Building My 375gal Glass Reef

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Thanks for all the compliments, everyone. :)

Well, over the weekend I managed to get a little done on the electrical side. I installed three receptacle boxes, under the tank, each with 4 outlets. The trick was, I need both normal power access and, in addition, controlled power access - that being power points which can be controlled by my AC-III Pro. I wanted 6 non-controlled outlets and 6 controlled, so I decided to see if I could combine them into one installation. I decided to run 7 complete lines (hot, common, ground) and use 1 for the non-controlled and each of the remaining 6 for a controlled outlet.

I like things to be as neat as possible (has something to do with being a pedant :cool: ) so I went to the local Big Box and bought some white PVC baseboard 5 1/2 inches wide and 8 feet long. I placed the three outlet boxes on the board and used 1 inch PVC conduit to connect them. Came out looking like this:

Left side ...

Under-Tank-Left.jpg


The box on the left has 4 non-controlled outlets - that's the reason there are no labels to be seen.

Right side ...

Under-Tank-Right.jpg


For the non-controlled outlets, it was just a matter of wiring the 6 outlets directly to the common non-controlled circuit. Each of the 6 controlled outlets had to be wired separately - one to each outlet. That looked like this:

Distribution-Box-left.jpg


Above, you can see controlled outlets for the sump return pump, the fuge/frag return pump, one misc. controlled outlet, and one non-controlled outlet.

The next pic shows controlled outlets for both skimmers and the ozone generator, in addition to one non-controlled outlet. The receptacles are different colors because Home Depot decided to stop stocking brown ones. :(

Distribution-Box-right.jpg
 
Here's a pic of the lines going up to the main power distribution center. It's just 1" PVC conduit:

Distribution-Line.jpg


At the end of the lines, I added normal 120V electrical plugs so that each of the lines could be plugged into either a normal power receptacle (the the non-controlled outlets) or the AC-III's DC-8 power control module.

I placed the connections inside a normal junction/outlet box:

DC8-Distribution.jpg


The DC-8 (and the plugs themselves) has labels attached which correspond to the labels found on the outlets.

DC8.jpg


All in all, the whole thing worked out pretty well. I'm pleased with it. Whether it proves itself in everyday use, we will soon find out. :D
 
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Tom,

It looks like you have the back of your light rack on now. If so can you take a pictures of the lightrack fully assembled?

Great work on the electrical work!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13716760#post13716760 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Elliott
hey Tom, care to visit me in Scottsdale? I want my fish room to look like that! wow :rollface:

Thanks Elliot!

My secret is - I have absolutely nothing else to do ... :cool:
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13716777#post13716777 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by zmckenzie
Tom,

It looks like you have the back of your light rack on now. If so can you take a pictures of the lightrack fully assembled?

Great work on the electrical work!

Sure - I'll have it for you soon. :)
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13716784#post13716784 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
Thanks Elliot!

My secret is - I have absolutely nothing else to do ... :cool:

Me too:p :p :p I'm working on my equipment room in the basement at the moment, under where my DT will go. I will be running all my electrical in PVC like yours. I hope mine turns out as neat as yours. Great job.
 
Wow Tom, great job.. your attention to detail and neatness is what most should strive for. I wish I had the electrical ability as you do. That is one thing that is going to hold me up on my build I am afraid. KUDOS!! ;)
 
You might be violating on your conduit and/or junction box fill but it's probably not a big deal. Biggest reason for the code is to prevent heating, but you probably won't be drawing much current. The DC 8 is limited to 15A, I believe.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13719361#post13719361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lakee911
You might be violating on your conduit and/or junction box fill but it's probably not a big deal. Biggest reason for the code is to prevent heating, but you probably won't be drawing much current. The DC 8 is limited to 15A, I believe.
Yes, the DC-8 has a 15A limit. Everything on the addition will be around 700 watts.

Thanks for you're input. I really don't want to burn the place down. :(
 
I may have missed it somewhere reading through this thread, so sorry in advance. Is the 1.5" sanitary tee really important or can you use a standard 1.5" tee?

The reason I ask is that I would like to integrate the same type of system on my tank only utilizing 1" piping all the way to the sump and I do not think they make a 1" sanitary tee.

Thanks in Advance!

Brandon
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13719570#post13719570 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chetscc
Is the 1.5" sanitary tee really important or can you use a standard 1.5" tee? Brandon
I don't think it's absolutely necessary. The sanitary tee lends itself a little better to the application than a standard tee, but both will work fine.
 
Doesn't a sanitary tee have a "sweep" where the center connections joins as opposed to a regular tee where it's square? Does that make sense?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13723465#post13723465 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EnglishRebel
Doesn't a sanitary tee have a "sweep" where the center connections joins as opposed to a regular tee where it's square? Does that make sense?
Yes. The sanitary tee sorta transitions from straight to 90deg gently. Where a standard tee just changes abruptly from straight to 90deg.
 
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