anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

This has done what Vortec said it was going to do, make a low cost controllable pump. Or to put it another way. If tunzee and Vortec are ferrari and Lamborghini, then this pump is the Nissan GTR, the same performance for much much less. Can't wait to set up my next tank!

Except the gtr is still really expensive. If say it's more like a mustang with a big turbo and fully upgraded suspension. It'll give those ferraris a run for their money, but it's about as refined as a wooden club. Haha
 
Some of you have been running the pump for a couple weeks, any problem so far?

Mine ran about 4 days on W2 and then a few more on L and last night I hooked up the variable output power converter and set it on 15V. It ran fine for a few hours, turned to night mode and came on this morning. It's working fine and if anything has changed, it's that the pump is quieter than it was a week ago. I can't even hear it now from my computer and I could before. This pump isn't as great as the EverGrow led fixtures, but it a solid second right now. :D

By hooking up the rheostat where the light sensor was means your pump won't go into 'night mode', right?
 
I'll literally have saved thousands of dollars by going with the Evergrow leds and these pumps, and will have premium performance on top of it. It's a good time to be a reefer.
 
I was bored last night and read throught a few threads of evergrow led, bubble magus and what not for Chinese products and must say that they have finally come into their own.the over ridding theme I find though is that there are the detractors of these cost efficient Chinese built items, and that most of these detractors have the same thing in common. They have all bought and ecotech or tunzee or other expressive product. It seems to me their mind set is to bash a good well priced competitive product to make them feel better about spending a premium on the same product and customer service. I for one have never really relied on customer service in the feeding community,(more of a DIY guy) when I have, it usually is spend a little more money to replace the item. I will gladly take the 85$ risk for a pump that will performe the same task as the 4x the amount products do. Move water and help grow coral.
 
Mine ran about 4 days on W2 and then a few more on L and last night I hooked up the variable output power converter and set it on 15V. It ran fine for a few hours, turned to night mode and came on this morning. It's working fine and if anything has changed, it's that the pump is quieter than it was a week ago. I can't even hear it now from my computer and I could before. This pump isn't as great as the EverGrow led fixtures, but it a solid second right now. :D

By hooking up the rheostat where the light sensor was means your pump won't go into 'night mode', right?

If I understand correctly, the light sensor is just a resistor. With adequate light on the sensor, resistance is low and the pump runs. With little or no light, resistantce is high and the pump slows down. A rheostat should work but what we don't know is whether the pump speed is proportional to the resistance or is it just a fast/slow switch. Let us know what you find out Ron.
 
I just got onboard as well. I already have Roberto on board to code functions for control via reefangel. Should be interesting.

Also there is some confusion on my part. Will I need to buy a pwm module or can I go straight to 5v output on my ra?
 
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I tried a 10k linear taper pot on the light sensor slots and I was not able to slow down the pump in any pot setting. I measured the resistance of the light sensor resistor and it went up to 50+k when I covered up the sensor completely. So a 10k rheostat or pot cannot slow down the pump. May be a 100k pot can but I don't have one.
 
I tried a 10k linear taper pot on the light sensor slots and I was not able to slow down the pump in any pot setting. I measured the resistance of the light sensor resistor and it went up to 50+k when I covered up the sensor completely. So a 10k rheostat or pot cannot slow down the pump. May be a 100k pot can but I don't have one.

The only problem I see here is that when the sensor is tripped the pump just goes to half speed. There is no variance. I assume that when you hit a certain resistance the controller cuts to half speed. The other kicker is that all other modes are not an option. The pwm module allows all modes at a reduced flow rate.
 
If I understand correctly, the light sensor is just a resistor. With adequate light on the sensor, resistance is low and the pump runs. With little or no light, resistantce is high and the pump slows down. A rheostat should work but what we don't know is whether the pump speed is proportional to the resistance or is it just a fast/slow switch. Let us know what you find out Ron.

I'm happy with just the variable output DC power converter. I'm not messing with anything else until I have a reef controller and want to hook it in. By then you guys will have this all figured out.

And I want everybody who has jumpped in here and helped with info on the power converter and on re-rigging the controller, that I really appreciate all the help. Ain't RC great. :wave:
 
I shouldnt have opened this thread.... NOW I want one lol

Its simplicity makes it very versatile. Its cost and power make it very desirable. If we already have power supply mods and PWM mods, there are many possibilities for the future if people jump in and work on these.

If they last, they will explode in popularity just like the good chinese lights are doing.
 
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