(Another) DIY LED Build - Linear Design
- Thread starter katchupoy
- Start date
Katchupoy, great thread, I'm glad I read it while planning my 75 gallon. I think your "linear" way of doing this is great. I'm thinking I'll be having the strips of 12 LEDs 9-12" above water, each on a controllable driver. I was going to start with 24 total LEDs (1:1) since I will have no stony corals (zoas, octocoral, and leathers are about all we can do here in Hawaii)), and was trying to figure spacing/optics. I may eventually go to 36, but not sure I'll have to.
Now that you've been modifying your original work, let me ask you:
For 2 strips of 12 LED's each (1 RB, 1 CW), now what do you think is the best front-back spacing and with what optics? Now that you've gone to 3 strips (RB-CW-RB), what do you think?
Your tank looks fantastic in n your photos (and your videos are great too), but I notice there is some coloring of shadows probably because of the 1 color on each strip - does that make you think having 1/2 the RBs and 1/2 the CWs on each strip might be a better way to go? Did going to 3 strips (i assume with closer spacing) fix that?
Thanks. --adam
Now that you've been modifying your original work, let me ask you:
For 2 strips of 12 LED's each (1 RB, 1 CW), now what do you think is the best front-back spacing and with what optics? Now that you've gone to 3 strips (RB-CW-RB), what do you think?
Your tank looks fantastic in n your photos (and your videos are great too), but I notice there is some coloring of shadows probably because of the 1 color on each strip - does that make you think having 1/2 the RBs and 1/2 the CWs on each strip might be a better way to go? Did going to 3 strips (i assume with closer spacing) fix that?
Thanks. --adam
TheFishMan65
New member
The backs of those holes look awfully rough. Did you file them or anything? I worry about them cutting through the insulation.
holes are really small and no I didn't file them. My friend is the one that did the soldering and he is having some problems with the LEDs. They also sent me a 220V driver instead of a 110V so my project is on hold for now.
katchupoy
New member
Thank you Adam for your kind words.
Yes, I agree with you. If you can put half half on both strips, I believe would be best option. But, the only issue im having is the dusk and dawn effect.
a) if you can wire them in such a way that you still control them separately (blue against white), it would be perfect. So you can have the dusk and dawn effect.
b) If you are dimming it via controller. Please get the PWM version driver. It makes your life a lot easier later on when you decide to do Arduino. Remember, that for the time being, PWM version can also run off a 10 volt signal with manual potentiometer.
c) if you do it 3 strips, then half half would work best (2 strips) even if you dont have to separate the wiring for the blue and white. Then the 3rd strip (middle) will be all blue and will do the dusk / dawn effect.
d) If you can find optics wider than 60 would be better. If you can find 90, then i would use it. To me, having no optics is not an option. Its a BIG difference with and without.
e) I will put some red leds on my strip, if i do it again. maybe 4 without optics? so the spread will be everywhere.
f) on the middle part of the strips, I did have like 4" spacing... I made this 8" something on the next two build i did.... Its too close, and the middle tank support creates a shadow.... so its like having 4" spacing on the edges.
Right now, I have 3 strips, and I want to add another strip, and put all the crazy led colors on it for the fun of it. Like Red, Cyan, Violet, etc, etc...
Yes, I agree with you. If you can put half half on both strips, I believe would be best option. But, the only issue im having is the dusk and dawn effect.
a) if you can wire them in such a way that you still control them separately (blue against white), it would be perfect. So you can have the dusk and dawn effect.
b) If you are dimming it via controller. Please get the PWM version driver. It makes your life a lot easier later on when you decide to do Arduino. Remember, that for the time being, PWM version can also run off a 10 volt signal with manual potentiometer.
c) if you do it 3 strips, then half half would work best (2 strips) even if you dont have to separate the wiring for the blue and white. Then the 3rd strip (middle) will be all blue and will do the dusk / dawn effect.
d) If you can find optics wider than 60 would be better. If you can find 90, then i would use it. To me, having no optics is not an option. Its a BIG difference with and without.
e) I will put some red leds on my strip, if i do it again. maybe 4 without optics? so the spread will be everywhere.
f) on the middle part of the strips, I did have like 4" spacing... I made this 8" something on the next two build i did.... Its too close, and the middle tank support creates a shadow.... so its like having 4" spacing on the edges.
Right now, I have 3 strips, and I want to add another strip, and put all the crazy led colors on it for the fun of it. Like Red, Cyan, Violet, etc, etc...
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katchupoy
New member
Very nice and clean. Im going to use channel if im going to do it again and do the same thing you did.
katchupoy
New member
I dont see this as annoyance. I see it as almost very similar to having VHOs on the front and back and MH on the middle. Because of the spacing between VHOs and MHs, they create this blue shadow. Fortunately, I really like that effect. I believe that when you do half half will solve this issue?
Ok guys, what do you think. Won't be much longer and I'll have my LEDs in. Figured I'd start on the heat sink construction. I want opinions on layout first though. I have access to about any aluminum I want so dissipating heat shouldn't be an issue.
The tank is a 65g. 18" front to back and 36" wide, 24" tall. I'll be doing a 1:1 mix of XP-G and XR-E. 24 LEDs of each. LEDs are going to be close to the water surface. Probably 4" above or so inside of a canopy. No optics at this point. Going to try this first.
How's this look for spacing? I don't really want to run any LEDs over the overflow so will I be ok if one of the drivers will run 11 XR-Es and one run 11 XP-Gs? I'm sure it's ok but was curious to see if that will throw anything off setup wise.
The tank is a 65g. 18" front to back and 36" wide, 24" tall. I'll be doing a 1:1 mix of XP-G and XR-E. 24 LEDs of each. LEDs are going to be close to the water surface. Probably 4" above or so inside of a canopy. No optics at this point. Going to try this first.
How's this look for spacing? I don't really want to run any LEDs over the overflow so will I be ok if one of the drivers will run 11 XR-Es and one run 11 XP-Gs? I'm sure it's ok but was curious to see if that will throw anything off setup wise.
westreef
Lost as usual
Hi Katchupoy,Thank you Adam for your kind words.
Yes, I agree with you. If you can put half half on both strips, I believe would be best option. But, the only issue im having is the dusk and dawn effect.
a) if you can wire them in such a way that you still control them separately (blue against white), it would be perfect. So you can have the dusk and dawn effect.
b) If you are dimming it via controller. Please get the PWM version driver. It makes your life a lot easier later on when you decide to do Arduino. Remember, that for the time being, PWM version can also run off a 10 volt signal with manual potentiometer.
c) if you do it 3 strips, then half half would work best (2 strips) even if you dont have to separate the wiring for the blue and white. Then the 3rd strip (middle) will be all blue and will do the dusk / dawn effect.
d) If you can find optics wider than 60 would be better. If you can find 90, then i would use it. To me, having no optics is not an option. Its a BIG difference with and without.
e) I will put some red leds on my strip, if i do it again. maybe 4 without optics? so the spread will be everywhere.
f) on the middle part of the strips, I did have like 4" spacing... I made this 8" something on the next two build i did.... Its too close, and the middle tank support creates a shadow.... so its like having 4" spacing on the edges.
Right now, I have 3 strips, and I want to add another strip, and put all the crazy led colors on it for the fun of it. Like Red, Cyan, Violet, etc, etc...
I have adopted your linear technique and built 2 strips -- one XP-G cw (12 leds) and one XP-E royal blue (12 leds) using C-channels. I use them to replace 2 of my 5 T5HO in my canopy. I just love them. Initially, the c-channels are hot. However, once 2 little fans are on, they are very nice and cool. I just hope my coral love them too-- only 10 days at work and still slowly increasing the intensity.
Now I am reading your new ideas and want to build another 2 strips. You mentioned here that PWM drivers were better way to go. Can you elaborate a little bit? I am using the MeanWell D-version drivers now. Where can I buy the PWM drivers? And any example of how to wire them up. You have been very detail in showing how to do the linear build and have been so helpful for me. Thanks.
TheFishMan65
New member
Nick - I like the first design. Use more blue then white. Most people with XP-G and XP-E are 1 CW : 2 RBs. 11 on a driver is fine, I think the limit is 3 minimum.
Ok guys, what do you think. Won't be much longer and I'll have my LEDs in. Figured I'd start on the heat sink construction. I want opinions on layout first though. I have access to about any aluminum I want so dissipating heat shouldn't be an issue.
The tank is a 65g. 18" front to back and 36" wide, 24" tall. I'll be doing a 1:1 mix of XP-G and XR-E. 24 LEDs of each. LEDs are going to be close to the water surface. Probably 4" above or so inside of a canopy. No optics at this point. Going to try this first.
How's this look for spacing? I don't really want to run any LEDs over the overflow so will I be ok if one of the drivers will run 11 XR-Es and one run 11 XP-Gs? I'm sure it's ok but was curious to see if that will throw anything off setup wise.
48 LEDs for a 65 gal is way to many. I have a friend who has 48 on a 75 gal and he has to turn them way down. He has his whites running at 30% and blues at 80%.
katchupoy
New member
Not to say that 48D is bad... I have two of them... what Im saying is 48P might be a better driver if u are doing arduino/controller type dimming and not manual.
People say that 48D is bad with PWM signal. It works but its bad. Since it requires analog signal compared to 48P version. Right now all three drivers I have (2x48D, 1x48p) are connected to my arduino.
When the pwm signal from arduino sends its signal to 48D drivers, it does not translate well. But with 48P, its really nice and smooth.
This does not mean its the end of the world. Just want to tell everybody that if you plan on dimming it automatically, go for the 48P version.
I mentioned on my earlier post that Im not dimming this via controller. I am so wrong... This Arduino thing is very addictive. And its so nice to see your white and blue dim very slowly. Just my opinion.
Hope this helps.
I will try to make another thread, building arduino controller.
You are correct, actual spacing between LEDs would be about 2.58" OC since they are staggered.
If you guys think 48 LEDs are over done on a 65g, what would you recommend? I'd ultimately like to upgrade to a 90g tank some day which is the same exact tank I have now but 12" wider. Should I stick with the 48 LEDs and just tune them way back for my 65g so in case I get a 90g I can crank them up a bit?
Right now I'm running a stock Nova Extreme Pro 6 x 39w T5HO setup and I think the color is pretty nice. It would be nice to fine tune on it though.
Please do, dumbing it down as much as possible, like you did with your graphs.
I volunteer to color it. :beer:
katchupoy
New member
Nick, if you dont have issues with it being more expensive ($$$) compared to fewer LEDs, then go for it. Since you are running dimmable drivers (?) then you can compensate if its too much. (define too much?) And since you have a deeper tank, i believe this is ok? Also you mentioned going 90, then I guess you are future proof? Go for it.
