The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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Ok guys, I had a malfunction tonight. The soft air tube tore in half which basically separated the prop in half. Now I used (what I had) the blue air tubing which I'm pretty sure is a little softer and less prone to getting rigid.. and this is where it failed and I probably should of used the clear stuff cause that stuff gets as hard as nails after a while... So be warned anyone using the blue air tubing.
 
pic of break.

100_2553a.jpg
 
Definitely use the clear fexible airline tubing. I have been running mine 24/7 for at least 6 months now with no problems whatsoever.
 
That's why there is a stopper there so that the prop when spinning the wrong way will pull out and hit it , stop, and right itself.

Ok, so how do you cut it?... the Acrylic?

and how big does the stopper need to be, I dont know this... I did look at yours but cant really tell anything...


and how did you cut that acrylic?
 
I did a lot of experimenting tonight. Found out a couple things. I switched out the 1.25 nitro prop with a 1.5" prop on the maxi 1200. I used the flow adjuster casing from a Seio 620 to fit over the prop. Works awesome, or so I thought. I was getting flow close to what a Seio 1500 puts outs. I was only halfway impressed. So, I tired the prop with no guard to see what happened. I couldnt believe it. My 75 gallon tank I was experimenting in turned into a whirlpool. The flow felt easily twice as powerful as my Seio 1500 and spread out in a wider pattern than the 1500. Could the maxi be close to 3000 GPH? Surley not. Im guessing it was easily over 2000 GPH. I was surprised at the wide flow pattern and that it beat the Seio hands down. I wish I owned a Tunze so I could compare that.


Remember, all my GPH estimates are strictly by feel, comparing to Seio pumps.

Anyway, when I put the guard back on, the flow easily got cut in half. I made 3 or 4 crude guards, experimenting with the slot openings and length of the guard. I also put various diameters and lengths of pvc over the bare running prop to see how it effected the flow.

What I came up with is I will need around a 2" diameter pvc in order to not cut down the flow. The 1.5" prop needs quite a bit of space from its blade tips to the wall of the guard. The more room I gave it, the better the flow.

So now I have to try and fit a 2" diameter pvc around the 1.5" prop in order to get the most flow. Im thinking I will start with a PVC test cap when I get one and then adapt that up to a 2" pipe to go over the prop. I cant wait to get it done....
 
This is very true. The more room you have in the casing the more water your propeller will suck in hence more flow. The challenge here is how to attach a 2" PVC pipe onto the MJ body easily.

I have done the 2" PVC pipe with the 1.75" prop also , it wasn't pretty but it worked and very well too I might add. Only thing is. It was way too much flow than what I needed. Never thought I'd ever say "too much flow" but it's true.
 
Now would putting a eductor over the front make any real difference? Not that I want a powerhead that is 12" long, but would it be possible?

rich
 
The one piece impellor is 2 boat props molded into one using STL generated files then precisioned machined using MACH2.

The result of this is one solid prop. No glue involved.

We tested this design with 2 boat props and after combining these props into 1 solid unit we are able to maintain the same flow and gain the durability the 1 piece provides.

The nice part of this impellor is that it snaps together flush with the magnet which can be seen below.




clearimpellor.jpg



I am curious to know the type of waterflow (actual numbers) people are acheiving with their renditions of this mod.

- Matt
 
I wonder though, If you already have access to the tools and computerized milling machine, if you don't mind some constructive criticism, why didn't you make it into one complete screw instead of using a 2 propeller design? Wouldn't a screw with continuous blade curvature and pitch be better and possibly easier to machine? And why such thick blades? Wouldn't sharper edged blades be better for flow? I am no expert in RC boating but we typically sharpen the propeller blades for better performance.

Very nice milling job btw...


D.
 
Thank you for the feedback. Your absolutely right. It is much easier to machine the screw with one continous pitch. I did not get the performance I expected.

When building this mod both performance and durability were kept in mind, hence the thicker blades. I will sharpen the blades and let you know my results.

In the meantime, I'm going to keep my focus on finishing the motorized unit for this bracket. I'm excited to see the results and will be sure to post them.

Thanks,

- Matt
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6628970#post6628970 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GROSSR
Now would putting a eductor over the front make any real difference? Not that I want a powerhead that is 12" long, but would it be possible?

rich

No. Eductors work by converting water pressure into flow via a venturi. There isn't enough pressure or velocity for an educto to even begin to work effectively.
 
definitly join the props. the gap only serves to break the flow and increase resistance.

for maximum flow make a solid screw with a fixed radius equal to the inner diameter of the pipe. if it can push that much water you can essentially pick your flow rate with the pitch of the screw.

Im talking a screw, like a earth drill. not a propeller.
 
I don't guess there's a way to use this diy mod on a closed loop is there? I don't wanna sound dumb but i figured i'd ask. I got a mag 12 on my closed loop system right now and i really wanna do 2 of these for my tank.
 
its not really applicable to it. a closed loop runs off a pump and has some head pressure from the plumbing. putting a propellor or something in the mag 12 or whatever you were imagining would not only reverse the flow, but would basicly cut it to nothing.

its a modification for powerheads. if you want more flow from a closed loop all you can do is use a larger pump.
 
Also, i've got a 70 g with a mag 12 on the return. It's plumbed at the end so i got 2 36" long walls and 1 24" long side for viewing. Just to give you an idea of how it's set up. I was wanting 2 of the mods, one on each side of the overflow on the back wall. Is that too much?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6630455#post6630455 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by areze
its not really applicable to it. a closed loop runs off a pump and has some head pressure from the plumbing. putting a propellor or something in the mag 12 or whatever you were imagining would not only reverse the flow, but would basicly cut it to nothing.

its a modification for powerheads. if you want more flow from a closed loop all you can do is use a larger pump.

That's what i was thinkin. I'll do away with it all together if it's worth it and just have a back up mag 12.
 
I have a mag9 return and 2 of these, plus a weak HOB pump and another regular PH on a 75g. I dont see it as too much flow. but Im characterising too much flow as sand storm, which I dont have with the current placement.
 
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