Toofrigginswt's Custom 125 Gallon Tank Build

How can I convince you to move to Roseville? 1. 10 minutes away from yourreef and aquarium depot 2. Water comes from Folsom Dam collected from pure snow - 30 Tds straight from tap 3. Closer to Folsom round table pizza so getting to the mars meeting is a breeze. 4. Haven't had anybody steal my garden hose yet since I moved out of Sacramento. 5. I pay less in utilities than SMUD and sac utilities.

What's funny was that the other day I went to Roseville Galleria with my girlfriend and I told her, "Roseville is really nice. I wouldn't mind living here." It's definitely a nice area to live.


It's $26 for shipping right?

Right. I think it's about $25-26 bucks.


I'm wondering if I'll have enough flow for my tank with the 2 Tunze 6105's

You can always add more pumps or get a bigger pump down the line. Your tunzes can do up to 3400gph. With two of those I think you'll be fine for a while.


If you check out my other thread , you could never have too much random flow.

True. I think you have more money in your pumps than my whole system put together! Haha.
 
The pumps are for nutrient reduction in the display. I never have to siphon the bottom or blow the rocks of detritus. All particulates end up collecting in the sumps which I vacuum with a python hose weekly as part of my water change routine. For me, it is a necessity rather than to show off stuff. It is easier to siphon an empty sump with mulm than a display.
 
I used the koi pond filtration principle derived from city water purification where water flows into multiple chambers but the bulkhead connecting the pipes is located on the top of each chamber. As water enter from one chamber to the next, the heavy particles falls down and get trapped in the bottom of the chamber. By the time it gets to the last chamber there are minimal particles left over to filter. Some people employ filter socks to trap detritus. I just siphon my sumps bottom as part of my water change routine. There is one guy from South America that uses this principle and uses trays of siporax to hold bacteria in the last chambers. There was a thread here somewhere maybe the sps forum or the large tank forum. That is the reason why I use multiple tanks rather than a baffled sump.
 
I think the guy that you're referring to that uses siporax is Denadai. He actually moved to North America and no longer has a tank (not that it matters because his tanks were really nice).
 
The newer vortech has that nutrient export mode that literally suspends the particles trapped in the live rock in the display and the particles eventually exit the overflows. It works better with the mp60es than the mp40. The mp40 is really weak and you won't notice the mode in tanks bigger than 120gallons. I want those particles trapped somewhere but I do not want to have to clean and replace filter socks. I also employ the wet skimming water change technique when I start seeing film algae in my display. There is a guy here named gyr which employed this method. I intentionally raise my sump volume an inch by adding new saltwater in and shoot vodka in the system at the same time. Since I use a cone skimmer the skimmer tends to overflow slowly due to sensitivity with the water level. My skimmer cup drain using a hose that exit the side of my house so my skimmer never overflows. The next day the water level goes back to normal since the excess water is skimmed out of the skimmer. This is how I lower my nutrients. I also use a 250watt metal halide in my chaeto refugium. I harvest a bucket of chaeto each month and donate it to the local Lfs.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363801655.738028.jpg
 
I used the koi pond filtration principle derived from city water purification where water flows into multiple chambers but the bulkhead connecting the pipes is located on the top of each chamber. As water enter from one chamber to the next, the heavy particles falls down and get trapped in the bottom of the chamber. By the time it gets to the last chamber there are minimal particles left over to filter. Some people employ filter socks to trap detritus. I just siphon my sumps bottom as part of my water change routine. There is one guy from South America that uses this principle and uses trays of siporax to hold bacteria in the last chambers. There was a thread here somewhere maybe the sps forum or the large tank forum. That is the reason why I use multiple tanks rather than a baffled sump.

The newer vortech has that nutrient export mode that literally suspends the particles trapped in the live rock in the display and the particles eventually exit the overflows. It works better with the mp60es than the mp40. The mp40 is really weak and you won't notice the mode in tanks bigger than 120gallons. I want those particles trapped somewhere but I do not want to have to clean and replace filter socks. I also employ the wet skimming water change technique when I start seeing film algae in my display. There is a guy here named gyr which employed this method. I intentionally raise my sump volume an inch by adding new saltwater in and shoot vodka in the system at the same time. Since I use a cone skimmer the skimmer tends to overflow slowly due to sensitivity with the water level. My skimmer cup drain using a hose that exit the side of my house so my skimmer never overflows. The next day the water level goes back to normal since the excess water is skimmed out of the skimmer. This is how I lower my nutrients. I also use a 250watt metal halide in my chaeto refugium. I harvest a bucket of chaeto each month and donate it to the local Lfs.
View attachment 224570


I understand that. I just want to understand
The pumps are for nutrient reduction in the display.

What you're talking about is the removal of detritus, which over time can break down and create excess nutrients and that's a pretty simple thought process in the hobby; BUT I want to know how you keep lower nutrients in the display based on just pumps :p

Edit: They can call those modes whatever they want for marketing purposes. They move water. End.
 
Hi Mark,
Sorry i use nutrient and detritus/excess food interchangeably. The real nutrient reduction is done via bacteria/carbon dosing/wet skimming water changes and algae export.
Glenn
 
Hi Mark,
Sorry i use nutrient and detritus/excess food interchangeably. The real nutrient reduction is done via bacteria/carbon dosing/wet skimming water changes and algae export.
Glenn

The way I read your post is that pumps were responsible for the nutrient reduction in your display ;)

The pumps are for nutrient reduction in the display.


I wanted to hear all about that breakthrough in the hobby. I would love to know how to keep nutrients completely out of my display as that's where my fish are. FWIW, my water in my sump is usually cleaner than my display as that's where my GFO, Carbon & Skimmer is located (and other nutrient exportation devices/methods). I understand about the methods you mentioned and their uses for nutrient exportation, but like I said, I was more interested in if you figured a way to have a cleaner display that than the rest of your system. That's all.

:strooper:

Sorry for the sidetrack. Let's get back to the truck thread at hand!
 
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Thanks Mark. I just want to add lastly that there was a time when I had to remove most of my rocks to try to catch a rabbit fish and to my amazement there was no collection of detritus whatsoever in all eight foot length of the display which I attribute to my closed loop. I run two closed loop in the tank, one reeflo hammerhead and a snapper feeding the chiller. I basically have a pipe running across the bottom of the 8 foot length of the tank that is hidden by the rock work with loc lines pointing down. Flow is literally coming out of the rock work so nothing settles under the rocks and with the help of the wave makers and flow above, all of the detritus and excess food never settles in the display. They just go out of the overflow. I cannot say my sump is cleaner because all of the mulm settles there where I can easily access it for cleaning. I just siphon them Friday nights.
Glenn
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363810729.323726.jpg
This was a picture from a long time ago when I was still living in Sacramento. My plumbing has changed a bit since then. I had 3 bulkheads in the bottom of the tank. I chopped off the T to get it closer to the bottom and all loc lines pointing down. I then filled the bottom with rock no higher than half the height of the tank. All the loclines are hidden but there is enough flow to blow everything so nothing settles in the bottom. In short, the closed loop blows detritus up, wave makers push them towards the overflow. No siphoning required in the display.
Glenn
 
Thanks Mark. I just want to add lastly that there was a time when I had to remove most of my rocks to try to catch a rabbit fish and to my amazement there was no collection of detritus whatsoever in all eight foot length of the display which I attribute to my closed loop. I run two closed loop in the tank, one reeflo hammerhead and a snapper feeding the chiller. I basically have a pipe running across the bottom of the 8 foot length of the tank that is hidden by the rock work with loc lines pointing down. Flow is literally coming out of the rock work so nothing settles under the rocks and with the help of the wave makers and flow above, all of the detritus and excess food never settles in the display. They just go out of the overflow. I cannot say my sump is cleaner because all of the mulm settles there where I can easily access it for cleaning. I just siphon them Friday nights.
Glenn

Thanks Glenn.

I guess my understanding of how nutrients will dispurse equally in water through any mixing process (and you are quite fond of flow) might not apply in this case because you remove some physical matter once a week? (For the record, I also syphon my sump when doing watch changes). Maybe I'm way off base here, but are you saying that can control nutrients in your display tank vs. not in your display by just having more flow and going against the physical laws of nature?

I was simply having fun with you for your
The pumps are for nutrient reduction in the display
comment.

IMO/IME, in a closed system you have almost identical nutrients levels consistently throughout unless someone is imploring a very heavy use of mechanical filtration methods.

Nutrients dissolve into the water. By syphoning out the detritus, you are removing the possibility of it breaking down and that's a very effective way of prevention. But like I said, I was talking about
The pumps are for nutrient reduction in the display
comment before the justification.
 
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Thanks Mark. I would have my choice of words more carefully next time. FYI, I am still very interested in purchasing corals from you. There is just too many expenditures on the way. If you could pm me away from this thread regarding where to get the Nikon 105 VR lens that is actually American made I would appreciate it. Ok, back to trucks...
 
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