Chinese LED Lights
- Thread starter cmac23
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King Nine
New member
I think that is a interesting question. I don't think it would work for the following reason. Most people like the blue 14 to 20k look. To achieve that with an equal use of RGB would mean really dialing back the Red and Green led's. This probably wouldn't leave enough blue LEDs to grow coral with. There are probably even better reasons why not but I'm no physisist. I just took a physics class in college many years ago and remember the light mixing portion fairly well. You are right though. You should be able to dial in whatever temp color you want with that set up. Id sure love someone to try.
King Nine
New member
What optics are you using? I have 90s on order for mine but someone mentioned that I should go with 120s.
I have a 72 Gal Bowfront and right now only have some softies and a small Zoa Frag. I want to be able to do SPS/LPS and Softies at a look of 12000k to 14000k. Will one D120 be enough if centered with no optics under a hood, hung about 6-8 inches off the water? I don't mind my edges being a litte softer lit, as it provides a little depth in my opinion, but if it will be wicked noticeable, then I would go with two. Thank for all the information.
D
Deleted member 286866
With one unit it will be a lot softer on the edges, but you could try it and just get a second one later. I think eventually that you will need at least 100LEDs and maybe more so two 16"' or one 32" fixture to cover a 48 x 18 x 22 SPS/LPS/clam tank properly. You could play with the optics a little so the front middle of the tank has 120* optics and the rest 90* optics. Probably the RB 4' optics layout with the back rows all 90*'s would work nicely.
I was in my local fish store yesterday and spotted the Maxspect Razor R420R M16000.
Its suppose to approximate a 16000K color temperature. The color was perfect IMHO. I have the D120 and the razor looks better IMHO.
So im shooting for the look that the razor achieves.
They're using equal amounts 8000k and 3000k white in a ratio of 2:1 with blues. These are cree LEDS
So I have a few questions.
1. Do cree LEDs look better then bridgelux? I know the Cree has a high CRI. What is the CRI of the bridgelux. does high CRI translate into real world performance?
2. Would using 6500k neutral whites give the same visual as the 8000k mixed with 3000k?
I hope someone with hands on experience can chime in.
Thanks
Its suppose to approximate a 16000K color temperature. The color was perfect IMHO. I have the D120 and the razor looks better IMHO.
So im shooting for the look that the razor achieves.
They're using equal amounts 8000k and 3000k white in a ratio of 2:1 with blues. These are cree LEDS
So I have a few questions.
1. Do cree LEDs look better then bridgelux? I know the Cree has a high CRI. What is the CRI of the bridgelux. does high CRI translate into real world performance?
2. Would using 6500k neutral whites give the same visual as the 8000k mixed with 3000k?
I hope someone with hands on experience can chime in.
Thanks
ReeferSteve78
Member
My lights have 90 degree optic lens on them with a 3:2 ratio and have had great results in my corals..
kpk
Been Reefin'
My tank is 48x24x18. I have no idea what optics......
Really just needing a general idea. I'm working on a light rack and wondering how high it should be..
New IT2080 over 90 gallon
New IT2080 over 90 gallon
Thought I'd share a couple of pics. I'm very pleased with the color. This tank has a large corner overflow, so I centered the 2080 over the back row of rock. I started the tank with a couple of TMC Aquabeam 600 marine blues (12 watt crees on each) and moved those to the front of the tank for the lower light corals on the bottom. I was a little concerned that the front of the tank might look bluer than the back, but the lights all blend nicely -- no discernible color transition. The 2080 is presently set very low (12% blue and 8% white/color) as I'm acclimating the new frags. I did notice some additional color brought out by the broader spectrum on the 2080. Not much of a photographer -- just taken with my phone.
New IT2080 over 90 gallon
Thought I'd share a couple of pics. I'm very pleased with the color. This tank has a large corner overflow, so I centered the 2080 over the back row of rock. I started the tank with a couple of TMC Aquabeam 600 marine blues (12 watt crees on each) and moved those to the front of the tank for the lower light corals on the bottom. I was a little concerned that the front of the tank might look bluer than the back, but the lights all blend nicely -- no discernible color transition. The 2080 is presently set very low (12% blue and 8% white/color) as I'm acclimating the new frags. I did notice some additional color brought out by the broader spectrum on the 2080. Not much of a photographer -- just taken with my phone.
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King Nine
New member
I'm double posting this from the reefbreeder thread. Just want opinions 
:
Ok here is my maxspect rail system. I was planning on using the slide on rail brackets, screwing them to the new photons, and then using the short side of the elbow joints instead of the high side of them.(if you don't know much about maxspect rails the elbows are designed to be used either direction) If I do that I would have to hacksaw a little over an inch off one of the pipes and I don't want to do that. So I came up with this idea. I'm just looping the hanging kit over the rail and not using the long hanging wire. This will put the lights almost exactly 5" above the water. Is 5" a good hiegth with my 90 optics?
:Ok here is my maxspect rail system. I was planning on using the slide on rail brackets, screwing them to the new photons, and then using the short side of the elbow joints instead of the high side of them.(if you don't know much about maxspect rails the elbows are designed to be used either direction) If I do that I would have to hacksaw a little over an inch off one of the pipes and I don't want to do that. So I came up with this idea. I'm just looping the hanging kit over the rail and not using the long hanging wire. This will put the lights almost exactly 5" above the water. Is 5" a good hiegth with my 90 optics?
Ron Reefman
Active member
Assuming your tank is 6' long and you are getting IT2040's (Photon16's), right?
You are getting 3 of them, right? And the tank is 21" deep, so you should be good with 90 degree lenses... I think. I might have opted for an IT2060 (Photon24) for the middle fixture. But that's being overly cautious.
I'd still consider getting 120 degree lenses for all the non blue and white leds (including UV, violet, red & green) as well as all the moonlights. That would give you much better color spread from those few colors and more even moonlights which are a bit like spotlights.
You are getting 3 of them, right? And the tank is 21" deep, so you should be good with 90 degree lenses... I think. I might have opted for an IT2060 (Photon24) for the middle fixture. But that's being overly cautious.
I'd still consider getting 120 degree lenses for all the non blue and white leds (including UV, violet, red & green) as well as all the moonlights. That would give you much better color spread from those few colors and more even moonlights which are a bit like spotlights.
King Nine
New member
Ron you are right on all the above. When I spoke with Logan at Reefbreeders I expressed concern with the optics on the red LEDs. He told me that the red and moonlights all come with 120s on them which made me happy. So you think a 5" gap should be good?
I'm planning on putting them up today if I can figure out how to program them. I'm also waiting to get a PAR meter from a friend so I can check out what I have now with the T5s before puttting these guys on. Seeing as I've never checked the PAR before what numbers should I be looking to achieve?
Ron Reefman
Active member
The 5" gap should be fine.
Cool that RB has switched to using the 120 degree lenses on the moonlights and red leds. I'd want them on any leds other than blue or white. So UV and violet, unless you have a lot of violet leds (I've seen some ordered with a lot of them).
Whatever PAR you find from your t5's, set the leds about 10-20% lower for starters. The lenses make these lights burn/bleach corals easier than t5's or MH's. Then start ramping them up about 5%-10% every week or 2. Faster at first and slower later on.
There is no fixed target as it depends on so many factors. On my 55g with 2 D120's I get 200 at 21" (the bottom) and 1000 just barely under the water surface. That's at 100% blue and 65% white. I don't remember my PAR values on my IT2080's on the 180g DT but I run 90% blue and 40% white for 5 hours at mid day. I do a long slightly blue tinted sunrise for 4 hours and an even bluer 5 hour sunset. I've been running that power setting for 2 months and I'll probably bump it up a bit after I swap out some white leds for blues and violets and swap lenses from 90's to 120's on all but the blue and white leds.
Cool that RB has switched to using the 120 degree lenses on the moonlights and red leds. I'd want them on any leds other than blue or white. So UV and violet, unless you have a lot of violet leds (I've seen some ordered with a lot of them).
Whatever PAR you find from your t5's, set the leds about 10-20% lower for starters. The lenses make these lights burn/bleach corals easier than t5's or MH's. Then start ramping them up about 5%-10% every week or 2. Faster at first and slower later on.
There is no fixed target as it depends on so many factors. On my 55g with 2 D120's I get 200 at 21" (the bottom) and 1000 just barely under the water surface. That's at 100% blue and 65% white. I don't remember my PAR values on my IT2080's on the 180g DT but I run 90% blue and 40% white for 5 hours at mid day. I do a long slightly blue tinted sunrise for 4 hours and an even bluer 5 hour sunset. I've been running that power setting for 2 months and I'll probably bump it up a bit after I swap out some white leds for blues and violets and swap lenses from 90's to 120's on all but the blue and white leds.
they are the same evergrow or greensun fixtures just more expensive. there are more and more resellers every week.
I have a 4 ft long 60 gallon. 2 are needed. One will light 24 inches well at 4 inches off the water and 30 or so at 8 inches.
I would add in 480nm, 500nm, 590nm, and more 420, 630, and 660.
This will make it more full spectrum and mimic the sun better.
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