THE Tank Build By Aqua Digital

Well little update for you.

All I can say is critters! Big black hairy legged things with very large pincers! Yep I got a crabs, well actually the tank had a crab, nasty little bugger too.

So first I tried my dentistry and with some pointed nose pliers went in for the grab, no avail that thing is damn strong and a bit scary to be honest. Then came the inverted bottle! My cleaner shrimps loved their new home and constant supply of readily available food.

Then I did some RC searching and came across the tall walled glass trick! Ha success in one night!

if you have crabs, ok best re-phrased, if your tank has crabs, get a glass tall enough that the critter cant jump out of, I used an 8" tall tumbler. put the glass at a 45 degree angle against your rock work and in the bottom some very fishy pellets. The reason I suggest pellets is because as I found out shrimps have no fear in going down into the glass and pulling out hunks of shrimp/chicken/raw beef!!

The theory is this - Said crab comes for its free meal jumps into the glass chows down then realises nature did not equip him for climbing smooth surfaces! (whens the last time you saw a Crab climbing up your fish tank glass wall?)

One large scary looking black crab now dispatched!

Happy hunting folks.
 
One other update.

As I posted before I have been trying out some new ULNS dosing regimes after stopping all FM dosing except for balling

So to recap I have been dosing ProdiBio biodigest and BioPtim, well these two I have been doing for a while but was also mixing this in with FM stuff. I never really got any great results, so a change was required after 6 months. All Ultra organic, Min-S and Power traces were stopped. I then left the tank just running on the two above mentioned prodibio additives for two weeks.

Last friday I added the first vial of reef booster which is the prodibio all in one amino/Omega 3 food source.

Results - in one week I am now seeing finally the blues appearing and also other corals are becoming more vibrant.

I will report back in two weeks further developments

So for anyone following my dosing is as follows

1 x vial Bio digest/week
1 x vial BioPtim/week
1 x Vial Reefbooster/week
balling method. ( I will be switching to mineral salts supplied by a canadian mineral manufacturer very soon which we have been working with developing a pure grade salt)
 
Just wondering how the "Cyano Fight" is coming along . . . .

Remember that Salt PM we exchanged back a few months ago . . . ?
 
well its a fight, I am just going through wave two of the new tank syndrome, always hits after 6 months.

It will burn itself out.

I have dialled in my dosing and really seeing the benefits of ProdiBio, this stuff rocks, I just dont see the need for ULNS that uses reactors or weird fuzzy balls etc.

My acros are growing so fast, the only colour I am struggling with is blue, so might have to look into some potassium dosing, but other than that everything is doing well, including my new friend Cyano.
 
Cyano is so dang efficient at "utilizing" elements and compounds for energy that other organisms can't which is why it's so hard to control once it takes hold. I've often wondered if it's able to break down H-2-O for energy :rollface::rollface::rollface:

I know that after changing from "That Salt" it took me a good 3-4 months (if not more) to get my system back on track. Keep in mind I'm not running anything elaborate or technical at all so my results can hardly be compared to your work here.
 
my theory which i used before and it does work, is let it burn itself out, and it will, it uses up all the recourses that it specifically wants and then dies off, so by removing it you are just prolonging the pain, OK if you have a nutrient issue this will not work. I have now left mine (after remembering this trick) for 2 days and already it is getting weaker.

The salt is what I believe triggered it and you are right this can take time to restabilize but what it has done is push me to do weekly water changes. if the tank was more mature I dont believe it would have been a trigger, but thats just a theory. This brings me back to the second cycle of a new tank.
 
The topic of "Salt Brands" for some reason gets way to "heated" or "passionate" way to easily so I try to avoid it if at all possible.

My system is going on 3 years old now and in year 2 is when I "experimented" by going from R/C ( I was among the lucky who got BAD batches from R/C). I stayed with RC long enough to allow my tank params to stabilize (they replaced the salt and the vendor provided test kits until everything was back to normal) took about 6 months to get Alk, Mg, Calc into normal levels without dosing and once the tank was stable I switched to TM Pro. Wow... immediate "Blooms" across the board. I went through 3 buckets of this stuff before someone told me "Your algae and Cyano issues could be TM Pro related". That's when I changed to SeaChem Reef Salt (talk about a great salt in my eyes). I didn't dose anything, use any "chemical removal" or really do anything other than monitor the nutrients I added to the system and increased flow. That along with weekly water changes my system slowly came back into harmony and the Cyano left completely of it's own accord. Fortunately the Green Hair Algae went at the same time so it was a 2 for 1 success story.

I just wanted to say that I totally agree with you in "letting it run it's course and not try to TREAT the tank". I like that philosophy and subscribe to it heavily in my reefing chores.

As others read this please note that what worked in my tank may or may NOT work in yours. Each system is unique in it's workings, design and how it's maintained but for me I did like Michael and just let things happen in their own way with slight "tweaks" here and there.
 
Michael,

Quick question - are you having any issues dosing Biodigest and BioPtim on a weekly basis? I'm running Prodibio on a 105g net system volume tank, and thought the dosing was every 2 weeks? Is there a greater benefit to weekly dosing? Just curious... Also, I'm battling cyano as well. Switched from ESV to Red Sea salt and now have a mild outbreak. :(

Cheers,


One other update.

As I posted before I have been trying out some new ULNS dosing regimes after stopping all FM dosing except for balling

So to recap I have been dosing ProdiBio biodigest and BioPtim, well these two I have been doing for a while but was also mixing this in with FM stuff. I never really got any great results, so a change was required after 6 months. All Ultra organic, Min-S and Power traces were stopped. I then left the tank just running on the two above mentioned prodibio additives for two weeks.

Last friday I added the first vial of reef booster which is the prodibio all in one amino/Omega 3 food source.

Results - in one week I am now seeing finally the blues appearing and also other corals are becoming more vibrant.

I will report back in two weeks further developments

So for anyone following my dosing is as follows

1 x vial Bio digest/week
1 x vial BioPtim/week
1 x Vial Reefbooster/week
balling method. ( I will be switching to mineral salts supplied by a canadian mineral manufacturer very soon which we have been working with developing a pure grade salt)
 
Hi

Prodibio changed their dosing, so it depends on what one you have, if it has a sticker on it saying new formula look at the back of the box.

for 105gal this is what you should be dosing 1 vial for 200 l (50 US gal) /15 days as you will be dosing 2 vials I would recommend doing 1 a week. Do not use Reef booster until you have zero nutrients.

Do not ever dose other products with this as you will just upset the prodi dosing and effect.
 
yes 100% correct and shold be followed, but with expereince and time you learn how your own system reacts best and I have found staggering the dose 50/50 over a two week period more beneficial.

you cant over dose bio digest or bioPtim so it lends itself well to experimentation ;)
 
Instead of reading through all this again can you give me a rundown of your % on your AI lighting. I too have a 60 cube with one AI and one on the way. I have bleached a few SPS with just the one. So I want to know what you had yours set to in the beginning with the two. This is the first time i have fooled with LEDs, and im guessing the bleaching is too much light, because too little light wouldnt do this. Thanks for any help.
 
Well you may find this odd but I am running the whites at 90% and the blues at 100%

8am 0% white blue
11am 90% white and 100% blue
5pm 90% white and 100% blue

slow dim down of both to 10.30pm then blue stays at 2% until 11.30pm

Lights are about 8" from the susrface
Tank is 24" deep

First coral is about 16" from the lamp

My SPS are all shallow reef corals so this may explain why they like a damn good sun tan!
 
Prodi recommedn 6 weeks cycel before starting their own nutrient dosing (reef booster) so fm will be no different.

If after 2 weeks you see your nutrients drop to non existant then add Min-S only



OK its been a while since I started Prodi, finally nitrates dropped to almost
nothing when using low side of test kit.

(28g system)

I just started dosing .5ml Min-s daily (done 2 doses so far)

I have available Amin and the power traces 1-4

what shall I start dosing next? amin?
 
Hey Michael, are you planning to run Vortechs on here now to test out the new module, or will you be staying with Tunzes?
 
Joe - I actually stopped all FM as was not getting the results I hoped for, I now run only ProdiBio and in the time since the switch the colours are now coming out more, especially the blues that I always struggled with. My dosin regime is a few posts back.

David - No, not that I dont want to but purely the Vortech do not suit my tank as I can not create upward flow that is so essential to SPS growth and health, the tank is small so the flow direction etc is critical, so for now at least I am sticking with Tunze.
 
These elements are found in the BioPtim so there are no other requirements for this.

My colours are really vibrant now. However I am planning on adding some pottasium to the system just to see what difference that makes to the blue acro that has always been stubborn of them all.
 
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