What do you use for QT and ATO?

[DaveFe]

Continuing the setup of my 75 gallon and just wanted to take a poll seeing what everyone uses for QT and ATO, tanks, buckets, Rubbermaid containers?

Someone local is selling two 10 gallon tanks and one 20 gallon tank for $1 gallon. I thought at least the 10 gallons might make good tanks for TTM QT.

Also from an aesthetic standpoint what do you do with your ATO container? My sump takes up all the room under my stand so it's going to have to be sitting next to the tank.

 

[billdogg]

No ATO, although I'm considering it after 30 years in the hobby.

My QT is a 20L tank with a heater, MJ power head, and a dual biowheel HOB filter, along with an assortment of pvc elbows for the fish to hide in.

For TTM, I use my tried and true 5g buckets that are almost impossible to not accumulate over the years.

 

[Uncle99]

I spent 25 years without an ATO.
I finally got one 2 weeks ago, coral box a-100.
The infra red sensor failed on the 13th day, lucky, the second sensor did work so saved the tank.
Going back to adding the 1/2 gallon per day myself.
Maybe just unlucky. Even the manufacture says the sensor wears out in 6 months,
Piece of garbage.

 

[Dmorty217]

Spectrapure ATO, 40g, 75g and 125g QTs. Also have a 150g Rubbermaid and a 220g container that use to hold honey that I use for RO/saltwater

 

[homer1475]

40G tank for QT, tried and true 5 gallon buckets for TTM. Tunze ATO to a 5 gallon jug which is in the closet behind the tank.

 

[mb167204]

Tunze 3155. After getting one I could never have a tank without one. The levels of safety warrant the higher price of the 3155 over the nano.

 

[Thornbreaker]

5 gallon buckets for TTM, perfect size esp if it's just 1 fish.

Just picked up a 10 gallon brute for an ATO container. $20 at HD.

Using an innovative marine titanium hydrofill ATO controller. $60 bucks.

Basic Tom's aqua lifter pump.

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[DaveFe]

Thanks for the replies, it never even occurred to me to use buckets for TTM but then use a tank to finish up the QT. For the bucket people are you doing anything with the water in the 72 hour window or not enough time for ammonia to build up? I realize this answer would change based on number of fish being done at once, I'm thinking I'll be doing one fish at a time with the possible exception of a group of flasher wrasses.

 

[mal7887]

I top off directly from RO. I have a few 110V solenoids that are controlled by the Apex, they open and close as needed, Automatically. It's great not having to fill up buckets!

 

[Thornbreaker]

Thanks for the replies, it never even occurred to me to use buckets for TTM but then use a tank to finish up the QT. For the bucket people are you doing anything with the water in the 72 hour window or not enough time for ammonia to build up? I realize this answer would change based on number of fish being done at once, I'm thinking I'll be doing one fish at a time with the possible exception of a group of flasher wrasses.

I had seachem badges to keep an eye on ammonia, and would dose Prime if it started creeping up. Had 2 clowns in the bucket though.

You could also do a water change as needed. (1-2 gallons)

You just have to switch buckets and equipment right before the 72 hour window.

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[ryeguyy84]

I top off directly from RO. I have a few 110V solenoids that are controlled by the Apex, they open and close as needed, Automatically. It's great not having to fill up buckets!

I recently thought to try this as I'm currently using a solenoid valve to fill my ato container. What kind of backup do you have from a stuck solenoid?

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[Sk8r]

For ATO, I currently use the Hydor SmartLevel. Cheap, simple, reliable. For your inflow hose, you can take a 1/2" hose down to mere tubing by slipping one tubing hose connector inside the 1/2" hose by brute force [and a hair dryer.]

 

[homer1475]

Never had an issue with ammonia in a 5G bucket.


Largest fish I have TTMed is a 3" kole tang, and have done 2 smalls clowns at the same time with no issue. Just remember to feed vary sparingly if at all. I typically find that fish don't eat during TTM, but there are exceptions(the kole tang I did ate like a pig every day).

 

[mal7887]

I recently thought to try this as I'm currently using a solenoid valve to fill my ato container. What kind of backup do you have from a stuck solenoid?

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I have a total of 4 solenoids:

• 1 - Valve to Water Source to RO System
• 2 - Valvue to run 20 Second discharge when system first starts to save DI resin
• 3 - Valve to tank
• 4 - Valve to fill Clean Water storage container for auto water changes

In addition, i also have a float switch in sump... Just in case. But so far, I have never needed it.

Solenoids I am using are here: https://www.wicvalve.com/. I am using 120V version so they can be plugged into regular outlet. Been in use for over 2 years without a single problem.

Here is a pic of my setup. Looks like a bunch of crazy wires, but it's organized chaos!

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

I top off directly from RO. I have a few 110V solenoids that are controlled by the Apex, they open and close as needed, Automatically. It's great not having to fill up buckets!

The concern with that is TDS creep. You don't want to have your RODI constantly turn on and off, you want it to stay on long enough to flush out the filters and membrane. By constantly having it turn on and off, you're not giving it the opportunity to do that thus shortening the life of your filters and depleting your DI resin faster eventually raising your TDS into the tank.

Plus it can be detrimental to your tank if for some reason your rodi didn't shut off and continued to feed your tank fresh water.

The best option is to have a container that can support 2-4 days of top off water and have it filled by your RODI only a couple times per week. That will limit the amount of fresh water pumped into your tank due to a stuck float, and prolong the life your your RODI.

 

[mal7887]

The concern with that is TDS creep. You don't want to have your RODI constantly turn on and off, you want it to stay on long enough to flush out the filters and membrane. By constantly having it turn on and off, you're not giving it the opportunity to do that thus shortening the life of your filters and depleting your DI resin faster eventually raising your TDS into the tank.

Plus it can be detrimental to your tank if for some reason your rodi didn't shut off and continued to feed your tank fresh water.

The best option is to have a container that can support 2-4 days of top off water and have it filled by your RODI only a couple times per week. That will limit the amount of fresh water pumped into your tank due to a stuck float, and prolong the life your your RODI.

Prior to having this setup, I used to have a large supply of fresh RODI water. It's been about 2 years now that I have been with this setup and have seen no noticeable decrease in my DI resin lifespan or Carbon/pre-filter life spans. Nor have I seen any noticeable change with my TDS meter.

Also, not sure if you read my 2nd post or not, but I have a solenoid that dumps the output from the membrane for the first 30 or so seconds to help preserve the DI resin longer and not expose it to excessive TDS when the system first starts.

Regarding the over filling. Two values would have to fail in the open position. Not impossible but not likely. I also have a float switch in the sump where the RO is added that is more than capable of physically preventing an overfill.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Just imagine the water you would save from those initial 30 second squirts if your top off wasn't calling for fresh water all the time.

Although that will prevent the creep, you have to admit that adds up.

Oh and what does TTM stand for?

 

[mal7887]

Sure, I could save water by not flushing it for 20/30 seconds"¦. But considering how much water is wasted anyway in the process of making RO in the grand scheme this really doesn't make a huge difference.

Some RO systems (very few) produce on a 1:1 ratio but most are a lot worse maybe a 4:1. Even with very efficient systems you are still wasting the same amount of what you produce.

My RO Top Off runs on average 4 times a day so each 30 second flush uses .026 gallons each time. I live in Florida... It rains a lot here. So I can live with it. :beer:

 

[Tastee]

I have a Red Sea Reefer with a stock gravity fed 8 litre ATO, controlled by a float. That in turn is kept full by a Neptune ATK. The ATK uses both optical sensors and an emergency float valve shutoff to ensure it can never over-run. Currently I feed from a 30 litre barrel next to the tank but are working on my external RODI reservoir (about 8’ away from the tank). See below.

The RODI is an Aquatic Life 4 stage unit, and I have their pressure sensitive solenoid and float valve on order. That will keep a 100 litre storage container full and the ATK will then feed from that. I will also have a tap line inside pumping from the reservoir via an Eheim 3000 L/hour pump. That will let me fill barrels for water changes etc.

I will also be putting an Apex optical sensor into the sump return to alert me if the gravity fed float valve ever stops working and the sump starts to empty due to evaporation. I don’t have room to put the ATK directly into the sump.

My QT is a 35 litre Aqua One Reflex. It has it’s own 1.8 litre home made ATO, again gravity fed with a float valve.

 

[Thornbreaker]

Never had an issue with ammonia in a 5G bucket.


Largest fish I have TTMed is a 3" kole tang, and have done 2 smalls clowns at the same time with no issue. Just remember to feed vary sparingly if at all. I typically find that fish don't eat during TTM, but there are exceptions(the kole tang I did ate like a pig every day).

Think 2 small tangs like a yellow and tomini would still be viable in a 5 gallon bucket?

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