anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?
- Thread starter chercm
- Start date
Sacohen
New member
Mine is coming today.
Just need to figure out how to use it, but I know the forums are very helpful.
stancfii
Member
I have mine running on the lowest setting in a 40br. I have a piece of live rock a few inches in front of it to diffuse the flow, and it works great. I'll sell it once I get a wp25, but in the meantime it is working great. My anthia loves swimming in front of it.
octopus737
New member
If only copying and pasting RA sketches to Arduino were that easy. I tried that and I'm sure i did something wrong. From what i gathered i need to make a low pass filter and then hook it up to a PWM on the Arduino. Now I'm just looking for a sketch that i could just upload. That would make this pump so much more fun for everybody.
Colin
New member
I have one on my 83 and it's fine. The only time it's too much is the W1 pulse mode. I use the random Else mode and have it cranked up with no problem.
--C
Ron Reefman
Active member
It has several modes that both pulse and ramp up & down over varying time frames. It does this on it's own, and it does NOT do it directly by varying the voltage from 24v at the motor. Some people are adding on to it in order to lower the max flow from 3200gph.
rrasco
Active member
The Jebao controller sends 0-5v analog to the pump. So in theory, it varies the voltage in that regard. How that voltage is interpreted and handled inside the pump/motor is anyone's guess.
Tickyty
New member
I have caught wind that the new 1.1 design is not a Jaebo invention. They said that it was one of their customers who did this. So it sounds like Fish Street or their distributor is the one who did this. That is probably why they will only sale to those who purchased from them.
Anyone have a line on how we could find out how to get the new cradles for those of us who did not go through Fish Street?
PS. This thread went almost 2 days without a post.
Anyone have a line on how we could find out how to get the new cradles for those of us who did not go through Fish Street?
PS. This thread went almost 2 days without a post.
SimonSKL
New member
If it is true that's really interesting to see a distributor or retailer would improve a product and not the manufacturer. When FS offers the variable power supply I kind thought they did it on their own.
The thread was quiet as we are all patiently waiting for the arrival of the WP25/WP20
Sacohen
New member
Yeah, FS did offer the variable speed power supply on their own.
They are just looking for another way to make a buck and they knew we were all looking for a way to reduce the speed so they took advantage of it even though it is not the correct way to reduce the speed of the pump.
I just got my Reef Angel and have been head deep in that so that's why I've been quite here.
They are just looking for another way to make a buck and they knew we were all looking for a way to reduce the speed so they took advantage of it even though it is not the correct way to reduce the speed of the pump.
I just got my Reef Angel and have been head deep in that so that's why I've been quite here.
SimonSKL
New member
I know the debate about using lower voltages to reduce output of the pump and the potential damage to the pump has been discussed extensively in this thread but I tend to agree with this comment from another thread. Take it for what it is worth.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21444154&postcount=80
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21444154&postcount=80
Ron Reefman
Active member
I just finished a test. I put the WP40 in a 7 gallon bucket of water with a good lid and set it in our house with A/C at 80 degrees (anything below that and my wife thinks it's getting chilly). It ran for 12 hours on W1 setting at 24V. At the end the water was 85 degrees.
I switched the power converter to 18V, still on W1 and at the end of 12 hours guess what the water temperature was? 86 degrees!
I don't think I'll be worrying much about running it on lower voltage.
I switched the power converter to 18V, still on W1 and at the end of 12 hours guess what the water temperature was? 86 degrees!
I don't think I'll be worrying much about running it on lower voltage.
SimonSKL
New member
Ron, interesting experiment and prove the minimal or no heat impact due to lower voltage, considering the margin of error of the thermometer.
Do you think you can try running the same experiment at 10V if you have that option? The reason is that such low voltage should generate the most heat if the pump has to draw more current to start. We have been saying between 12V and 24V is safe so I just want to confirm that.
Tickyty
New member
Simon, I tend to agree with this view as well. I read through that thread and one of the post mentioned the difference between Electrical Engineering and Fluid Dynamics. These are vastly different fields and on this topic I would have to defer to the fluid dynamics experts. In most of the explanations in this thread we are assuming a constant load which is not the case and that is partially why Ron's experiment was within the margin of error. The heat that we expect to generate with the reduced voltage is somewhat mitigated by the reduced power requirement based on the ramping down of the pump from the controller. If Ron ran these at a constant speed he would see a larger difference in the temps one would think. And that would prove the point of both the EE's and Fluids guys.
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SimonSKL
New member
Tickyty, I am glad you share the same view that the load is not constant in fluid dynamics. However, I don't think if the pump is running a constant speed at a reduced voltage vs stop and go as in W1 mode that the pump will run warmer. In contrast I think the pump will run cooler in constant speed because there will not be the spikes of extra current drawn to start the pump in a stop and go wave mode. The extra current in getting a motor in motion is what causes the production of heat.
rrasco
Active member
While I agree with what DWZM says, I am opting to control mine via the VA line because it just makes the most sense. The last thing I want to risk is heating the pump up internally to the point of compromising a water tight seal. Will this happen? Probably not. I have had a pump run dry (forgot to turn it off after using salt mix) and the thing swelled up and I could smell something burning in my fish room. The added benefit of knowing this won't happen, plus the ability to sync the pumps with an external controller is why I chose this method.
Ron Reefman
Active member
I did 18V because that is what I have been running it at for the last 6-8 weeks. My converter only goes down to 15V and I doubt there would be much difference. Sorry.
And rrasco, I agree that this isn't the best way, but so far it's working and heat isn't an issue. Some day when the Chinese make a cheap reef controller I'll probably get one. :lol2::lmao: Just kidding... more or less. My system is very old school with lots of timers and the leds have their own controller. Someday I'll get one, just not in my immediate future. My immediate future is next week in Belize snorkeling and playing in the jungle. May even go see some Mayan temple ruins. :beer:
soundsurfer
New member
Just received 2 WP-40's today. One works flawlessy....the other had startup issues for a few minutes throughout all modes. Now W1 mode won't work if the powerhead is directed in a forward position. I have to put it on the back of the tank and angle it at 45degrees and greater to get it to work smoothly.....anyone else have this problem
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