Bean's 300 Gallon AGE Build

I rather move to the final place first then test leak. Sometime moving a heavy tank because of movement in the PVC joint which can cause leak
 
My tank is sort of in the middle of the room its in. It needs to be pushed back about a foot and a half to its final resting spot.

So I've got a question for you all, would you fill the tank and sump with RODI, run it in its current place, to check for any leaks first? Then empty the tank and sump? Move it, then refill?

Its going to take several guys to move the tank and stand, so I'd rather move it once.



What I did when I started my tank, was fill my overflows with water first. That way if there was a leak, I was able to fix it before the tank was full of water.
 
What I did when I started my tank, was fill my overflows with water first. That way if there was a leak, I was able to fix it before the tank was full of water.

Did you just cap the drains at the sump, or did you just run water through your overflow and let it drain into the sump?
 
I rather move to the final place first then test leak. Sometime moving a heavy tank because of movement in the PVC joint which can cause leak

Thanks that is a good point. I guess I should slide my tank into its permanent spot before I glue anything. Its just that it would be easier to get behind the tank and do that work while its away from the wall.
 
Did you just cap the drains at the sump, or did you just run water through your overflow and let it drain into the sump?



I capped all 3 of my drains at the sump, and let the pipes fill with water. There was a small leak on the gate valve. I was able to crawl underneath and fix it. No biggie.
 
This week my goal is to paint the plywood under the tank and stand bottom with some gray kilz. Cut the aluminum strut, paint, and mount it under the tank.
 
Tagging along BeanMachine - killer tank and looks like a great build. I'm looking at a 72x32x28 AGE tank as well for my dream build starting early next year - the steel frames really I think will make for a strong, long lasting tank. Is your stand from AGE as well, and is it the no center brace option?
 
LOL, the primary goal of all the Mikes on this thread is to goad Cody into getting his ytank up and running!

LOL I will politely ignore him! :)

Build looks really good, keep the updates coming.

Cody we need updates.
are you getting it wet soon?

I have decided to finish a few house projects first. Working on the backyard currently. My daughter needs a nice yard to play in. Once we are more dialed in at the new place I will continue.

Sorry guys but it will happen! I just want to have enough time to dedicate to the tank and definitely am not going to rush it. I mean I've had the tank since last October. :)
 
Tagging along BeanMachine - killer tank and looks like a great build. I'm looking at a 72x32x28 AGE tank as well for my dream build starting early next year - the steel frames really I think will make for a strong, long lasting tank. Is your stand from AGE as well, and is it the no center brace option?

Yes no bracing. Its 3/4" on all sides with upgraded 2" steel bracing top and bottom. I also added the acrylic eurobrace to help prevent any splashing and add additional support.

It is seriously a tank and why I purchased it. Its very nice quality.
 
Back from the dead!

For those that have used Starboard for the tank bottom (under the rocks and sand), would that be necessary for me given my tank has a PVC bottom?

Would you still install the starboard?

Next for the rock structures- For the rods, I plan to use 3/4" or 1" pvc pipe. Would acrylic rod of the same diameter be better, or would that be overkill? I mean I like overkill but...
 
I hope to get some water in the tank by Reef-A-Palooza on October 7th and 8th. That way it only took a year to get the tank wet. :P
 
I've always been weary of using hollow pipe for rock structure, only because water gets in and doesn't circulate adequately - who knows if that is a problem or not, but I err on the side of caution. But 1/4" fiberglass rod or 3/8" acrylic rod is likely fine, maybe up to 1/2" acrylic if rock structure is really huge. Reinforce rock to rock connections with expoxy, super glue, etc.

I've got a quote on my 280 AGE tank, so am eagerly watching your build for pointers! : )
 
I've always been weary of using hollow pipe for rock structure, only because water gets in and doesn't circulate adequately - who knows if that is a problem or not, but I err on the side of caution. But 1/4" fiberglass rod or 3/8" acrylic rod is likely fine, maybe up to 1/2" acrylic if rock structure is really huge. Reinforce rock to rock connections with expoxy, super glue, etc.

I've got a quote on my 280 AGE tank, so am eagerly watching your build for pointers! : )

Thanks. Very nice. I've got about 300 lbs of dry BRS Pukani rock to play with. Some are really big pieces. I should be able to create something pretty epic.

I will just use acrylic rods then. Paragon Plastics in Santa Ana isn't too far from me.

The goal is to start making progress labor day weekend.
 
Awesome - that is a ton of rock - epic is the right word. I like that you are taking your time and doing it right. Looking forward to updates.
 
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