Worm's 180 build

It depends on your overall flow rate, and the number and size of pass-through bulkheads you plan to use.

If you're over 3000 GPH I would use two 2" bulkheads or 3 1.5". If under 3000 GPH you can use two 1.5" bulkheads.

You could get the inner box as shallow as 2" front to back if you put the bulkhead nuts on the inside of the box and the flange in the external box.

Generally your inner box height is giong to be about 8" total, starting below the rim of the tank relative to the outside lowest point of the trim)
 
I was asking because I got an overflow for my 120:

7 1/4" L x 4" W x 5 1/4" H

It is really tight inside it for the bulkheads.

I do not think I will need an external box and just place the beananimal turnup/down in the overflow box it's self.

SO..

Place an overflow C2C box up in back lip.

Drill three holes for beananimal in back of glass.

Then most likely do up and over for returns.
 
4" on the inside might be enough for the elbows. FWIW Bean told me that if he had it to do over again he would do the internal/external box. I run one of these and have built several, it makes things super easy to tune and more importantly to adjust if needed.
 
OK Quick question for those following.

I am positioned to get a friends 265. It is not drilled.

He is using OTB for drains and feed.

I was thinking of drilling the back and making it a C2C overflow. Feed... Humm IDK yet. Looking for ideas.

Ready to pull the trigger.

I own a 265 and the rear panel is not tempered as I drilled mine. Don't think the bottom is either, but don't know for sure. If I were doing a C2C/BA, ii would definitely go for a low profile internal skim box and an external scupper box for all the piping. I just think big C2C overflows are a major eyesore inside the tank.
 
To be honest, I pulled the trigger about 3 minutes ago, officially.

I was on the fence until then.
 
OK ca1ore,

Tank size: 84" wide x 24" deep x 30" high

You are basically saying make a internal C2C with like 30 wide(or make it the true 84 wide?) 3 Inch tall x 3 inch deep. I forget what the heigth of the rim is on a marineland. So make the weir 1/4" from the tank rim.
Three holes (no bulkheads just plain glass) at; one at center then two more 10 inches off to each side, within the confines of the internal C2C box.

On the outside make a box that is 30 wide 4 tall 4 deep. 2.1 gallons at max fill.(hopefully never) (84x24x.25 is 2.2 gallons. This is an assumption that the water will form a bead of .25 inch around the weir so this would have to drain off the top of the tank during pump off.)

4 tall and 4 deep to allow for plumbing fittings and bulkheads.
 
OK ca1ore,

Tank size: 84" wide x 24" deep x 30" high

You are basically saying make a internal C2C with like 30 wide(or make it the true 84 wide?) 3 Inch tall x 3 inch deep. I forget what the heigth of the rim is on a marineland. So make the weir 1/4" from the tank rim.
Three holes (no bulkheads just plain glass) at; one at center then two more 10 inches off to each side, within the confines of the internal C2C box.

On the outside make a box that is 30 wide 4 tall 4 deep. 2.1 gallons at max fill.(hopefully never) (84x24x.25 is 2.2 gallons. This is an assumption that the water will form a bead of .25 inch around the weir so this would have to drain off the top of the tank during pump off.)

4 tall and 4 deep to allow for plumbing fittings and bulkheads.

If I had to do it over, I would have ordered the non-RR 265. I would have built a 5 sided internal skimmer box out of 1/4" black acrylic say 72" long, 6 inches tall and 2 1/2" deep. I would have then drilled 4 holes along the back of the tank (with matching holes in the back of the skimmer box) and used three 1 1/2" bulkheads to attach it to the tank - ensuring the top rim of the skimmer box was just slightly higher than the bottom edge of the top trim. I would then have attached a 4 sided glass box to the back of the tank so it covered the three drain holes. Holes for the BA would then be drilled in the bottom of the external supper box. The fourth hole (for a 1" bulkhead) would be for the return.

That's how I'd have done it with the benefits of hindsight.
 
If I had to do it over, I would have ordered the non-RR 265. I would have built a 5 sided internal skimmer box out of 1/4" black acrylic say 72" long, 6 inches tall and 2 1/2" deep. I would have then drilled 4 holes along the back of the tank (with matching holes in the back of the skimmer box) and used three 1 1/2" bulkheads to attach it to the tank - ensuring the top rim of the skimmer box was just slightly higher than the bottom edge of the top trim. I would then have attached a 4 sided glass box to the back of the tank so it covered the three drain holes. Holes for the BA would then be drilled in the bottom of the external supper box. The fourth hole (for a 1" bulkhead) would be for the return.

That's how I'd have done it with the benefits of hindsight.

If you have a box on the outside of the tank, why do you need an internal box? Could you just build a weir in the back wall were the water would just flow into and you wouldn't have the eye sore of the internal box
 
If you have a box on the outside of the tank, why do you need an internal box? Could you just build a weir in the back wall were the water would just flow into and you wouldn't have the eye sore of the internal box

That's certainly an option, but it requires custom glass cutting capabilities - beyond the scope of this discussion of a stick mass market tank. Best option though, I agree.
 
That's certainly an option, but it requires custom glass cutting capabilities - beyond the scope of this discussion of a stick mass market tank. Best option though, I agree.

I am thinking about it for my next build probably a 375 acrylic, and have a slot near the top of the tank with no teeth for the weir
 
OK well after thinking all night and today about this I have come to some decisions.

Wayne/Leroy: Yes it will be to the right of the 180, against that one wall. It will have it's own sump(s) underneath.

AZJohnny: I agree with the design but I am not going to de-rim it and then do a cut out.

OrionN: Yeah I have quite a few of those. That is one of the best pictures I have of one eating. I really like the zoomed in aspect for showing people what a bristleworm looks like. Some pictures are so hard to see and out of focus too much to be able to see the bristles on it.

bpcardona: I wish I had napkins. Its still all in my head. I need to pull out some paper and draw it a bit. Let me get the inventory list of all the items and I will post what is coming with it.

ca1ore: Now let me think about that box design. Besides being able to take it off for what ever reason, I would need a double o-ring to seal it, or is that a triple?

Overflow side, between overflow and glass, between glass and external, inside of external.

Hummm...

I was thinking of:

Through the glass to have 5 holes. Three for overflow and one on each end for return.
 
OK here is a rough draw of the rock formations.

Red is internal pvc support to keep from falling over.
 
ca1ore: Now let me think about that box design. Besides being able to take it off for what ever reason, I would need a double o-ring to seal it, or is that a triple?

I took this approach with a smaller tank a few years ago, and used two gaskets - one under the flange inside the skimmer box, and one between the skimmer box and the back wall of the tank.
 
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