Chinese LED Lights

Looks great Ron. I am not concerned with blue/purple/pink/white. As long as the color of the corals and fish explode, that is what I care about. I want the reds, greens, oranges, yellows, and blues to pop. Yours do that very well.

Just got word that my stand will be ready next weekend. This means I should be setting up the tank shortly after. I have to stain and seal it.
 
Thanks guys. I'm really happy with the look. I was just getting used to the yellow 10K MH which kind of made the tank look 'off'. Now the white is so cool and crisp with hardy more than a hint of blue. The whole tank just looks like it lit up! Now if I can just get a handle on the finner points of the controller software! Anybody know how to do the factory setting change?
 
Ron Reefman said:
Getting my IT2080's into my canopy was way easier than I thought it would be. And more importantly, they look way better than I thought they would. I set them at 80% blue and 60% white for the picture below, then I dialed them down. They don't have much purple tint to them at all. They look a lot better than the IT2040 over the nem tank. But Elaine, my wife, says she thinks the purple tint is due to the fact that everything in the tank is mostly purple. There's a ton of coraline algae on 3 glass sides and all over the rocks, there is a fair amount of purple macro algae and I hate to admit it, but there is a bit of purple cyano that bloomed a few weeks ago but id dying back now.
Click to expand...


would you say thats 18k?
 
Ron Reefman said:
Dec302012FTSwithnewleds.jpg
Click to expand...

Tank looks awesome. I constantly debate between 100% for 10k, or 100% blue 45% white for the 14-16k look. Depends on my mood.

As far as the software, just go into menu/custom

Change the time points from 1 HR to 0:30min
Change each half hour time point to whatever you want.
Hit preview to watch all the settings over the 24HR change every 5-10 seconds.
Hit menu to exit. Hit save to save the settings so you don't lose them if the power to the unit is cut.

I'll be selling off my custom IT2040 with cyans on ebay or another forum, as I can't sell it here (probation period)
 
I'd PM you about the IT2040s after following your other thread, but cannot yet.

I'm looking seriously at these fixtures for my 180g I'm building and have a few questions.

bhazard451 said:
Tank looks awesome. I constantly debate between 100% for 10k, or 100% blue 45% white for the 14-16k look. Depends on my mood.

As far as the software, just go into menu/custom

Change the time points from 1 HR to 0:30min
Change each half hour time point to whatever you want.
Hit preview to watch all the settings over the 24HR change every 5-10 seconds.
Hit menu to exit. Hit save to save the settings so you don't lose them if the power to the unit is cut.

I'll be selling off my custom IT2040 with cyans on ebay or another forum, as I can't sell it here (probation period)
Click to expand...
 
latinyoungn, I think of 18K as being quite blue. At 80:60 these lights are a very white, like a photo printed on bright whie paper. There isn't any yellow or blue or purple, just white. It makes the tank look so clean and fresh. The photo has a bit of a blue cast due to the canopy. And the way the light makes the canopy fabric lit up is pretty cool as well.

bhazard451, thanks alot man. I appreciate your comments and thanks for the controller tips. I can't wait to try again in the morning. I think I may move these lights about 2-3" more toward the front of the tank. They are currently dead center of the front to back. But with the steep rock wall I have some pretty serious shadowing. I hope moving the lights forward a bit and tipping them back slightly will help. I also intend to take the lenses off the moon lights and all the non blue or white leds.

jwoyshnar, direct from EverGrow in China or Reef Breeders in the US. I delt with Helen at EverGrow and she was very helpful. Here is a link to her:
EverGrow-Helen(sales05@evergrowlighting.com)

rad1687, I'll do a few PAR readings and post them later this morning. At 80% blue and 60% white I was getting a PAR of 125 at 22" underwater (lights are about 6" off the water).
 
Ron Reefman said:
latinyoungn, I think of 18K as being quite blue. At 80:60 these lights are a very white, like a photo printed on bright whie paper. There isn't any yellow or blue or purple, just white. It makes the tank look so clean and fresh. The photo has a bit of a blue cast due to the canopy. And the way the light makes the canopy fabric lit up is pretty cool as well.

bhazard451, thanks alot man. I appreciate your comments and thanks for the controller tips. I can't wait to try again in the morning. I think I may move these lights about 2-3" more toward the front of the tank. They are currently dead center of the front to back. But with the steep rock wall I have some pretty serious shadowing. I hope moving the lights forward a bit and tipping them back slightly will help. I also intend to take the lenses off the moon lights and all the non blue or white leds.

jwoyshnar, direct from EverGrow in China or Reef Breeders in the US. I delt with Helen at EverGrow and she was very helpful. Here is a link to her:
EverGrow-Helen(sales05@evergrowlighting.com)

rad1687, I'll do a few PAR readings and post them later this morning. At 80% blue and 60% white I was getting a PAR of 125 at 22" underwater (lights are about 6" off the water).
Click to expand...

Thanks Ron
 
nikesb, set at 60:30 and 6" deep I got a PAR of 300-325. The sensor was tipped some so if I could have made it straight up and down it would have been 325 maybe even 350.

rad1687, at 100:100 and 12" the PAR was 550. At 100:45 and 12" deep the PAR was 425. So dropping about 25% of the total power and it lost about 25% of it's PAR. Is there a relationship or is that just a curiousity? I don't know.
 
Ive been wondering about the par drop compared with the percentage too. If its close enough, maybe its a good base for some to use without par meters. The local club par meter has a long wait list here.
 
nikesb said:
Ive been wondering about the par drop compared with the percentage too. If its close enough, maybe its a good base for some to use without par meters. The local club par meter has a long wait list here.
Click to expand...

When I get some spare time I'll do some testing and report my findings back here. I just moved my IT2080's over the 180g DT forward 3" and now I'm getting a less shadow down the front of my rock wall and corals. Pretty happy with that. Now I'm going to take apart one of my new D120s and pull a bunch of lenses. It doesn't cover the length of my 55g QT with the lenses on. One of the other buyers in my group took lenses off his IT2080 and he said the light spread out quite a bit. I think we got the new Bridgelux 90 degree leds, but he said it made a difference.
 
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