Algae Scrubber Advanced

On the tank in the dentist's office, not really. I slacked off on maintaining Cal and Alk and lost a big red cap, but other than that, coming up on 4 years with nothing but a scrubber.

My personal tank is doing very well also, at least 2 years on that one, nothing but a scrubber.

As a side note, I don't keep any "difficult" corals in any of these tanks though, mainly because I just don't have the time. One tank is overridden with fuzzy mushrooms, the other has tons of clove polyps but not to the point of choking everything else off.
 
Thx for the reply Floyd. I had a scrubber a few years back and it was fantastic, not even sure why I went back to skimmers. Looking at setting up a new system and I am sure it will be with a scrubber.
 
Composition of Gracilaria Parvispora

Composition of Gracilaria Parvispora

This is exactly what I do. Rod's Food is great because it's a total tank food. My local club gets together every 6 months or so and makes about a 3 gallon batch of DIY food that contains various seafood, off-the-shelf fish food, and coral foods like Cyclopeeze, Reef Chili, etc. It's essentially a DIY version of Rod's.

I don't do any PWCs unless it's a last resort, like one of those 'gut' feelings, like I notice something odd and I default to doing a water change to see if it helps (which, so far, it has made no difference)

Floyd,
I have read the first two pages and last two pages of this thread. Interesting stuff. I have never used an ATS but am intrigued. As I focus on macro algae refugiums and macro lagoon tanks, I never had the need. It seems to me that micro algae would be more efficient at processing nutrients per unit mass then macro algae but I have no scientific data to support that.
In some of my small macro algae growout tanks with little bioload, I fertilize with a concentrate kelp plant food that shows
Nitrogen 13%
Potash. 60%
Calcium. 18%
Magnesium. 6%
Sulfur. 3.5%
Cooper. 0.2%
Iron. 0.8%
Manganese. 0.1%
Molybdenum. 0.01%
Sodium. 12%
Zinc. 0.2%

Alaska by Pennington available at Home Depot for $9/QT.

In my large macro growout system, I grow Gracilaria Parvispora (Red Ogo) for human consumption. I recently had it analyzed by an agriculture lab. I suspect that the ratio of chemicals are not fixed and would reflect changes of nutrients in the water. I will know more in upcoming months.

Nitrogen. 2.6%
Phosphate. 0.08%
Potassium. 13.54%
Calcium. .55%
Magnesium. 1.16%
Sulfur. 4.8%
Zinc. 139ppm
Iron. 107ppm
Copper. 7ppm

I am not sure if this information is relevant to micro algae.
Happy trails,
Patrick
 
Algae Scrubber Advanced

Trying low flow on my scrubber as I fear that it's importance may be overrated, particularly when the screen is fully submerged, like mine. There's all sorts of mechanisms which should ensure enough nutrients are available on submerged screens in my view. I guess we will see ;)

http://youtu.be/1TVpGO0sZzY

Only had the scrubber pump turned off for a day or two so far but cleaning today and I'll take a series of pics over the next growth cycle.
 
Algae Scrubber Advanced

I'm wondering if, back in 2008, folks interested in algae filtration were sent down the wrong path. Looks to me like the power consumed by pumps etc would be better spent on increased lighting. These are only initial growth results though, so make of it as you please.
I would particularly like SM to reply to this post, thanks;

http://youtu.be/ri6qH1kKSvI
 
Well I suppose some of this depends on the setup as well. I think the waterfall type scrubbers have shown that there is a relationship between too little flow and too much light, which results in bare spots or yellow growth. This is the case with LED and CFL.

Even the SURF scrubbers have this problem, when you have zero growth and lights on full for a long period, the result is zero growth.

The case of a submerged scrubber might differ from these, because of the difference in the mechanism that causes this zero-growth situation (photoinhibition)

So what you're saying B is that you are getting better growth without an agitator pump in this scrubber?

If so, then how would you say it performs on a filtration basis?
 
Here is the screen from my slanted scrubber. Which is like a hybrid vertical/horizontal. I have a 17w cfl an inch away from the screen.



 
That's looking much better compared to the pics you posted in the other thread. Are you still getting the whiting issue right after cleaning?
 
Floyd,

I have read the first two pages and last two pages of this thread. Interesting stuff. I have never used an ATS but am intrigued. As I focus on macro algae refugiums and macro lagoon tanks, I never had the need. It seems to me that micro algae would be more efficient at processing nutrients per unit mass then macro algae but I have no scientific data to support that.

In some of my small macro algae growout tanks with little bioload, I fertilize with a concentrate kelp plant food that shows

Nitrogen 13%

Potash. 60%

Calcium. 18%

Magnesium. 6%

Sulfur. 3.5%

Cooper. 0.2%

Iron. 0.8%

Manganese. 0.1%

Molybdenum. 0.01%

Sodium. 12%

Zinc. 0.2%



Alaska by Pennington available at Home Depot for $9/QT.



In my large macro growout system, I grow Gracilaria Parvispora (Red Ogo) for human consumption. I recently had it analyzed by an agriculture lab. I suspect that the ratio of chemicals are not fixed and would reflect changes of nutrients in the water. I will know more in upcoming months.



Nitrogen. 2.6%

Phosphate. 0.08%

Potassium. 13.54%

Calcium. .55%

Magnesium. 1.16%

Sulfur. 4.8%

Zinc. 139ppm

Iron. 107ppm

Copper. 7ppm



I am not sure if this information is relevant to micro algae.

Happy trails,

Patrick


Subsea, great information here !!

Curious about how much of that fertilizer you use per gallon/liter?... Or to what concentration you aim those nutrients to get substantial algae growth?...

Do you use just water, salt mix and fertilizer???

Thank you in advance...
 
FYI acorral, if you quote a post via tapatalk, in order for it to show up correctly for all of us browser users, after you post your response you have to immediately edit it and then save it (you don't need to change anything). Otherwise, all the BB code shows up instead. It's a known tapatalk bug with the version that RC is using.
 
Algae Scrubber Advanced

FYI acorral, if you quote a post via tapatalk, in order for it to show up correctly for all of us browser users, after you post your response you have to immediately edit it and then save it (you don't need to change anything). Otherwise, all the BB code shows up instead. It's a known tapatalk bug with the version that RC is using.


Thank you !!
 
Algae Scrubber Advanced

Floyd,

I have read the first two pages and last two pages of this thread. Interesting stuff. I have never used an ATS but am intrigued. As I focus on macro algae refugiums and macro lagoon tanks, I never had the need. It seems to me that micro algae would be more efficient at processing nutrients per unit mass then macro algae but I have no scientific data to support that.

In some of my small macro algae growout tanks with little bioload, I fertilize with a concentrate kelp plant food that shows

Nitrogen 13%

Potash. 60%

Calcium. 18%

Magnesium. 6%

Sulfur. 3.5%

Cooper. 0.2%

Iron. 0.8%

Manganese. 0.1%

Molybdenum. 0.01%

Sodium. 12%

Zinc. 0.2%



Alaska by Pennington available at Home Depot for $9/QT.



In my large macro growout system, I grow Gracilaria Parvispora (Red Ogo) for human consumption. I recently had it analyzed by an agriculture lab. I suspect that the ratio of chemicals are not fixed and would reflect changes of nutrients in the water. I will know more in upcoming months.



Nitrogen. 2.6%

Phosphate. 0.08%

Potassium. 13.54%

Calcium. .55%

Magnesium. 1.16%

Sulfur. 4.8%

Zinc. 139ppm

Iron. 107ppm

Copper. 7ppm



I am not sure if this information is relevant to micro algae.

Happy trails,

Patrick


Subsea, great information here !!



Curious about how much of that fertilizer you use per gallon/liter?... Or to what concentration you aim those nutrients to get substantial algae growth?...



Do you use just water, salt mix and fertilizer???



Thank you in advance...
 
Algae Scrubber Advanced

Sounds like subsea has a seaweed cultivator.


It's half a waterfall screen, as the mechanism for growth is identical, ie. fast flow, thin film and unidirectional. No matter if it's vertical or horizontal the growth habitats are the same, except the gravitational stresses and flow stresses are less in a horizontal.

This would indicate that the "updated guidelines" are false.

An example VERTICAL waterfall (such as the one I designed in 2008) or VERTICAL upflow (such as the one I designed in 2011) screen size is 3 X 4 inches = 12 square inches of screen (7.5 X 10 cm = 75 sq cm) with a total of 12 real watts (not equivalent) of fluorescent light for 18 hours a day. If all 12 watts are on one side, it is a 1-sided screen. If 6 watts are on each side, it is a 2-sided screen, but the total is still 12 watts for 18 hours a day. This screen size and wattage should be able to handle the following amounts of daily feeding:

HORIZONTAL screens: Multiply the screen size by 4, and the wattage by 1 1/2. Flow is 24 hours, and is at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen [60 lph per cm], EVEN IF one sided or horizontal.

Was this an attempt to make waterfalls look better than horizontals?

And what's this about?

FLOATING SURFACE SCRUBBERS WITH RIBBONS: Screen size is the size of the box (Lenth X Width), and is 2-sided because the ribbons grow in 3D.

Do folks believe this? If this were the case then the surface area of the ribbons would be the "screen size". - Ludicrous.

My N is 2 and P 0.2 (not 0.02). It has been this way for the last 2 1/2 years I've been running a scrubber. However, no carbon skimmer or water changes either now.

Sorry to those I offend but I find this manipulation of the facts for personal gain offensive.

For the record, light intensity is relative to growth in a submerged horizontal so a rediculous amount of light can be used if required.
 
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