I have not yet added in clouds and lightning unfortunately. Next update for sure.
Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
I have not yet added in clouds and lightning unfortunately. Next update for sure.
mm.reefs
Member
Sean,
For which project?
For Typhon the link you posted is correct.
For Jarduino with Mega2560 use PWM pins 7-13.
http://code.google.com/p/jarduino-aquarium-controller/downloads/detail?name=JARDUINO%20USER%20MANUAL%20v1.2%20beta.pdf&can=2&q=
-BB
sfsuphysics
Active member
I really need to read up on how to program these things, it seems like a fairly straight forward type of programming language. As it stands I'm not a big fan of what the Typhoon does, don't get me wrong, it works great for a controller. But one thing I'd like to do is to perhaps put the lighting cycles into the code, because honestly how often are you going to reprogram the timing? Then change the menu options to do something like "only channel 1 on" "only channel 2 on" etc, as that's the only real time I'd want to fiddle with it is to show off to people various colors over the tank to highlight different fluorescent patterns and what not.
that's sort of the best part of a controller based on opensource easily manipulated software and hardware, everyone will want something a little different and it's pretty easy to manipulate the code and or hardware to get it doing exactly what you want for a particular situation.
oreo57
Well-known member
These threads just make me dizzy... quick question:
any Typhon/adruno code that will allow multiple on/off/fade times per 24hr per channel??? I know I could "gang" outputs but that limits the easy 4 available
Sorry if it was staring me in the face.. but there is a LOT of info here..
sfsuphysics
Active member
Yup, now it's just a matter of looking through the original code, and seeing how to "reverse engineer" it. Everything that I want it already does, just in a different way, of course first I need a USB interface so I can get a computer to talk to the damned thing
Yup, now it's just a matter of looking through the original code, and seeing how to "reverse engineer" it. Everything that I want it already does, just in a different way, of course first I need a USB interface so I can get a computer to talk to the damned thing
I'm not sure where it all went, but there used to be a few different versions of the Typhon firmware in the repository. Personally, I like and use DustinB's version of the firmware. It differs from the original, in that it features an extra MINIMUM value for the leds (moonlights anyone?) and a revamped menu system. There's also some Dallas one wire temp sensor capability buried in the code. I'll post it back into this thread if there's interest.
Here you go. Use Arduino 18 -23 to compile the code. It's not compatible with Arduino 1.0
Hi
this is my first post and I speak a "maccaroni" english, so don't :uzi:
I'm very interested in Typhon code for Arduino and I've seen Asid61 inproved code.
My Arduino(uno) ide is 1.0.5, display hd44870 with SPI, DS1307
I've installed the right library but if i loud the code on arduino the display show the screens running in loop very fastly and I can't do anything to stop it!
Where I'm going wrong?
thanks!
this is my first post and I speak a "maccaroni" english, so don't :uzi:
I'm very interested in Typhon code for Arduino and I've seen Asid61 inproved code.
My Arduino(uno) ide is 1.0.5, display hd44870 with SPI, DS1307
I've installed the right library but if i loud the code on arduino the display show the screens running in loop very fastly and I can't do anything to stop it!
Where I'm going wrong?
thanks!
Okay, I just finished a new code! Link here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2329889
No weather, but it's much better than the one I posted above. Only 14 settings to make a nice bell curve.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2329889
No weather, but it's much better than the one I posted above. Only 14 settings to make a nice bell curve.
Speedbump858
New member
Since there are at least a few people with these in-hand or in-construction, I wanted to add a few quick notes about actual use.
First, a photo. Excuse the fact that there are missing components and other "issues" as this was an early prototype I was messing around with. It's also important to note that this is from the first run of boards - the files uploaded have some silkscreen text fixes I'll point out below.
This is the Typhon without the LCD plugged in, so you can see the guts. There are 4 areas of interest with red numbers:
3) The output header. This is a 2-row 90 degree header for connecting your LED drivers. There are actually two 4-pair headers right next to each other, depending on if you're using 5v or 10v outputs. The bottom 4, populated in this photo, are for 10v PWM outputs (i.e. meanwell ELN drivers). The top four, not populated, are for 5v outputs (i.e. buckpucks or most DIY drivers). You only need to populate the four you'll actually be using, no sense wasting headers if you'll never need them. It's VERY IMPORTANT to get polarity correct here, and this is where the silkscreen was corrected. In this 1st-run prototype board, the silk labels - down below the pins on the empty section of board - are BACKWARDS. If you look at the header from the side of the board, the ground pins are the TOP of each pair, and the signal (positive) pins are the BOTTOM of each pair. These are standard .1" male headers I used on this board, so you can use any common square pin .1" female connector - so called "header connectors" or even bits of female headers, or whatever your preference is. These are very common at hobby electronics vendors, and at hobby shops that deal in R/C hobbies, since R/C receivers use .1" connectors, too.
!
Hi DWZM,
Thanks for the work you have put into this project.
In 3, you noted the following:
50 <-0-5v PWM
50
50
50
10 <-0-10v PWM
10
10
10
are the 1s and 5s in my diagram all grounds?
Do I have the pairs right? I.E. 50 is one pair
Thanks
Got my Typhon built and thought I did an excellent job soldering, but upon applying power it won't turn on. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot what I did wrong? I know enough to build, but not enough to figure out what I did wrong. There are no solder bridges anywhere, and I'm 99% sure nothing got overheated or zapped by static electricity.
Hmmm...
I do have extra parts to build another, maybe I'll do that if you guys can't help me solve my ignorance. lol
Hmmm...
I do have extra parts to build another, maybe I'll do that if you guys can't help me solve my ignorance. lol
Make sure the power regulator is in the right way.
shark boy
New member
atmega328p-pu
atmega328p-pu
I need a new atmega328p-pu for my Typhon. seems I shorted an ldd and the reverse currrent went back to my Typhon. Now I can't get it to reprogram. I keep getting sync errors.
Anyone out there got one they don't want an arm and a leg for?
shark boy
atmega328p-pu
I need a new atmega328p-pu for my Typhon. seems I shorted an ldd and the reverse currrent went back to my Typhon. Now I can't get it to reprogram. I keep getting sync errors.
Anyone out there got one they don't want an arm and a leg for?
shark boy
I've got 10 of 'em with the "optiboot" bootloader already installed. Send me a PM and we'll make a deal.:spin1:
help please
help please
i am looking for one of these to control the lunar cycle on my rgb led strip drivers,
will this build work on led strips and does anyone have a pre built one or a link to a pre built i could purchase.
if not i have the typhon manual but was just looking at running the led strips
help please
i am looking for one of these to control the lunar cycle on my rgb led strip drivers,
will this build work on led strips and does anyone have a pre built one or a link to a pre built i could purchase.
if not i have the typhon manual but was just looking at running the led strips
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