The Reef Central Corner Club Thread

A beginning...
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These are some pictures of the setup before converting to a reef.

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__________________
Jason

Current Tank Info: Getting there...

"You cannot allow any of [yourself] to avoid the brutal facts. If [you] start living in a dream world, it's going to be bad."
General "Mad Dog" Mattis
 
Anyone has tried a Marxspect Gyre in their corner tank? Was wondering what type of flow one could expect from this baby in a corner tank setting.
 
Can anyone tell me what this type is and it it prefers low light or high light?
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Hard to tell for sure from the picture, but looks like a Yellow Goniopora. Likes moderate to high lighting and moderate to high flow. Very hard to keep alive, and often considered a throw away coral (does fine for a year or 2 then suddenly dies)

Anyone has tried a Marxspect Gyre in their corner tank? Was wondering what type of flow one could expect from this baby in a corner tank setting.
After seeing them in action, I don't really see how it would work well in a corner bowfront tank. They are more designed for long rectangle tanks where they can get a gyre working. On a corner bowfront, it might work in the vertical position to get a vertical gyre going.
 
Corner Tank Sump in Stand

Corner Tank Sump in Stand

Hi Corner Tank brethren,
I have a drilled 54 gallon corner bow with a canister filter and 2 power heads. I have about 40 lbs of live rock.
I'm convinced that I need to update my setup to include a sump that contains a protein skimmer. I'm considering picking up a 10 gallon tank from Petco and making my own sump, but I have what feel like some pretty foolish questions...

Over and behind the overflow (which is the same height as the tank, in the back center) is just a void, and at the very bottom of the void, in the bottom of the tank there are 2 holes.
I imagine 1 of the holes is for a return line
and the other is for the overflow line.

So, here are my initial questions:
1. If the water level of the display tank rises b/c of the return water overfilling the tank, and the water goes over the black plastic overflow and through the vertical holes where does it go into? What catches the water & directs it into the pipe that goes through the bottom of the tank and into the sump? It just seems like the water would overflow into the void and just make its way through the pre-drilled holes.

2. Is a 10 gallon tank big enough to house a protein skimmer & my heater?

3. Where do you buy the equipment for the sump (the piping, clasps, return extension that i see in so many tank pics)?

4. Is there anything else you'd put in the sump?

5. Should I use baffles? I know they're recommended, but space is short.

6. Anything else I'm missing/not considering?

Apologies for what might seem like silly questions, and or ones that may be answered in the 145+ pgs of this corner thread. Feeling a little overwhelmed and intimadated by this particular piece of my set up that I know I need.

Thanks in advance
:fish1:
 
1 - Your tank should have come with a megaflow overflow kit. That is an adjust able durso standpipe and the return pipe. If it didn't, it's not a big deal since you can build your own. The return line is 3/4" pvc with locline in the tank so you can aim the flow. The standpipe can be made from this website's info - www.dursostandpipes.com .

2 - A 10 gal tank is all you are going to fit under the stand of a 54 gal corner tank. A 15 gal tall will work, but they are hard to find.

3 - Most LFS will have all the plumbing parts you will need, not Petco. Or about any online store will have it as well.

4 - Skimmer in one section, chaeto in the middle, and return pump in the other. Heaters can go in any section.

5 - Baffles are a must, a bubble baffle will keep the micro bubbles from the skimmer from getting into the tank. Your skimmer also needs a constant water level in it's section for consistent skimming performance.

6 - Research sumps and equipment as much as possible.

Here are some pictures of my 10 gal sump under my 54 corner, it's very tight in there but it worked very well.

sump2.jpg


sump-1.jpg


Don't be afraid to ask questions........it's the only way to learn.
 
1 - Your tank should have come with a megaflow overflow kit. That is an adjust able durso standpipe and the return pipe. If it didn't, it's not a big deal since you can build your own. The return line is 3/4" pvc with locline in the tank so you can aim the flow. The standpipe can be made from this website's info - www.dursostandpipes.com .


This is the main gap in my understanding. Thanks for the info. I bought my tank 2nd or 3rd hand about 10 years ago and had always done freshwater and gotten away with a canister. The fluval 305 had that tank nearly maintenance free.

I know you say I could build this, but do you think this is the exact same thing, all parts?
http://www.amazon.com/All-Glass-Aquarium-AAG29251-Accessory/dp/B0002DJAZQ


If the answer to that is yes.
Then, I would have the overflow drain into the 10 gallon tank and it looks like in your setup you have:
* The protein skimmer in the first compartment
* The water overflows over a short baffle
* In the second very small compartment (1" about) the water then flows under a 2nd baffle
* In a 3rd compartment (again, small, ~1") the wter then flows over another short baffle
* the 4th compartment has some rock & heaters
* water flows out of the 4th compartment over the last short baffle and into the 5th compartment which contains the pump.

Is all that right?
If affirmative i have some follow up questions (like how you determine the fill line, what protein skimmer & pump you're using, and i guess that's it for now).

Thanks guys for dealing with these detailed ignorant questions!
I owe you all :beer:
 
Yes, that is all correct.

The first set of 3 glass plates is called a bubble baffle, it forces the water over-under-over to try and pop any micro bubbles from the skimmer.

Middle section is great for chaeto.....it's a macro algae that will absorb phosphates and nitrates naturally. Just trim is when it grows too much and let it start again.

Last section is for your return pump. That is the section that will vary in water depth and you want your "fill line" to be about 1" below the baffle. Your other 2 sections will remain a constant water level, but the return section will drop from evaporation. If you are going to do an auto topoff, that is the section where you will want to put the sensor.
 
Anyone has tried a Marxspect Gyre in their corner tank? Was wondering what type of flow one could expect from this baby in a corner tank setting.

I have a Maxspect Gyre 150 on my Trigon 190. Great bit of kit. Very tidy, and replaced 2 No unsightly power heads. Its not totally silent but they bed in once the bearings wear in.

Initially I had it on the top right side blowing across the top and the current could be clearly seen across the sand bed, but due to my aquascape it blew the sand out of the corner even on 2nd pulse setting.

So now it sits on the rear edge vertically so blows around the tank. I have a powerhead in the front right corner (top) just to focus some direct flow on my rock face and monti.

I do have a straight weir that cuts off the rear corner so this helps focus the flow around the back.

Hope this helps.
 
1 - Your tank should have come with a megaflow overflow kit. That is an adjust able durso standpipe and the return pipe. If it didn't, it's not a big deal since you can build your own. The return line is 3/4" pvc with locline in the tank so you can aim the flow. The standpipe can be made from this website's info - www.dursostandpipes.com .

2 - A 10 gal tank is all you are going to fit under the stand of a 54 gal corner tank. A 15 gal tall will work, but they are hard to find.

3 - Most LFS will have all the plumbing parts you will need, not Petco. Or about any online store will have it as well.

4 - Skimmer in one section, chaeto in the middle, and return pump in the other. Heaters can go in any section.

5 - Baffles are a must, a bubble baffle will keep the micro bubbles from the skimmer from getting into the tank. Your skimmer also needs a constant water level in it's section for consistent skimming performance.

6 - Research sumps and equipment as much as possible.

Here are some pictures of my 10 gal sump under my 54 corner, it's very tight in there but it worked very well.

sump2.jpg


sump-1.jpg


Don't be afraid to ask questions........it's the only way to learn.

All i'd say here is you don't need the 1st baffle on the left..

In my sump I have the 1st baffle 1" from the bottom forcing the water under baffle 1 then over baffle 2. Rather than over baffle 1 under baffle 2 over baffle 3, Most of the bubbles from the skimmer will travel back up before the water travels under the 1st baffle, and any that make it into the gap between will be gone by the time the water reaches the final baffle on the right where the return pump lives. I have zero micro bubbles in my DT.

3 baffles is plenty, gives you more room, and this set up gives you a nice section in the middle for fuge / reactor etc ( As above ). Leave bare bottom also. You'll get a lot of 'crud' settle in the middle section which is easy to suck out. IME.
 
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Hello,

I've been following this thread for about a year now since i'm building my own little reef and i've found soms really good info!
Now i have started scaping and i would love tot hear some opinions...
The tank is a juwel trigon 350, so 92 gallons.
Thanx in advance.

I stayed clear of all the glass for cleaning, a good flow around the tank and because i think it just looks better with pristine windows. It gives the illusion if openness...

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Greetings from Belgium!
 
Hey guys... I am returning once again to the corner club! We are currently filling our new (to us) 135 gallon corner! Sump is custom made by a friend of mine and I am lucky to have such amazing talent so close. Everything will be controlled via apex on electrical panel that slides behind thr tank when not being used. We will be going with 3x kessil a360we's and currently have a gyre 150 ready for the flow. Return pump is a waterblaster 7000 that will be tee'd off for refractors refugium etc... here are some pics.
 
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