The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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Now the Dumas 1.75" propeller, I can tell ya that it kicks some serious butt in terms of flow. Too much in fact for my puny 55g tank.

What size tank do you think this would work on?

I was looking to do this 1.75 mod with a mj900 dual dumas on a 90 with wavemaker.

All I need is Tim Allen ooohh aaahh

Hey have you got the MJ900 with the dual dumas on a 90 or do you have the dual nitro turboed on the mj1200 with a wavemaker ooooh aaaah .
 
For a 90g tank, I'm think 2 MJ900's with single 1.75" Dumas props. Each on opposite side of the tank pointing at each other. Yeah... That should do nicely.


D.
 
hey...

I just relized something...

Hey "D"

how long is the Carbon rod? and how long do you cut the 3/16 inch rigid?(duel nitro) (mj1200) how long for the flex?

I also want to know if there is someway I can make a stopper using the rigid...

have my crossbrace rigid airline and then a .5inch peice glued on one end inside?

do you think that would work for a Propeller stop?

How long do you make the PVC housing??? does it matter? how short have you experimented with it?

just curious questions again!
 
I tried that and the prop snaped off the little glued on piece... What I did was I just drilled a hole 3/16 just below the cross brase and stuck a 1/4" piece or so of rigid tube in there as the stop. works great.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6650415#post6650415 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shawnts106
hey...

I just relized something...

Hey "D"

how long is the Carbon rod? and how long do you cut the 3/16 inch rigid?(duel nitro) (mj1200) how long for the flex?

I also want to know if there is someway I can make a stopper using the rigid...

have my crossbrace rigid airline and then a .5inch peice glued on one end inside?

do you think that would work for a Propeller stop?

How long do you make the PVC housing??? does it matter? how short have you experimented with it?

just curious questions again!
 
WO!! yeah.. ok! NOW WE ARE COOKING WITH PAM!

alright.. you got a picture so I can see what exactly it looks.???

What I did was I just drilled a hole 3/16 just below the cross brase and stuck a 1/4" piece or so of rigid tube in there as the stop.

below the top or bottom of the crossbrace?

could I use the same 3/16 inch Rigid instead of the 1/4th?

could you use flex tubing???

let me know what you think
 
I got some 3/16" rigid tubing and the carbon rod will not fit inside. Anyone else have this problem? Are there different inside diameters to the rigid tubing?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6651122#post6651122 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ball
I got some 3/16" rigid tubing and the carbon rod will not fit inside. Anyone else have this problem? Are there different inside diameters to the rigid tubing?


What kind of rigid tubing are you using? If you use the regular 3/16" rigid airline tubing sold in LFS, the carbon rod will fit through easily.



D.
 
Thats exactly where I bought it. I tried drilling it out, but it melts and warps to easy.

I had to place on order from Drs. Foster, so I ordered me a length of their 3/16" rigid tubing. Hopefully that will work.
 
Ball / dhnguyen:

Well after reading most of this thread and all the mods and improvements I have a couple of comments that may explain why some mods get better results than others.

There are two that you may have already noticed to boost performance besides using a double prop:

a) The more inlet area the more flow.
For review sake is to say that the design issue being addressed here is that for the same amount of volume the inlets area shall roughly be equal to the outlet area multiplied by the ratio of the increase in fluid velocity.
In other words, if you increase the water velocity by a factor of 10 then the inlet openings sectional area shall be 10 times larger than the outlet area!
Taking Ball's idea of the reducing fitting as the housing I will just turn it around and use the larger diameter on the pump side while the smaller diameter towards the outlet. This configuration will allow for more and longer slots for the inlet than can be possible by using a stright housing (a coupling or a piece of PVC pipe) and of course more than using the reducing housing with the small diameter toward the pump.

b) I think it was shnguyen ho noticed that when the slots or inlet orifices extend forward beyond the location of the prop the flow is increased. This could be explained by the creation of an eductor effect. Slots at the sides and slightly forward of the prop will allow for the higher flow in the outlet and not the prop itself to dragg in additional flow. So by playing with the lenght of the slots you can increase the flow further but at some point it might reduce the flow velocity so the trick will be to find the optimal lenght for the distance to be reached by the outflow. Longer aquariums you may want higher velocity but less flow, shorter aquariums you may want higher flow but less velocity.

There are some other areas that could be experimented with, as an example: The flow coming out of the prop follows the pattern of a corkscrew swirling around. This swirling effectively shortens the reach of the flow. That cen be partially counteracted if the front brace supporting the end of the shaft can be made as two or three vane shaped flat surfaces installed parallel to the housing. These flat vane surfaces will serve three purposes, will support the front bearing and also will reduce the swirling motion of the discharged flow and work as stoppers in case the start up is in the wrong direction.

So there it is, those were the coments I wanted to make in case you feel like experimenting a bit more.
Enjoy!
 
I have two maxi-streams in my 120G. One has two dumas props and the other has two nitro props.

The two nitro's put out way more flow, and more of a dispersed flow than the dumas props.

Just thought I'd share a little info.
 
Besides the actual PVC housing, the size and pitch of the propellers play a BIG role in the flow rate.


1.25" Nitros are better than 1.25" Dumas
But 1.75" Dumas kicks arse all :lol:
 
The hole was drilled just below the cross brase, the hole is 3/16 to accomadate a piece of rigid tubing. the legnth of the rigid tubing is about 1/4" I'll try and get a pic. Lol but i'll probably snap the hanger off the pump trying to get it out.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6651083#post6651083 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Shawnts106
WO!! yeah.. ok! NOW WE ARE COOKING WITH PAM!

alright.. you got a picture so I can see what exactly it looks.???



below the top or bottom of the crossbrace?

could I use the same 3/16 inch Rigid instead of the 1/4th?

could you use flex tubing???

let me know what you think
 
ok pics... my camera is hit or miss... not the best pics but I think the show it well enough...

100_2560a.jpg


100_2561a.jpg


100_2563a.jpg
 
Just a thought about vibration....
I made my housings short and both of my mj900's(1 prop and 2 prop) are as quiet as they were stock. I would think that being shorter would minimize any inaccuracy in alignment.
 
Just a thought about vibration....
I made my housings short and both of my mj900's(1 prop and 2 prop) are as quiet as they were stock. I would think that being shorter would minimize any inaccuracy in alignment.
 
jdieck,

Thanks for your thoughts. I got a couple more ideas from them.

Also, how important do you think the space between the end of the prop blade and the edge of the housing are? Is it as critical as the intake size or less important? The reason I made my housing go from a small intake diameter to a large output diameter is I seemed to get better flow with more space around the outside of the prop. Your thoughts?
 
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