Calcium reactor vs. 2 part

aquamann183

New member
Hello everyone, I'm just curious as to the differences between a calcium reactor and 2 part dosing..
Things I'd like to know.

Cost differences
Which one is more simplistic
The different benefits of each method
Long term maintenance, cost, etc..

The calcium reactor just looks expensive. I believe it has a co2 tank and external pump? Seems pretty bulky, lol.

Just let me know anything that you can think of. I honestly know nothing about calcium reactors.

Thank you all!
Happy reefing!


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Watch YouTube videos to learn more. If you have large setup Ca reactor will be cheaper in long run but 2 part dosing is a simpler method. I switch from manual 2 part dosing of 175ml/day to a reactors and wish I had done it sooner. Yes it involves a CO2 canister and other equipment, but if you use an apex controller it makes it very easy to monitor and adjust.


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Cost differences
Carx costs more to initially setup.
Dosing will cost more in chemicals over time

Which one is more simplistic
To begin with 2 part dosing is easier to get your head around. Once you dial in a Carx its very simple to use. I find I do a lot less testing because I know the levels are correct.

The different benefits of each method
Dosing you can dial in each element as you want them to be. (Carx will find a level and the elements stay in proportion to eachother)
Carx is very stable, more of a natural way to dose the elements needed.

Long term maintenance, cost, etc..
Carx will need gas and media at regular intervals (depending on size of bottle and tank size)
Ongoing cost for dosing will be chemicals, If buying in bulk it will be cheaper, than 1kg packages

If you can outlay for a Calcium Reactor, I would do it. I will not go back now that I have a calcium reactor and have seen the benefits of growth and stability in my tank.
 
I've never tried a calcium reactor, but after dosing manually for a while I set up a Kamoer 3 channel for Ca, Alk, and Mg. After a few water tests and adjustments, couldn't be easier. The Kamoer is nice in that it can be calibrated which I do every 2-3 months. There's a newer one with wifi control.
 
The big benefit of the reactor is that it adds all the elements that corals need. Since you are dissolving dead coral skeletons the additions are in the right proportion ranges. A much more elegant alternative than dosing, though clearly the latter works as well.

By the time you have bought the reactor, gas cylinder and regulator, you're at or above $1K. Buy a dual cylinder unit and a masterflex pump, and you're much higher than that. Not really worth it for a smaller tank.
 
Thank you all for your informative replies.

I think due to cost and what not I will do dosing for now. It's for a 150g mixed reef. Nothing too crazy, but in the future I will go with the reactor.

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I'm about to embark on my first attempt at dosing rather than using a CA Rx so I can only tell you my experiences with the latter. I loved my reactor but I wanted to try dosing just for the experience. I could end up switching back. There are a few very important points to having a successful reactor experience.

First, don't go cheap. With Ca Rx, you get what you pay for. I have a Geo and it was bullet proof. Lifereef is also really solid and there are several other good options out there.

Second, the most important piece of equipment on your setup is the regulator. Unless you get a really good one, needle valves are a complete PIA (they control the bubble rate of the CO2 into the reactor. I love my Aquarium Plants electronic regulator. Just turn a dial to control the bubble rate.

Three, you really need to set up a pH probe in the reactor (don't buy one that doesn't have a port for this). The pH probe hooked up to a controller will tell you when you've lowered your pH sufficiently in the reactor so that it is dissolving the media. Turn on the CO2 when the pH gets too high and turn it off when it hits the sweet spot.

Four, how you move water to/from the reactor is very important. I fed the reactor with a tee off of my return pump using a ball valve. This provided sufficient pressure into the reactor chamber to ensure a solid drip rate on the output. Others prefer a dosing pump since it will be more consistent.

Five, if you're not going to use a dosing pump, buy a box of cheap 1/4" ball valves for controlling the effluent line. Change them out every couple of months and you won't have to worry about clogs (they are about fifty cents each if you buy a bunch.
 
I'm about to embark on my first attempt at dosing rather than using a CA Rx so I can only tell you my experiences with the latter. I loved my reactor but I wanted to try dosing just for the experience. I could end up switching back. There are a few very important points to having a successful reactor experience.

First, don't go cheap. With Ca Rx, you get what you pay for. I have a Geo and it was bullet proof. Lifereef is also really solid and there are several other good options out there.

Second, the most important piece of equipment on your setup is the regulator. Unless you get a really good one, needle valves are a complete PIA (they control the bubble rate of the CO2 into the reactor. I love my Aquarium Plants electronic regulator. Just turn a dial to control the bubble rate.

Three, you really need to set up a pH probe in the reactor (don't buy one that doesn't have a port for this). The pH probe hooked up to a controller will tell you when you've lowered your pH sufficiently in the reactor so that it is dissolving the media. Turn on the CO2 when the pH gets too high and turn it off when it hits the sweet spot.

Four, how you move water to/from the reactor is very important. I fed the reactor with a tee off of my return pump using a ball valve. This provided sufficient pressure into the reactor chamber to ensure a solid drip rate on the output. Others prefer a dosing pump since it will be more consistent.

Five, if you're not going to use a dosing pump, buy a box of cheap 1/4" ball valves for controlling the effluent line. Change them out every couple of months and you won't have to worry about clogs (they are about fifty cents each if you buy a bunch.
Thank you for the reply,
I'd appreciate it if you let me know your opinion compared to dosing once you start doing that. Did you buy a dosing pump for your dosing? If so, what did you buy?

Also, to buy more 2 part brs solution I believe it's around $50 for the bulk pack..How long does that last in an average reef tank?


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I've done both. I'll never dose again. Sure, it's easier at first and cheaper, but when your doser stays on and sends a gallon of alk into your tank while sleeping it can get rather expensive. Granted it was a GHL or anything that high end, but still.

I have a geo CaRx now set up with a aquarium plants doser and all is set on my apex for redundancy. Took a lil while to get it dialed in, but now it's set. Won't ever go back
 
I've done both. I'll never dose again. Sure, it's easier at first and cheaper, but when your doser stays on and sends a gallon of alk into your tank while sleeping it can get rather expensive. Granted it was a GHL or anything that high end, but still.

I have a geo CaRx now set up with a aquarium plants doser and all is set on my apex for redundancy. Took a lil while to get it dialed in, but now it's set. Won't ever go back
Eeeeek! That sounds horrible. That is one thing that can suck about that hobby. But people even have heaters that go bad and fry their tank. It really blows when something that's pretty much out of your control like that happens. Yes you can get a controller for "insurance", but that's a decent investment as well.

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Yeah my apex control my ato, co2 and heater. Other than that I run my main pump off it and some random powerheads.
 
I pondered this for a while, but ultimately decided on a doser for a few reasons.

- I didn't feel comfortable running a CR without a ph controller in the reactor and a monitor in the tank. I don't have (or really want) a controller so I would have needed to buy these, or buy a controller.
- reactor has a much larger footprint, especially if you run a second chamber
- tank ph is generally lower
- to really set it and forget it, you need a really good regulator and a good peristaltic feed pump
- need to have two more pumps running 24/7

For me it was just far easier and made more sense to buy a GHL. If you have a controller already, some extra space and maybe a manifold coming off your return pump, you don't have a lot of the same issues I did.
 
The big benefit of the reactor is that it adds all the elements that corals need. Since you are dissolving dead coral skeletons the additions are in the right proportion ranges. A much more elegant alternative than dosing, though clearly the latter works as well.

By the time you have bought the reactor, gas cylinder and regulator, you're at or above $1K. Buy a dual cylinder unit and a masterflex pump, and you're much higher than that. Not really worth it for a smaller tank.
+1
I got both C.R and Libra , both work great but you can not dose what you melt w/calcium Reactor.
 
which dosing pumps are you guys using on your Ca reactors? do you have to worry about the pump output fluctuating as the tubing gets old or differences in the output when you change tubing?
 
which dosing pumps are you guys using on your Ca reactors? do you have to worry about the pump output fluctuating as the tubing gets old or differences in the output when you change tubing?

Masterflex. Check the thread out. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2368618

The tubing we use is a Pharmed BPT. It's rated for thousands of hours of use. Depending on the RPM you use it can last well over a year but most of us change it quarterly. Cheap and easy, especially with an Easy-Load head. Of course the system can come with a sticker shock :)
 
Have had a Korallin reactor for 15 years and won't go back.

Agree with what is said above. But also its just a whole lot easier than dosing. Money-wise I probably spent less on the equipment than I would have spent on 15 years of weekly Alk, pH, and Mg tests that I was doing when I dosed. I haven't tested any of those for years.

I have a 20 lb CO2 tank "rented" from the local welding supply. Refills are <$20 and last over a year. I probably go thru 2 ARMs a year. I had to replace the Eheim pump once. The solenoid failed after a couple of years and I never replaced it. I am also on my 2nd regulator, the old one rusted out.

Mine is teed off of the sump return pump - no need for a separate feed. I control the flow with squeeze valves on the outflows. It runs 24/7, a drip every second or two and a bubble per drip.

I check it daily to make sure it's still dripping and bubbling. Eventually the drips stop and you have to adjust the squeeze valves. When the ARM goes down about 50% you need new ARM because you get particles that clog the valves.

If you don't have room for a big CO2 tank, put it in a closet or basement and run the air tube to your sump.
 
Mine is teed off of the sump return pump - no need for a separate feed. I control the flow with squeeze valves on the outflows. It runs 24/7, a drip every second or two and a bubble per drip.

I check it daily to make sure it's still dripping and bubbling. Eventually the drips stop and you have to adjust the squeeze valves. When the ARM goes down about 50% you need new ARM because you get particles that clog the valves.

These are all things that people don't generally want to deal with and are eliminated in the system I propose.

I too have a Koralin reactor setup but it is setup with a masterflex and a two stage reg with a parker needle valve. I've checked in on it twice in the last few months.

It's still a good idea to regularly test your reef regardless of method. Tank demand changes with time that requires a change in dosing.
 
I switched to a calcium reactor a few months back after years of dosing.

I looooooove using a reactor. I will never go back to dosing.
 
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