The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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Here is my first ROUGH CUT

Here is my first ROUGH CUT

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Great diffused flow.

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Ripple picture.

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I found that reusing the original impeller housing made the job go quick and gave an automatic center device for making the cross brace.

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Another view

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I will make a couple more, with a better finish. I am also going to try a 4 bladed prop. The one on my boat spins easier and pushes more water.

Anybody have a link to a 4 blade prop (1.25")
 
to my knowledge there is no such prop. the diameter is just too small to fit 4 blades effectively. real boats of course are larger, ussually have 3 or 4, and newer boats now use counter rotation. which would be fantastic but not realistic for us of course.

btw Im not sure about the whole miter saw, but mine did not work like yours. infact I damn near lost a few fingers when it kept yanking the pipe and shattering it. seems unsafe to me.

I went with a table saw, since pipe is cheap I took about a foot long section, and set the fence to 6". then I set the blade height to leave maybe .5 mm of pipe. and rotated it against the miter guide and fence. for me this was SUPER easy to do, and got a flawless cut through it.

just an alternative if others chop saws dont fit quite as nicely as the OP's did. well... and alterative if you happen to have a table saw... could also use a circular saw with the fence dropped down real low and a friend holding and rotating the tube...

personally though the pipe diameter was too big still, so i took off about .5 mm of the outside of the lip, (using the same method as the tunnel but blade height even lower). then used a dremel to knock off a little bit of the hooks that hold it on. as is I found the hooks were bend out and I was afraid theyd crack off. these 2 mods seemed to make it fit much better.
 
It's not quite as clean I guess but I used the pipe cap method on both of mine. It was easier for me and it works just as well in the end.
 
...
btw Im not sure about the whole miter saw, but mine did not work like yours. infact I damn near lost a few fingers when it kept yanking the pipe and shattering it. seems unsafe to me.
...

This is why I said to use a fine toothed saw blade. The regular large toothed blade will indeed kick the pipe back if you're not careful. Also the direction of the saw teeth and how you installed the blade will affect this too.

For the slots, I used a masonary grinding blade on the miter saw.

Still though anything involving power saws (even a table saw) must be used with caution.


D.
 
I have both hooked up right now but I am going to change the 1200 back to a 900. The 900 runs them just fine and uses less energy. It is unbelievble what two of these on my 215g tank do. It almost seems like too much flow.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6457849#post6457849 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GSerg2
I have both hooked up right now but I am going to change the 1200 back to a 900. The 900 runs them just fine and uses less energy. It is unbelievble what two of these on my 215g tank do. It almost seems like too much flow.


Agreed... Like I've stated previously, I think the MJ1200 will not give you better flow at all unless used with a much larger propeller (1.75"). Infact the MJ900 I found is much quieter as well as use less energy.


D.
 
I can't imagine someone wanting more flow than a couple of these things put out with the Hammer props. But it would be neat to see someone do a 1-3/4" version on a MJ1200 especially if speed boat style props were used.
 
I did one using a 1.75" Dumas prop and yes the flow was substantially more (even when used with a MJ600). The only problem is trying to fit a 2" PVC pipe (which would accomodate the larger prop) onto the MJ body.


D.
 
I haven't tried it yet,but the 1 Ã"šÃ‚¾" prop fits inside a 1Ã"šÃ‚½" coupling,which looks like it will be perfect for this mod.
 
Only thing is it's very difficult to cut slots into a coupling so you would have to settle with drilling inlet holes instead. But yeah that would work.


D.
 
The slots shouldn't be any different that the 1Ã"šÃ‚½" pipe.This is a coupling,not a bushing or adapter.
 
Right... But the coupling is what 3 to 4 inches in length at most? Try holding on to that while cutting the slots and see how easy that will be ;)

I cut the slots in my pipe first THEN cut down to size to what I want the whole thing to be. Safer and easier to control especially when dealing with power saws.

D.
 
I see what you mean.I don't have a table saw.Maybe you could slide the coupling onto a couple of feet of 1Ã"šÃ‚½" pipe to do the slot work.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6459026#post6459026 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rothie
I haven't tried it yet,but the 1 Ã"šÃ‚¾" prop fits inside a 1Ã"šÃ‚½" coupling,which looks like it will be perfect for this mod.

Here it is, 1 Ã"šÃ‚¾" prop fits inside a 1Ã"šÃ‚½" coupling.

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quangtam7

You don't use a cross brace on yours? How are you keeping the whole magnet from being shot out from the pump? Also waht about the reversed spinning?
 
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