solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
I don't know if it matters but since the orange line is going through the manifold/reactors, you'll probably get a different GPH output on the specific sea swirl
Bean's 300 Gallon AGE Build
- Thread starter BeanMachine
- Start date
BeanMachine
Active member
I did that so if one return pump goes down, the display will still be circulating. Assuming enough flow left over after the manifold, I can ramp the pump up or down depending. I can always move up to an Vectra L1 for that run after I see how it goes.
BeanMachine
Active member
I got the 1/8" sheet of blue PVC (foamed PVC or Expanded PVC... I still don't know the difference if any) for under the sump and to cover the plumbing shelf in back.
Stay tuned!
Stay tuned!
acesq
Premium Member
I like the plumbing set up, but don't think the M1's are going to give you much flow out of the SS the way you have the outputs split up. My experience with the Ecotecs is that they don't handle head pressure very well and you are going to end up with well less than 2000 gph from them in this set up. I would recommend L1s, but since its not a closed loop, you would have to deal with alot of flow through the sump which gets noisy.
This may be too drastic a change for you but I'd use one of the M1s to run the manifold and UV, dumping all back in the sump. You may need to dial it down a bit, but probably not much if at all. I have an L1 running a manifold with three outlets, a UV and a 40g frag tank and I can barely get carbon to tumble without choking down the UV or frag tank too much. My UV needs 800+gph which is most of an M1 after you factor in head loss.
I'd use the other to M1 as the sole return pump on one SS and turn the other two into seasweeps and attach Tunze 6105s to them. Then you can blast the tank with flow from all directions without running too much water through the sump.
Just my 2 cents.
SchnitzelReef
Active member
Bean's 300 Gallon AGE Build
In the 3+ years of running my bean animal overflow, my emergency drain has been used ZERO times. Lol
Save yourself the extra plumbing ditch the 2 emergency drains. Will look way cleaner. And there's no way all 4 drains will get clogged. The 3rd and 4th drain really act as emergency drains. Something to think about.
If somehow 1 drain ever did get clogged, the other 3 drains will just take over. Emergency drains will never be used.
In the 3+ years of running my bean animal overflow, my emergency drain has been used ZERO times. Lol
Save yourself the extra plumbing ditch the 2 emergency drains. Will look way cleaner. And there's no way all 4 drains will get clogged. The 3rd and 4th drain really act as emergency drains. Something to think about.
If somehow 1 drain ever did get clogged, the other 3 drains will just take over. Emergency drains will never be used.
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SchnitzelReef
Active member
I'm running ALOT of flow through my sump. It's not noisy. It's all about how you set them up.
BeanMachine
Active member
Thanks for the advice. What return pumps would you recommend if I keep to my plan?
2 x L1s?
Do the Red Dragon pumps handle the head pressure better? I see the RD3 80 watt or the 230 watt pumps.
***Or what about a RD3 230 for the 3 Sea Swirls, and an M1 for my Manifold? I wouldn't have the redundancy I was looking for though. That way I only need to buy one more pump. I can always upgrade the M1 at a later date. I've spent a ton of dough so far hehe I am running on fumes.
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acesq
Premium Member
I use the RD3 230 as my return. 1.5" pipe, 35' run with a 5' rise from my remote sump to a single outlet in the tank. I figured I was getting 1800 - 2000 gph but I hooked up the Apex flow meter and found that I only get 1200ghp wide open! That shows you how much head pressure cuts back the flow even for the RD3. I used to run an L1, but it put out much less with that back pressure so I only use it for the manifold/UV/frag tank.
I use two rd3 230s for my closed loop and with no backpressure they put out a ton of flow. But from what I've seen only the Abyzz can handle alot of head pressure.
I wouldn't go with less than an L-1 for your return pump especially if you keep your current design. If you can swing an RD3 230 or 2, it would be better.
BeanMachine
Active member
What about ditching the idea of having two return pumps, and instead using a RD3 230 for all three Sea Swirls, then using the M1 I have to power the Manifold?
Oooor if I don't go with an RD3 230... which Abyzz pump would suffice for the return?
acesq
Premium Member
True, especially at the tank overflow. I don't care about noise in my sump because its in a separate room, but I did find it a bit noisier when I increased the flow.
Have you bought the FMM yet to see how much flow you have through the sump? I was shocked to see how little I am getting. I figure it works well enough as it is so I'm not going to run out and buy an Abyzz, but I think once more people start measuring their flow, we're going to find the we have overestimated our flow by alot.
SchnitzelReef
Active member
Bean's 300 Gallon AGE Build
No FMM, didn't want to hassle with redoing all my plumbing. I'm running a Fluval Sea SP6. It's rated at 3400gph.
The only thing running off my manifold is a 1/4" line going to my calcium reactor. I don't think it takes away too much flow. My return plumbing is all 1.25". I imagine I'm getting at least 2000gph. Also my sump is directly below my tank.
No FMM, didn't want to hassle with redoing all my plumbing. I'm running a Fluval Sea SP6. It's rated at 3400gph.
The only thing running off my manifold is a 1/4" line going to my calcium reactor. I don't think it takes away too much flow. My return plumbing is all 1.25". I imagine I'm getting at least 2000gph. Also my sump is directly below my tank.
SchnitzelReef
Active member
Your set on D.C. Pumps?
Run 1 Fluval SP6 as your return and keep the M1 as your manifold. I can guarantee you the SP6 will be sufficient flow for those 3 sea swirls.
My SP6 has been running for 3 years and hasn't skipped a beat. I've only pulled it out to clean it 1 time in 3 years. Askoll motor for the win!
acesq
Premium Member
Is that a closed loop?
BeanMachine
Active member
Same with me on my SP4. No not dead set on anything really. I am on my drains though hahahaha but seriously I'm not in a rush to get this done.
Thanks Ivan. I'll give you a call. Maybe I can come by on Sunday if your free. Your tank is bigger and you have your sump further away than mine will be.
BeanMachine
Active member
Anyone have any experience with the RD3 150?
I am thinking about using the M1 for the manifold, using 3/4" pipe and valves since I already have them.
And going with 1" pipe for the Sea Swirl Returns powered by the RD3 150. Or possibly a Vectra L1 or even a RD3 230 if it would fit. I thought the RD3 150 at 4600 gph plus would be plenty.
Thanks Steve. Will do. Decisions decisions. I need to decide this before I plumb the returns. I have 3/4" pipe and fittings which is a problem if I up size the pumps. I may get some 1" pipe to plumb the returns, but stick to 3/4 on the manifold.
I don't want to feed a manifold off my drain mainly due to the equipment staying clean and free of detritus waste or uneaten food from the overflows. I'd rather the water be fed from the return section after its passed by the socks and skimmer.
I am thinking about using the M1 for the manifold, using 3/4" pipe and valves since I already have them.
And going with 1" pipe for the Sea Swirl Returns powered by the RD3 150. Or possibly a Vectra L1 or even a RD3 230 if it would fit. I thought the RD3 150 at 4600 gph plus would be plenty.
Thanks Steve. Will do. Decisions decisions. I need to decide this before I plumb the returns. I have 3/4" pipe and fittings which is a problem if I up size the pumps. I may get some 1" pipe to plumb the returns, but stick to 3/4 on the manifold.
I don't want to feed a manifold off my drain mainly due to the equipment staying clean and free of detritus waste or uneaten food from the overflows. I'd rather the water be fed from the return section after its passed by the socks and skimmer.
BeanMachine
Active member
If I were to go with a RD 150, where would you reduce the outlet to connect to the sea swirls? The RD 150 has a 1.25" outlet. Would it be OK if I reduced it to 1" right after the pump, then use 1" pipe all the way up to the 3 x Sea Swirls?
For the 230, it has a 1.5" outlet.
For the 230, it has a 1.5" outlet.
SchnitzelReef
Active member
If you want the least amount of head loss, I would run 1.25" all the way to the sea swirls.
I know someone that used the same return pump as me, but used 1" flex tubing..the flow was just ok. I ran my return plumbing 1.25" all the way to the tank, my flow has to be twice as much. I was surprised 1/4" made that big of a difference. Also I'm sure flex tubing didn't help.
