Algae Scrubber Basics

Has anyone used this light on a scrubber?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M31GHHO?psc=1

If so what size screen would it effectively light?

And the 20 watt version?

Thanks.
Yes, multi-chip fixtures are generally pretty good, but can create a hot spot right in front of the chip
Hay, what do you guys think of the marine magic scrubber on ebay item number.
272053935197
I am thinking of putting the light in the overflow box of my innovative marine 40.
IMO, developed by someone with little to no understanding of how a scrubber works, just trying to fill a void with and HOB unit. There are multiple things wrong with this design. Haven't seen on in operating but just from examining the way it's put together, waste of $$. If I thought that design would work well, I would build one like it.
 
This is what I use now, I placed a 3" round air stone in the bottom of one column. I suspended a screen with some pvc pipe and have an innovative marine magnetic fuge light. But as I understand it the led are 6500k, not right and I'm sure I could do more with better lighting.

I thought about a santamonica drop 2x but, the flow is restricted and I feel with better lighting I may do well with what I have. It's not the money I just want the best scrubber for my setup.
 
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6x6 lit area 2 sides.
Enclosed
6 ea 660nm (cree XP-E )and 1 450 nm (cree XT-E) per side
Driven by a meanwell 60-48d
Dimming and timer control via arduino upped to 10v via op amp and dac (this will be one of the funner parts).
Heat sink to be cut in two is 300x140mm
Sounds pretty good. With the RB I would instead run a pair of these and wire them in parallel together, then wire this pair in series with the red string. This avoids needing a separate driver and cuts down on the intensity, you don't need much blue. I use SemiLED Hyper Violets instead of blues, they seem to work better

So the questions, did I get the level of light corect? Assuming yes would best layout be simply two rows of three with the blue in the middle or some other configuration? Since I am going enclosed what do you recommend for the number and size of drains?

My biggest concern at the moment is my tank is practically silent, loudest noise being the fans on my two photon lights. That's the main reason I opted for enclosed am I going to hear this thing? Any tips to make it as silent as possible?

Wow I've never written that much on my tablet before...

Level is good, you can do different configurations, just try to get as even spacing as you can to get good even coverage. You're on the right track. What I would do is figure up your sq in (36) and divide by the # of reds (6) so you want to have each 660 cover a 6 sq in area (2x3 or 2.5x2x5, etc) then find a place for the blues after that (don't take the blues into consideration when spacing the reds)

Making it silent is not difficult, you can extend the screen into the water by an inch or so to prevent the water from crashing into the sump and that will get you a long way.
 
Is it time to scrape my overflow scrubber?

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/664397DA-AA89-4CD3-B4D3-8E52DA8E0969_zpsspgtewpz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/664397DA-AA89-4CD3-B4D3-8E52DA8E0969_zpsspgtewpz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 664397DA-AA89-4CD3-B4D3-8E52DA8E0969_zpsspgtewpz.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/F8B11EAA-97D1-4976-B199-F867D360DFD7_zpsjicw5qs4.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/F8B11EAA-97D1-4976-B199-F867D360DFD7_zpsjicw5qs4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo F8B11EAA-97D1-4976-B199-F867D360DFD7_zpsjicw5qs4.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/93EF70EE-9F20-49BA-A479-4ECB9C26F6E3_zpsemmacdau.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/93EF70EE-9F20-49BA-A479-4ECB9C26F6E3_zpsemmacdau.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 93EF70EE-9F20-49BA-A479-4ECB9C26F6E3_zpsemmacdau.jpg"/></a>

The areas closest to the surface but submerged have red slime cyano. The regions underneath (including under the cyano) have dark green hair. Above the waterline and behind the overflow shadow are empty.

Is this normal/healthy?

The glass back wall is still growing too.

<a href="http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/karimwassef/media/3AFFDD26-B43A-4DB3-9726-4A5B1B96A726_zpsnltkr470.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t496/karimwassef/3AFFDD26-B43A-4DB3-9726-4A5B1B96A726_zpsnltkr470.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 3AFFDD26-B43A-4DB3-9726-4A5B1B96A726_zpsnltkr470.jpg"/></a>

I'll scrape that too.
 
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Bacteria load in the tank and phosphates that are temporarily bound in the rock are just two examples of factors that can render weird results.

That's true. The rate of phosphate adsorption to the rock, or leaching, may modify the ratio of nitrate/phosphate reduction you may theoretically expect.
 
I see people posting about 0 PO4 after installing a scrubber. Heck, i run a scrubber, dose vinegar and run both GFO and GAC, and have a skimmer. I feed heavy: 6 grams of homemade frozen, 8 sq inches of nori, 1 Marine grazzer ring, and a pinch of pellets per day; but I have a lot of fish - a pretty heavy bio load.

My po4 test 2 days ago (4 days after changing GFO) was .03 (Hanna checker) and nitrate about 1.5 with RedSea Pro.

Here are pics of my screen after 10 days and my skimmer after 1 day.
 

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I see people posting about 0 PO4 after installing a scrubber. Heck, i run a scrubber, dose vinegar and run both GFO and GAC, and have a skimmer. I feed heavy: 6 grams of homemade frozen, 8 sq inches of nori, 1 Marine grazzer ring, and a pinch of pellets per day; but I have a lot of fish - a pretty heavy bio load.

My po4 test 2 days ago (4 days after changing GFO) was .03 (Hanna checker) and nitrate about 1.5 with RedSea Pro.

Here are pics of my screen after 10 days and my skimmer after 1 day.

I haven't even got my scrubber running yet and I don't know what the dimensions of your screen are so I'm a noob but IMO it looks too small for that amount of food you listed (but I'm not great with judging size so I could be completely wrong). If you read the posts in Flyod's signature he goes through sizing the screen for the amount of food and correct lighting for the screen size. I would say if you sized your screen to the amount fed and light correctly (you didnt say how you have it lit) then you would possibly be able to remove the GFO and probably stop carbon dosing (stop slowly of course) and keep a similar PO4 level. I think a skimmer and GAC are still good to have as they do slightly different jobs, skimmers remove organics and GAC removes chemicals from soft corals and polishes the water.
 
I haven't even got my scrubber running yet and I don’t know what the dimensions of your screen are so I'm a noob but IMO it looks too small for that amount of food you listed (but I'm not great with judging size so I could be completely wrong). If you read the posts in Flyod's signature he goes through sizing the screen for the amount of food and correct lighting for the screen size. I would say if you sized your screen to the amount fed and light correctly (you didnt say how you have it lit) then you would possibly be able to remove the GFO and probably stop carbon dosing (stop slowly of course) and keep a similar PO4 level. I think a skimmer and GAC are still good to have as they do slightly different jobs, skimmers remove organics and GAC removes chemicals from soft corals and polishes the water.

Screen size is 6x8 (48 square inches per side) and lit on both sides with 23W CFL (1 on each side). Photo period is 18 hours on 6 hours off.

Using the calculator https://docs.zoho.com/sheet/published.do?rid=b0tmj6d91ce368ee542aba6b2b670ae00412b I am feeding just under the max for 48 inches at 3.9 equivalent cubes per day.
 
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Apologies then, 48 square inches should do 4 cubes per day which should be good enough. 23W of CFL is bit on the low side. I think recommended is minimum of 24W each side for a 48 square inch screen, even a bit more could be beneficial, I have been reading up on LEDs so not sure about CFL but they could be the wrong colour temp too?

The only other major factor I can think of is flow. If your screen is 6" wide then it should have around 210GPH of flow. If you have all that then you will have to wait for one of the experts to chime in as I can't think of anything else. I guess if you have all of that down and you want to increase growth try more intense lighting?
 
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Best CFL lights are 2700K-3000K. It sounds like everything is correct except the lights. Like I said I am a complete noob so wait for someone more experienced to confirm but I would say increase your lights wattage and lower the colour temp if you want to stick with CFL lights.
 
I don't remember when I built this thing, maybe 8 weeks ago. I have a very weak temporary LED on it that was probably used for lighting a closet and I also have a five foot algae trough in this tank that grows algae. This also needs more flow but being it also feeds my reverse UG filter I would need to do a lot of re-designing to accomplish that. I have been using mortar and cement in my reef since the 70s. To grow algae and build rocks. Algae loves cement like I love Supermodels.

 
Best CFL lights are 2700K-3000K. It sounds like everything is correct except the lights. Like I said I am a complete noob so wait for someone more experienced to confirm but I would say increase your lights wattage and lower the colour temp if you want to stick with CFL lights.

Actually, I was wrong. I just checked the box and they bulbs are 2700K.
 
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