 posters on reef central and be humbled on how much experience they do have

lesson3--for sure a high point count means dedication and willingness to share knowledge and help others on here.

 

[jenjen]

I have been getting "consistent" 1.025-1.026 readings with my hydrometer for 10 weeks. I just got my refractometer two days ago and my first reading was 1.032!!!

I brought both the hydrometer and the refractometer to a LFS and got the same readings there, and my refractometer is calibrated correctly according to the calibration liquid.

I've been lowering it .01 per day since, and currently am at 1.030 - changing about 1/2 a galon every 1/2 hour or so over a few hours until it goes down .01.

My question - am I lowering the salinity at the correct rate? According to the research I've done it seems a safe pace to go - but all the inhabitants have been fine so far, so really want to be careful with them.

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12899375#post12899375 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jenjen
I have been getting "consistent" 1.025-1.026 readings with my hydrometer for 10 weeks. I just got my refractometer two days ago and my first reading was 1.032!!!

I brought both the hydrometer and the refractometer to a LFS and got the same readings there, and my refractometer is calibrated correctly according to the calibration liquid.

I've been lowering it .01 per day since, and currently am at 1.030 - changing about 1/2 a galon every 1/2 hour or so over a few hours until it goes down .01.

My question - am I lowering the salinity at the correct rate? According to the research I've done it seems a safe pace to go - but all the inhabitants have been fine so far, so really want to be careful with them.

did you use the pin point solution--that is the only solution that is reported by many to be consistently dead on

here is the calibration fluid to use
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsU...248/cl0/pinpointsalinitycalibrationfluid530ms

 

[jenjen]

Originally I used the "pure water" that came with it, but then got pinpoint because I needed to know which of these measurements was correct before doing anything.

Also, my LFS measured his water at 1.026 and mine at 1.032 - and I got the same with my refractometer. Not sure what else to do to confirm my current readings are actually correct.

 

[Agu]

.01 to .02 is about right for daily changes in salinity. They've adapted to the current salinity and abrupt changes can be more damaging than high salinity.

 

[Aquarist007]

Here is a good thread on lowering salinity
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=12590047#post12590047

 

[pledosophy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12899375#post12899375 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jenjen
My question - am I lowering the salinity at the correct rate? According to the research I've done it seems a safe pace to go - but all the inhabitants have been fine so far, so really want to be careful with them.

IME you can go down much quicker then that, it's going up you have to go slowly. I'd go the rest of the way down tonight if you have the time.

JME

 

[Billybeau1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12899480#post12899480 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jenjen
Originally I used the "pure water" that came with it, but then got pinpoint because I needed to know which of these measurements was correct before doing anything.

Also, my LFS measured his water at 1.026 and mine at 1.032 - and I got the same with my refractometer. Not sure what else to do to confirm my current readings are actually correct.

Some refracts are ok with ro/di........ others not.

In my opinion, the Pinpoint 53 mS fluid is the best check as it is a mock seawater sample which will read exactly 35 ppt or 1.0264 on your refractometer.

And for what it is worth.......... IMO......... the deadliest parameter for our tanks is..........
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OXYGEN.

 

[Flipper62]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12899372#post12899372 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12898616#post12898616 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by erbio
Lesson #1 (which you'll learn sooner or later) is that post count does not correspond to knowledge of the hobby.

It is a fact that salinity is vital but we're discussing which parameter is most vital. [/QUOTE

lesson 2--go to the top 50 posters on reef central and be humbled on how much experience they do have

lesson3--for sure a high point count means dedication and willingness to share knowledge and help others on here.

PLUS 2.....right on Capn.

For years I used RO/DI water to calibrate the refractometer. When I started using the PinPoint solutian...I had to adjust the meter ....When I calibrated the meter with the RO/DI to 35 ppt / 1.026.........the PinPoint read 1.024. Now my water is always dead on when I take a water sample in to my LFS.

AS FOR HYDROMETERS.............Plastic crap.....I tested a few of them at my LFS.....There were all off to each other by 2 to 3 points

:hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer::hammer:
Hydrometer..Hydrometer

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12899626#post12899626 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Billybeau1
Some refracts are ok with ro/di........ others not.

In my opinion, the Pinpoint 53 mS fluid is the best check as it is a mock seawater sample which will read exactly 35 ppt or 1.0264 on your refractometer.

And for what it is worth.......... IMO......... the deadliest parameter for our tanks is..........
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.


OXYGEN.

so those plastic diver dan air bubblers are okay for the tank then:lol:

 

[Flipper62]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12899702#post12899702 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by capn_hylinur
so those plastic diver dan air bubblers are okay for the tank then:lol:

Capn......Do I dare take this one...????


Came home to a power outage.......No pumps......no lights......No cliller.........HOWEVER, the cheapy battery backup airater was working.....so the water had Oxygen.

BUT the temp was 90.3.........Hhhhmmmm......dead fish is what I had.

 

[Billybeau1]

Yeh but they don't work in a power failure.

Quick story. I once had a 30 gallon tank with 4 beautiful Monos and some extras. (Brackish tank)

I was out of town for one day..... storm came through..... lost power..... no oxygen....... came home to see dead fish.

I will never forget that day.

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12899870#post12899870 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Flipper62
Capn......Do I dare take this one...????


Came home to a power outage.......No pumps......no lights......No cliller.........HOWEVER, the cheapy battery backup airater was working.....so the water had Oxygen.

BUT the temp was 90.3.........Hhhhmmmm......dead fish is what I had.

the 90 degrees high is probably not what killed your fish--rather how fast the temp rose
Also one little aerator is not enough for a 90 gal tank

Was the airstone placed high in the tank to allow surface circulation and so as not to stir up organic laden water from the bottom of the tank.With the filter off that is where the ammonia concentrates.

I wrote a small article on these battery backup air pumps plus listed an excellent thread of power failure backup systems
It is on this thread

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1424845

 

[Flipper62]

Capn.... Ya this was in my office BioCube....The airstone all good. Its that battery backup one that kicks on when the power goes off.

However...that was my point to that member that said the oxygen was the most importaint thing

 

[jenjen]

Thanks capn & pledosophy - I'll bring the salinity the rest of the way down over this evening & tomorrow. Info is much appreciated.

 

[ToxicPoison]

Excellent info as always guys .

Quick question, what is the preferred salinity for a fresh QT tank (Not treating fish that already sick, but rather new inhabitants).
I've heard keeping the salinity lower (1.010 or so) helps prevent disease breakouts.

Any thoughts on this? I'm sure you'd have to do another acclimation after QT.

Thanks folks! [/B]

Hate to quote my own post, but I think it got lost in the shuffle

Any thinks?

 

[saltee dood]

one last question related to the answers I got.

note.....am not disputing yalls recommendations, Ive read enough to know you know what you are talking about, but why does the instructions say to calibrate with distilled water then?

Im just curious as to why the manufacturer recommends one thing and the in general consensus seems to be otherwise. Why would they say that if it isnt the best way to do it?


on the *correct* topic.....

I really think it tough to say one parameter is more important than another, I think it safe to say that salinity, ph, temp and oxygen are all VERY important things to keep right.

 

[Aquarist007]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12900292#post12900292 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ToxicPoison
Hate to quote my own post, but I think it got lost in the shuffle

Any thinks?

glad you reposted--the conditions in your qt tank should match your display tank
You don't need to stress a healthy fish out with that salinity level
Besides that level is not good for anything
If hyposalinating for ich then the salinity has to be right on 1.009 for 4 weeks
With the conditions being similar when the fish is ready to go in the display tank there is no acclimatizing necessary

 

[Flipper62]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12900303#post12900303 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltee dood
one last question related to the answers I got.

note.....am not disputing yalls recommendations, Ive read enough to know you know what you are talking about, but why does the instructions say to calibrate with distilled water then?

Im just curious as to why the manufacturer recommends one thing and the in general consensus seems to be otherwise. Why would they say that if it isnt the best way to do it?


My respond........

One thing that people need to remember....There are a lot of refractometers out there that are made for other things.

Such as anti-freeze....AND they are being sold everywhere....Like Ebay....

If you buy a good Refractormeter...made for Saltwater..... From a someone like Aquacave......a Sybon meter is only $49.95.

Its made for Saltwater & using the PinPoint to calibrate it at 35 ppt / 1.026.......You will be dead on.....

www.aquacave.com Albert is an awesome guy