DIY LEDs with Radion Pro G2 pucks?
- Thread starter rcmike
- Start date
_shorty_
New member
Fairly broad question,
but pretty much the same components as any other DIY LED build. Probably something you want to read up about before attempting, as it will cost some $$ even though you are DIYing.Generally speaking, Pucks (LEDs) mounted to good sized heatsink(s). PC fans to actively cool the heatsinks. LED drivers to provide constant current needed, specific to the max drive current of each type of LED. Power supply of sufficient wattage to power the build. Connectors previously posted to connect wires between pucks and drivers. Optics for the pucks. And other odds and ends... Depending on what you already have on-hand.
There are multiple choices for the drivers themselves, and the format of the drivers. Some have wires you can wire directly, others are designed as surface mount. O2surplus has some great designs fully constructed to house Meanwell LDD drivers with fan speed control included. Also, tons of info in the main thread on dimming LEDs to 0 using the meanwell drivers. Links to all PCB designs are in that thread too, if you want to get your own boards printed, You can construct your own. The most simple route might be to buy a board or two from O2, or use the LDD-XXXHW, or -XXXLW drivers and wire them directly without need for PCBs, but the second route may not be quite as neat and pretty.
Also, if you want to be able to dim and tweak your overall color, you'll need a controller with PWM outputs and probably a little programming knowledge to boot. Overall, a fairly involved project.
CrazyEyes
New member
Oh man, the combinations of parts are probably just about endless. You could very easily take 1-2 Radion pucks and wire them up direct to a traditional driver(what you see in most diy led projects) i.e a Meanwell ELN-60-48D and use a POT to dim them. Only issue with this is, you then have 5 required power outlets(1 for each driver) and also that PWM dimming is much smoother than analog. They also make Meanwell ELN-60-48P's which are just the same but use PWM dimming, that you can either hookup to something like a typhon controller, a storm, Rapid LED pwm dimmer or a diy arduino. What is your ultimate goal? How many pucks are you planning on running?
_shorty_
New member
How are you guys planning on fastening the pucks to the heatsink? I'd love to use those TINY holes, and put some TINY screws, with tapped holes in the heatsink... but not sure i'm going to find a tap or screws that small.
I don't really want to use themal adhesive either. I guess the alternative is to use larger screws on the edge of the board?
EDIT - just looked at an upgrade video, and screws fit through the Lenses (which fit into the larger holes) to hold the whole thing down. So, anyone know the screw size for these holes through the lense? or do screws come with the lesne kits?
I don't really want to use themal adhesive either. I guess the alternative is to use larger screws on the edge of the board?
EDIT - just looked at an upgrade video, and screws fit through the Lenses (which fit into the larger holes) to hold the whole thing down. So, anyone know the screw size for these holes through the lense? or do screws come with the lesne kits?
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rcmike
Active member
Tapping them shouldn't be a problem. I don't want to take apart my lights to find out what size but I have some small metric screws and can see what size fits through the pucks I have. I'm about to leave for a convention, hopefully I can figure it out before I leave.
I guess I should have been more clear on my post about what to buy. I am just wanting something dim able through my apex. This will most likely be going on a frag tank and I pretty much would rather do it as simple as I can. I can figure out the heat sinks and wires and such. I have some experience soldering small electronics but I know nothing about LED ballasts. Is there one that would handle a whole puck or even two that is dim able using 0-10v control?
I guess I should have been more clear on my post about what to buy. I am just wanting something dim able through my apex. This will most likely be going on a frag tank and I pretty much would rather do it as simple as I can. I can figure out the heat sinks and wires and such. I have some experience soldering small electronics but I know nothing about LED ballasts. Is there one that would handle a whole puck or even two that is dim able using 0-10v control?
_shorty_
New member
Awesome. Thank you for checking that.
_shorty_
New member
I see your challenge now, I'm not sure your options for apex 0-10v control. I think Steve's has a controller that will covert 0-10v to PWM, and then you could run the LDDs... But I don't know if this would be the best way or not. I'd have to research it.
To use a single driver, you'd probably need to run strings in parallel. Even if you found a driver to do this, you'd have some work to figure out resistance values to even out your load. You also wouldn't really be able to tune your color.
Waterboy78
New member
Could someone provide us with the LED's specs in G1 pucks? I have 6 G1 pucks and thinking of building a complementary light unit for my 250G.
One alternative would be to build 3 separate units with two pucks each.
Any advise on drivers would also do me happy. I'm not keen on diming the different channels, 12K is ok with me. I'm looking to keep this as simple as possible.
I have som MW HLG 150-30A(?) laying around, could they be used? They are adjustable, 30V 5A units.
Br. Johan
One alternative would be to build 3 separate units with two pucks each.
Any advise on drivers would also do me happy. I'm not keen on diming the different channels, 12K is ok with me. I'm looking to keep this as simple as possible.
I have som MW HLG 150-30A(?) laying around, could they be used? They are adjustable, 30V 5A units.
Br. Johan
_shorty_
New member
I found this:
"¢8x Cree XP-G Cool White LEDs run at 5w each
"¢8x Cree XP-E Blue LEDs run at 3w each
"¢10x Cree XP-E Royal Blue LEDs run at 3w each
"¢4x Cree XP-E Green LEDs run at 3w each
"¢4x Osram Oslon SSL Hyper Red LEDs run at 3w each
Once you know the models of the LEDs - it's easy to find spec sheets and look up voltage @ max drive currents and all the other good info.
"¢XP-G Cool White: 3.25V @ 1500mA
"¢XP-E Blue: 3.5V @ 1000mA
"¢XP-E Royal Blue: 3.5V @1000mA
"¢XP-E Green: 3.8V @ 1000mA
"¢SSL Hyper Red: 2.6V @ 1000mA
You can probably use your 30V @ 5A power supplies - the question is how to configure them and with what drivers. How much can you adjust up the voltage?
Waterboy78
New member
Thank you very much, _shorty_!
I just measured the PS, it is adjustable between 23V-33V. The LDD's seem like a good alternative.
I just don't have enough knowledge about LED:s (yet ;-)) to decide on what leds to join together in a smart way. I know that the max voltage of the LEDs should not be exceeded but what is the minimum voltage to get them to light up?
I just measured the PS, it is adjustable between 23V-33V. The LDD's seem like a good alternative.
I just don't have enough knowledge about LED:s (yet ;-)) to decide on what leds to join together in a smart way. I know that the max voltage of the LEDs should not be exceeded but what is the minimum voltage to get them to light up?
Anyone have a recommended place to buy PSU and LDDs? Preferably at the same place unless its significantly cheaper separate. I noticed most everyone has the similar aluminum swiss cheese style enclosure PSU for their builds so wasn't sure if that was just standard design or a specific brand/model.
Here's the best place to buy both & they're practically local- LOL
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-ldd-h-power-supply.html
Sweet thanks for the link, looks like they have the AC-DC PSUs too! Local unfortunately also means Uncle Sam wants their cut so could be good/bad depending on their pricing...hopefully shipping is cheaper and quicker though.
If I'm planning to run two pucks driven by 5 separate LDD drivers can I run them all off one single output 150W PSU like this one?
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-rsp-150-power-supply.html
Oh ya, while you're here...do you have any 5 LDD driver boards lying around you want to get rid of?
If I'm planning to run two pucks driven by 5 separate LDD drivers can I run them all off one single output 150W PSU like this one?
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-rsp-150-power-supply.html
Oh ya, while you're here...do you have any 5 LDD driver boards lying around you want to get rid of?
Sweet thanks for the link, looks like they have the AC-DC PSUs too! Local unfortunately also means Uncle Sam wants their cut so could be good/bad depending on their pricing...hopefully shipping is cheaper and quicker though.
If I'm planning to run two pucks driven by 5 separate LDD drivers can I run them all off one single output 150W PSU like this one?
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-rsp-150-power-supply.html
Oh ya, while you're here...do you have any 5 LDD driver boards lying around you want to get rid of?
Yes- Unfortunately Obama (& the millions on Welfare that depend on him) & and that whack job- Gerry "Geritol" Brown both get their cut. LOL
I'm also tapped out on LDD-H PcB's right now. :headwally:
_shorty_
New member
Sweet thanks for the link, looks like they have the AC-DC PSUs too! Local unfortunately also means Uncle Sam wants their cut so could be good/bad depending on their pricing...hopefully shipping is cheaper and quicker though.
If I'm planning to run two pucks driven by 5 separate LDD drivers can I run them all off one single output 150W PSU like this one?
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-rsp-150-power-supply.html
Oh ya, while you're here...do you have any 5 LDD driver boards lying around you want to get rid of?
The highest voltage demand looks like the blues @ 3.5v (1000mA). Each puck has 4 of them, so assuming you ran each color on one driver, and both pucks in series, that's at least 28v (8 x 3.5). Then you have to allow a couple volts for the driver on each circuit.. So you are at a minimum of a 30v power supply.
I don't know for sure how much total voltage your blues are going to need at 100%, but I would try to estimate large, and give myself a little wiggle room. I personally would feel good about a 30v PS that I could adjust up a little. I'm not so sure about a 27v power supply, unless you can adjust it up to at least 30v or a tiny bit more.
Again, a PS at exactly 30v by itself may be fine, but I don't have a ton of experience with this, so I'm going to overestimate a little to make sure everything is going to work.
Edit: oh wait! I just realize if running the Gen 1, there are 5 royal blue per puck?... Thats 35v, unless you split the royal blues into two circuits using two different drivers. And don't forget to add a couple volts for the drivers in you calcs.
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I need to catch up for the last couple days worth of posts, but........
there is no reason not to run the radion pucks at less than max current. Hell it would be prefferable IMHO as I've heard reports from many that over time they loose a lot of output when running at full power. (cree rates life span at 700mA and very low junction temp on the LED chips used in the pucks, so running at 1500mA is sure to drastically reduce life with them that close together)........just my two cents as there are no "comercial" lighting manuracturers running these chips past 700mA and most are only pushing 350 with exception of street lighting which has massive heatsinks by comparison.
some chips can run at maximum rating but look at how they are rated if it's using a juction temp of 25C in the rating then now way in hell you will see that in a DIY or with the radion pucks. Most ratings at 1500mA are "calculated" not actual......
Not to throw a wrench into anyones plans but just run things at 500, 700, or 1000mA using the LDD H and don't worry about it
there is no reason not to run the radion pucks at less than max current. Hell it would be prefferable IMHO as I've heard reports from many that over time they loose a lot of output when running at full power. (cree rates life span at 700mA and very low junction temp on the LED chips used in the pucks, so running at 1500mA is sure to drastically reduce life with them that close together)........just my two cents as there are no "comercial" lighting manuracturers running these chips past 700mA and most are only pushing 350 with exception of street lighting which has massive heatsinks by comparison.
some chips can run at maximum rating but look at how they are rated if it's using a juction temp of 25C in the rating then now way in hell you will see that in a DIY or with the radion pucks. Most ratings at 1500mA are "calculated" not actual......
Not to throw a wrench into anyones plans but just run things at 500, 700, or 1000mA using the LDD H and don't worry about it
@ rcmike, you could just wire things up in series on a single driver, wouldn't probably be able to get all LEDs on on driver from a single puck but possibly everything but the red's and greens depending on which pucks you were using (I forget....)
Parallel strings for the lower current stuff would be easy with a very simple current mirror. search for it I expanded on an extensive writeup on them a while back, they can be quite simple...
