brassmonkyballs
BMB
No....its not a driver....its a power supply, which is part of a driver.
Diy led
- Thread starter flworkd
- Start date
No....its not a driver....its a power supply, which is part of a driver.
calgaryreefer
New member
Thanks for the heads up almost ordered them too, so what do i need to make it work? such as the driver part of it?
Thanks again
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Well.....if you wants to buy that then u need to make your own driver. There's a thread on here for DIY LED driver using a chip called CAT4101. But if you ask me its way too much work and no cost savings.
Order a Meanwell ELN 60-48 from rapidLED.com. But you will have to run an even number of LEDs. 20 or 22. If you have read thru this thread you will have seen the discussion on parallel wiring. You can run up to 28 off this driver. $34.
Order a Meanwell ELN 60-48 from rapidLED.com. But you will have to run an even number of LEDs. 20 or 22. If you have read thru this thread you will have seen the discussion on parallel wiring. You can run up to 28 off this driver. $34.
Steven M
New member
Do these numbers look OK? 6Px6S =36 Fedy royal blue on a 15-20V 4.2A driver
forward current 680/690 measured in series (after the resistor)
forward current 740/750 across the resistor (1ohm reads 1.2 ohm on my tester)
forward voltage 3.18/3.19 across the led
total current 4.23 amps
Thanks Steve
forward current 680/690 measured in series (after the resistor)
forward current 740/750 across the resistor (1ohm reads 1.2 ohm on my tester)
forward voltage 3.18/3.19 across the led
total current 4.23 amps
Thanks Steve
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Seems good to me based on number of LEDs and configuration.
Steven M
New member
Rechecked my number across the resistor. Moved the meter to DC V and it reads 713/719.
Steven M
New member
This is the resistor
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0W-5-ND
The fuse (I know they work, when I installed the lens I pushed on one of the wires down and the fuse blow.)
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=F2313-ND
bigt0706
New member
chisel screw driver not that hard , :hammer:
FDshoez
New member
Also it appears there are a few of you that are having heat problems. Has anyone tried using metal stud? I am thinking that two stacks of three attached together(picture when I get home) could work it willthe heatsinks much more vertical surface area for the heat to dissapate.plus the channels that were created by stacking the studs gives you perfect channels to conceal the majority of the wiring and lots of surface area within the channels that you can have your fans blowing right thru them to keep cool. Just a thought.
Blackhawk007
New member
I think heat is a relative issue. I have my LED's spaced 4" apart and each of these rows has a 2 " separation (11 rows of 18 plus center row of 30) but they are staggered. My heat sink has not gone over 102 degrees. And yes anyone is welcome to stop over and confirm this if they like. On my sump light I have 60 spaced at 2". Those get up to 113 degrees. I have personally seen 1" spacing and those get smoking hot.
skunkmere
New member
Blackhawk007
New member
700 give or take 20 on the display. 690 on the dot with my sump. The sump has a nicer driver that is dead on, but its dangerous as hell.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
I agree with the density but again....matched against a current, efficient LED like Cree you will not see this problem. The PCBs these LEDs are attached to and pretty old school and do not do a good job.
Again i am running 2 builds with these things and I love the cold white color. The most recent I put 2 120mm fans on 12V blasting and sucking air and the heatsink is cold. If I turn the fans off for 2 minutes the heat quickly builds. Airflow is key and cool equals longevity and color temp.
Blackhawk007
New member
I agree that the cree have a nicer looking and functioning PCB. But I picked up a few when I got the new driver. When I removed them from the bubble wrap the lens that is on the LED came off one of them. Now I am not referring to the 60-70-80 degree lenses that we put on them. I mean the little bubble optic that is supposed to be permanently attached at the factory. I then examined the rest and noticed that I was able to easily move the lens around on all of them. They are very delicate, too delicate for me. I agree that some parts are built better than other LED's but to have the optics fall off like that is unacceptable especially for the price. I called the company that I got them from and was told that all of the Cree's are like this. Yes the Fedy's run warmer but I have not had any fall apart. Besides if it were not for Fedy them we would not have this thread. I also agree that airflow is key, but I have 52lbs of heat sink with no fans for this reason. Like all of our aquariums, there are unlimited options. I think people (like I have done) are looking for the results of others to create their own fixtures with personalized options. These are not peeing matches they are more of a long documentation of each configuration. Just because you or I don't THINK that something will work is only valid until someone tries it and gets the results, whether they are good or bad. Then that becomes the valid opinion and supersedes the opinion that is based on guesses.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
... peeing matches and whats valid or not and guesses? okay......
I guess I'll offer another inexperienced invalid opinion and a guess....your Cree having bubble lenses ... they may be older XREs .... This is current XPG.
I'd point you to some very experienced people describing the downside of stacking 10's of drivers like you are to drive large fixtures but it would be invalid and just opinions I suppose. Then again you're playing with 300v devices so you clearly know whats going on.
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