anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

I have decided after fighting with my 4, four week old Koralia 3250's running on a Smartwave, that the non starting, clunking, and overall poor performance of these units has prompted me to just give up and return them for a refund. I have spent the last four weeks emailing back and forth with Hydor only to eventually be told send the units back to them. They do flow a ton of water, but only one of the 4 units actually starts up without issue, the other 3 units clunk three times, and just shut down 80% of the time; very disappointing to say the least. Fortunately for me, the online retailer I purchased them from offers a 60 day return policy, which I intend to make use of this week.

This is my dream tank build, and although these units were only intended to be a short term solution until I could replenish my build funds for something with more bells and whistles, they have just proved to be a complete and utter waste of time"¦ I have always had good luck with the smaller Koralia's in the past, but obviously these big boys are a different animal"¦

I just finished reading this thread in its entirety and I must say, these units sound impressive. This thread has prompted me to go ahead and pull the trigger and place an order. But like many others, I would like some input from those that are already running these units as to how many you might recommend for my tank. This tank has been up and running for less than a month, and will be a fowlr tank for a while, that will gradually become a reef tank down the road as a lighting upgrades are made.

The tank is approximately 320 gallons; the dimensions are 96" L x 30" W x 26" H.

I am thinking two of the WP-40's might be enough for an 8ft tank after watching some of the videos, but perhaps three of them might leave no doubts in the flow department; or would it be overkill? I know when I took the Koralia 3250's off the Smartwave and actually got them to all come on at once, it was a ridiculous amount of flow.

Not sure, 2 or 3, what say you?
 
Example of a low pass filter.
http://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/experiment/lab/expt2/photos2.html

This will allow the signal (analog) to be converted to pwm.

The filter is a simple board will a resistor and capacitor. The issue is you need the correct values of capacitor and resistor to work.

Hello there.
Could you tell me please why you use low pass filter? , you are using this for the ReefAngel?

i am trying to make my own controller with a arduino mega.
 
Hello there.
Could you tell me please why you use low pass filter? , you are using this for the ReefAngel?

i am trying to make my own controller with a arduino mega.

The low pass filter is used to convert the 5V PWM into an 0-5V analog output that the pimp motor requires. The original Chinese controller also used a low pass filter as the microcontroller in it also produced a 5V PWM natively.

For an Arduino, this would be the easiest way of converting your PWM output to the need 5V analog.

The ReefAngel uses the Arduino platform as its development environment as well as the same Atmel (328P/Mega) microcontrollers.

Dennis
 
Reefcentral hates ebay links? News to me, I assume they don't like people potentially advertizing their own stuff?

Its not that RC hates ebay or has anything against them, but you nailed it with your second sentence. Links to off-site sales are generally not allowed as it unfortunately has not been an uncommon thing for somebody to pop up out of nowhere going "HEY! Look at these awesome _____ I found on ______!" and it turns out with a little digging its their own sale or a sale put up by somebody they know that otherwise would not be able to sell on here. :)

Now back to your regularly scheduled thread! :);)
 
I have decided after fighting with my 4, four week old Koralia 3250's running on a Smartwave, that the non starting, clunking, and overall poor performance of these units has prompted me to just give up and return them for a refund. I have spent the last four weeks emailing back and forth with Hydor only to eventually be told send the units back to them. They do flow a ton of water, but only one of the 4 units actually starts up without issue, the other 3 units clunk three times, and just shut down 80% of the time; very disappointing to say the least. Fortunately for me, the online retailer I purchased them from offers a 60 day return policy, which I intend to make use of this week.

This is my dream tank build, and although these units were only intended to be a short term solution until I could replenish my build funds for something with more bells and whistles, they have just proved to be a complete and utter waste of time"¦ I have always had good luck with the smaller Koralia's in the past, but obviously these big boys are a different animal"¦

I just finished reading this thread in its entirety and I must say, these units sound impressive. This thread has prompted me to go ahead and pull the trigger and place an order. But like many others, I would like some input from those that are already running these units as to how many you might recommend for my tank. This tank has been up and running for less than a month, and will be a fowlr tank for a while, that will gradually become a reef tank down the road as a lighting upgrades are made.

The tank is approximately 320 gallons; the dimensions are 96" L x 30" W x 26" H.

I am thinking two of the WP-40's might be enough for an 8ft tank after watching some of the videos, but perhaps three of them might leave no doubts in the flow department; or would it be overkill? I know when I took the Koralia 3250's off the Smartwave and actually got them to all come on at once, it was a ridiculous amount of flow.

Not sure, 2 or 3, what say you?

Despite the large volume of water the WP40 can move, it is still a stream pump with a flow pattern narrower than Vortech MP40. With your 30" width tank, I would suggest a third WP40 is needed. If it is too much, you can always dial it down with a variable power supply.
 
I got mine Saturday. I have it in a standard 65g. I keep it on low w1 for now. When I tried some of the different modes I looked like a hurricane was passing through. It did stir up tons of stuff from hard to clean spots. So far I love it. I may need to buy a voltage regulator or a small PS, to get to use all the functions. I do have a reefangel, but the built in PWM is being used for my led. I would prob have to buy the expansion modal to use it with the pump.
 
I got mine Saturday. I have it in a standard 65g. I keep it on low w1 for now. When I tried some of the different modes I looked like a hurricane was passing through. It did stir up tons of stuff from hard to clean spots. So far I love it. I may need to buy a voltage regulator or a small PS, to get to use all the functions. I do have a reefangel, but the built in PWM is being used for my led. I would prob have to buy the expansion modal to use it with the pump.

I am surprised you can use it in a tank that small without a voltage regulator. On W1 in my tank there is no way I could run at full voltage or it would spill over the sides.
 
I have been running mine at 18v in a 180g and even then it has blown over a Fiji yellow leather so bad that I had to move the pump. And I don't mean it blew over the rock, it literally forced the coral to lay down almost flat over a couple of weeks! I'm looking forward to the WP25 and would like to run 2 if I can.
 
I have been running mine at 18v in a 180g and even then it has blown over a Fiji yellow leather so bad that I had to move the pump. And I don't mean it blew over the rock, it literally forced the coral to lay down almost flat over a couple of weeks! I'm looking forward to the WP25 and would like to run 2 if I can.

Mine blew a 4 inch SPS right off the rock. lol

I had to turn the pump toward the front glass to not hit the coral directly, and this is at any voltage. Pretty crazy
 
I just emailed them to cancelled my order for the WP40 and asked to send me
(2) WP25 , and when can I expect them , as I know their not out yet..

I have a 120 gallon tank, I'm just setting up , I don't need them for another. Month or so
 
If these have a 5V PWM, then the Steve's LED module should have worked (if it was running the same frequency). Those boards are based off an Arduino. bhazard hooked the pump up to one earlier and couldn't get it to work. I am interested in seeing how we get these interfaced.

On the RA, are you able to run these in sync/anit-sync modes without the controller?
 
If these have a 5V PWM, then the Steve's LED module should have worked (if it was running the same frequency).

The pumps need 0-5v analog. Roberto used a low pass filter on the PWM to get it to work. I would imagine using a low pass filter on the Steve's LED module would do the same but I'm not familiar with it and can't say for sure.


On the RA, are you able to run these in sync/anit-sync modes without the controller?

Out of the box, not yet. It certainly won't take much to code it though. I'm sure once the RA adapter/harness is out people will be coding for this and it might eventually get merged into the RA source as a seperate class.
 
Thanks. I am just wondering what would be required for interfacing with the Apex module. The board that elFloyd referenced earlier is said to be working, but that is a 0-10V interface.
 
Despite the large volume of water the WP40 can move, it is still a stream pump with a flow pattern narrower than Vortech MP40. With your 30" width tank, I would suggest a third WP40 is needed. If it is too much, you can always dial it down with a variable power supply.

Thanks for the advice, just what I was looking for...
 
The pumps need 0-5v analog. Roberto used a low pass filter on the PWM to get it to work. I would imagine using a low pass filter on the Steve's LED module would do the same but I'm not familiar with it and can't say for sure.

Out of the box, not yet. It certainly won't take much to code it though. I'm sure once the RA adapter/harness is out people will be coding for this and it might eventually get merged into the RA source as a seperate class.

This. Nothing PWM will work unless the low pass filter is implemented. Technically, I could probably use the harness with the Stevesled converter the same way the RA will be controlled.

The 0-10v module floyd has might be the best option though, since it keeps the original controller's wave modes. I'm testing that next.

BTW, connecting the VA wire to an Apex cord directly on the positive side and providing less than 5v doesn't spin the pump either. Tried that too.
 
Thanks bhazard for the info. So the harness will eliminate the pump controller and interface directly with the pumps?

I was wanting to interface directly to the Apex and program it to control the waves. That way I have access to feed modes, sync, etc. If I have to use the controller that came with the pumps, it would not be the end of the world.
 
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