Coral Tank from Canada (1350gal Display Tank)

Status
Not open for further replies.
You have a true World Class Build happening here. With the view and vision set forth in the beginning or your build I can only say that the end will be that of a Top 5 status in the private reef world. Cheers to you my friend.

In regards to flow in your tank. I can only promote from experience in my tank. We used penguin penductors in our 300 tank and I have been very pleased.
http://www.cdibuffalo.com/filterpump/peseries.html
There are several styles on the market but I liked these in our tank. We have flow 7' from each one and since we put them on loc-line we can adjust and aim at our desire. Our tank is open on both sides and could not use a powerhead with the exception of the ends. These guys really need to be in the upper portion of the tank as they can move some sand around. You could put some pressure rated pumps on them. 2 hammerheads come to mind on you're tank and about 12-16 of these guys and that would have some serious flow. These penductors/eductors also mix at a 1/3 to 1/5 gallon rate so every gallon through the penductor flows a extra 3/5 gallons of tank water depending the pressure you are putting through the penductor. Will these be all you would have to have to keep the water flowing. Probably not in the long run but then a supplemental tunze powerhead option where you're dead spots were wouldn't be so bad then. Just my 1/2 cent. My tank not evolved enough for the whole 2 cents.


Looks World Class!!!!

Hope my ramblings are not a repeat of anyone's as I have not got to all comments so far.

Mike
 
Canister filter, yikes!! I use to have two of them side by side in a closed loop and I didn't see much benefit from it. It was a service headache too.
 
Last edited:
I seem to remember that factoid coming up in Chingchai's thread but I had since forgotten the source. His challenge was 2" acrylic. Thanks for the red flag Carl, it's appreciated.

Peter

Well, Peter, there is an option that I dont think has been mentioned yet, that's to build a dry box, or two onto each end of the tank. This will allow you to use a small section of 3/4 plexiglass that would facilitate the use of the vortech style pump. this was done on Steven Hurlock's 1200g reef - seen here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zh6Cz_H8Uhg

I believe there is a thread detailing his tank in this forum as well.
 
Well, Peter, there is an option that I dont think has been mentioned yet, that's to build a dry box, or two onto each end of the tank. This will allow you to use a small section of 3/4 plexiglass that would facilitate the use of the vortech style pump. this was done on Steven Hurlock's 1200g reef - seen here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zh6Cz_H8Uhg

I believe there is a thread detailing his tank in this forum as well.
Seriously? I just went through the last five pages post by post to make sure I wasn't repeating anything but I was going to suggest this EXACT same setup and find this EXACT same video about the 1200g tank! If I remember right the two banks of vortechs switch back and forth between each other every hour or so to switch up the gyre and make sure that the corals don't get any weird growth forms because of it. Great minds must think alike?

Seriously though, this video really shows the benefits of a Gyre styled tank and what it can do for your flow. Watch specifically when they add the food and how far and how fast it travels, as well as the fact that it makes it all the way around the tank. After listening to a talk made by Jake Adams of Reef Builders about hydrodynamics in reef tanks I personally think a lot of the old information about flow is kind of outdated. For one, people have always espoused random directional flow but corals and the rockwork themselves are shaped to take unidirectional flow (like from a gyre setup) and "bounce" the water around to make local areas of randomized and surging flow.

This is my first post on the thread but everything looks amazing so far! Good luck, nineball!
 
Why wouldn't the Tunze 6305 accomplish the same thing as the Vortech MP40 using fewer pumps? It pushes ~8,000 gph, and depending on your controller, can be tied in using your own programming. It might be a bit more physically obtrusive, but maybe it could be enclosed?

Of course, that modified Red Dragon seems very powerful, albeit comparatively more expensive.

Were any conclusions drawn on the islands?
 
Another filtration idea to consider is the RDSB, its a long read but a good one:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=595109&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

I just read (ok ok read most but may have skimmed a bit) the whole thread and I can't find a reason NOT to do it. In fact most of the practical experience seems to suggest that it should be part of a system to control nitrates as it can be introduced or withdrawn at practically no cost and HUGE benefit. Great referral, thank you.

Peter
 
Why wouldn't the Tunze 6305 accomplish the same thing as the Vortech MP40 using fewer pumps? It pushes ~8,000 gph, and depending on your controller, can be tied in using your own programming. It might be a bit more physically obtrusive, but maybe it could be enclosed?

Of course, that modified Red Dragon seems very powerful, albeit comparatively more expensive.

Were any conclusions drawn on the islands?

AFAIK, the reason this setup was designed with vortechs was because of the wider flow pattern and undertow, versus the much more directional flow from the tunzes. The point of a gyre is to use a small amount of pumps to get a massive water volume moving slowly in a circular, or gyre, flow. Since your small number of pumps are constantly accelerating the water, the water builds up momentum and travels faster and faster. This is why it takes time to establish a gyre (~five to ten minutes) in larger tanks and you have to make sure you don't have flow fighting against by flowing the opposite direction.

Honestly it seems the best option would be a combination of the two. Tunzes to "throw farther" and maybe get the gyre started faster, and vortechs with their undertow to make sure you stir up in the rockwork and near the sand bed/move a larger volume.
 
While all the tank adjustments were going on to mount the unit on the stand the crane was used to move the new backup generator that is dedicated to the aquaria and its supporting systems. It is 17,000 watts plumbed into the natural gas line to ensure that 3 seconds is all the down time the whole system will ever encounter. It tests itself once a week and confirms by email that all systems are healthy.

After the generator was placed on its pad on the side of the house we moved the three Mars systems into the basement for deployment into the fish room.

0_0_b9b728f305eb18b3f2a9549ea5cc6758_1


Close up.....

http://cdn-3-service.phanfare.com/i..._Web_3/0_0_2538af9acb618fbf25b9ff39fb7439b3_1

Mars systems

0_0_71f4ca58326b2d42e27634d71105cf16_1


http://cdn-3-service.phanfare.com/i..._Web_3/0_0_f960eae98ec43539c88e7ae05cdbd820_1

http://cdn-3-service.phanfare.com/i..._Web_3/0_0_eca727b97d09ec5912e15b625d13da1e_1


nice bentley!
 
PaulB is the expert on reverse deep sand beds---he claims the 39 yr longetivity of his tank to that. I see if he will comment

hey capn nice to see you again. if you get PaulB then the waterkeeper is coming too. I'll call on tmz then well just start the refugiums good bad and ugly thread all over again. perhaps the lonjevity thread as well?

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1540422 (refugiums)
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1520368 (longevity)


both verry long threads, lots of input and tons of helpfur info to squirrel away for later. Just plain good reads for those whom have the time.
 
Capn, Paul is not being coy, there is a simple misunderstanding here. Paul does not use RDSB (reverse deep sand bed) or what was really refered to by RDSB (remote deep sand bed). The system Paul uses is a RUGF (reverse under gravel filter) where by water flow is reverse of a typical UGF. See longevity thread (link posted above, you should have it already capn it is your thread after all, pg.1 post #10 for the explination.

Capn did you edit that previous post before i got mine up?
 
Capn, Paul is not being coy, there is a simple misunderstanding here. Paul does not use RDSB (reverse deep sand bed) or what was really refered to by RDSB (remote deep sand bed). The system Paul uses is a RUGF (reverse under gravel filter) where by water flow is reverse of a typical UGF. See longevity thread (link posted above, you should have it already capn it is your thread after all, pg.1 post #10 for the explination.

Capn did you edit that previous post before i got mine up?

yes--sorry about that:spin1:

Is there such a thing as a reverse deep sand bed?
 
:lol2:Very nice build. I have been watching since the beginning. I can't wait to see more pictures of it coming together.:lol2:
 
I just read (ok ok read most but may have skimmed a bit) the whole thread and I can't find a reason NOT to do it. In fact most of the practical experience seems to suggest that it should be part of a system to control nitrates as it can be introduced or withdrawn at practically no cost and HUGE benefit. Great referral, thank you.

Peter

No problem - my only regret was not running one from the start.
 
Wow!! Peter congratulations on a fabulous build. Great house, great tank. The whole package is very impressive. Not sure how I missed this thread until now but I'll be following along from here on.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top