DIY Red Dragon Pumps, gathering ideas.

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@Jeff..
please look in the middle of the standart Laguna Impeller. You see a golden metallic-ring. That is a mixture from copper and brass and toxic for saltwater.

@Rishma..
very interesting posting.... so we testing last time all metallic alloys for search saltwaterresitant shafts for the new DC-Pump.
The Duplex-family are not free of corrosion. I dont now the word in english lenguage, in german we say : interkristalline Korrosion. We tested the Duplex-steal-shafts in my skimmer-test tank... In this tank is a high level of oxygene, and a little electricity. This mix is a horror for non corrosive stuffs...I foundet the best alloys for shafts : Wolframcarbide, Titanium, HastelloyC. Wolframcarbide is breakable, titanium is to soft und HastelloyC to expensive. Duplex is rusting in 2-3 days after beginning the test....the Duplex we can make more hardness by high temperaturs more as 800 Grad. In the future we using for the Red Dragon2-shafts Titanium and glued the Siliziumcarbid Bearings on the Titaniumshaft.
The meshwheels from Titanium is possible for make this. The wire is very thin. 0.1 to 0.2 mm and the cost are not so high..there are special machines, which can knit a network from a wire. The cost of a Titanium-meshwheel is 30.- Dollar and from HastelloyC 40-50.- Dollar...

regards...
 
Klaus, which duplex stainless steels are you running? Also, have you tried CW6M or even N7M? These may be a little higher in price, but the corrosive properties are a little less... Zirconium is an option, but you can't buy it for this kind of use. Also, check into Nitronics50, 17-4PH, and Ultimet. It could be worth it to find out which one would work the best, and corrodes the least/not at all.
 
How do you disconnect the impellor from the ceramic shaft without breaking it.
I used a dab of silicone to seal up that copper brass ring klaus was talking about. But i would feel safer with it removed.
The cap is a pressure fitting and the only way i see it being able to remove it is snapping the shaft.
 
Creetin, if your trying to put a different impeller on you need to with a dremel tool or on a lathe cut the white polyethylene down. Then once you are down to the brass cut the brass off gently. Any residual glue or metal could be dremeled off smooth or done on a lathe. Then with just the bare center ceramic shaft a new impeller can be mounted. I would take the route that Klaus took which is to have a precision machined, holowed out threaded piece of plastic that will fit over the now maked shaft from which different threaded impellers can be screwed on. The picture below of the new RD impeller shows the threaded piece I am trying to make.

 
Creetin, I think I realise now that you want to use the stock impeller. If that is the case I would work down the PE right around the pressure fitting so that you remive the impeller from the brass without taking too much of the center part of the impeller off. The impeller center could be cleaned up once detached and refitted to the naked ceramic shaft through different means. Personally I would just get a sheet of PE and heat weld a quater sized piece of it to the cleaned up impeller so that it could be drilled and threaded in the center, then attached to a threaded piece added to the ceramic shaft end as I previesly posted.
 
I have a mechanical engineer working on doing this for me on the side that has access to a mchine shop. Will post progress once work begins.
 
dude...i looks like in your pictures that there is a screw holding the turbines of the impeller to the shaft. does that not just come right out?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9823277#post9823277 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 30mini
Klaus, which duplex stainless steels are you running? Also, have you tried CW6M or even N7M? These may be a little higher in price, but the corrosive properties are a little less... Zirconium is an option, but you can't buy it for this kind of use. Also, check into Nitronics50, 17-4PH, and Ultimet. It could be worth it to find out which one would work the best, and corrodes the least/not at all.

@30Mini...
we testing standart Duplex steels. Technical informations you can found here : http://www.goodfellow.com/csp/active/static/G/H.HTML


regards... Klaus
 
klaus if the meshwheel comes out for the reddragon is it possible for me to buy the head for my reddragon? skimmer pump 2250
 
LOl well i broke the shaft and impellor. Damn, Thats a pretth big piece of brass in there. Luckaly i still have another pump, I will order a new impellor for the 5000. Not too bad at 22 bucks, But i wish they didnt use brass, Why couldnt they use stainless?
Or better yet let the damn thing come apart. You can't rip the old ceramic shaft out its one piece with the impellor.

I dunno if water will get to the brass if you seal the end up with silicone or superglue since the tension clasp is on the id of the impellor leaving only one face exposed, and if you seal that end with superglue it would make one end watertight. The tension clasp side is on there pretty damn tight!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9823535#post9823535 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dudedudedude
Creetin, if your trying to put a different impeller on you need to with a dremel tool or on a lathe cut the white polyethylene down. Then once you are down to the brass cut the brass off gently. Any residual glue or metal could be dremeled off smooth or done on a lathe. Then with just the bare center ceramic shaft a new impeller can be mounted. I would take the route that Klaus took which is to have a precision machined, holowed out threaded piece of plastic that will fit over the now maked shaft from which different threaded impellers can be screwed on. The picture below of the new RD impeller shows the threaded piece I am trying to make.


Can you say "3M Roloc Bristle Disc"?
 
@Creetin..
look the shaft-design from Red Dragon BK-Pumps... thats very hard for breakable this shafts... Ceramic-shafts for Skimmer-Pumps are not a good idea.....

@Spykes...
yes. thats possible....... are ready the development, we can give you the Metall-Meshwheels.... For the Modells BK 400 so it is possible change the motorblock to Brushless DC Pump in the future. So we hope, middle/end of this year, we can delivery the new Pumps with speedadjustable Meshwheels to USA...

@inflames..
no, we drilling the Needlewheels myself....
.
Ultimax4.jpg

Nadelradfrsen.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9825245#post9825245 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Creetin
LOl well i broke the shaft and impellor. Damn, Thats a pretth big piece of brass in there. Luckaly i still have another pump, I will order a new impellor for the 5000. Not too bad at 22 bucks, But i wish they didnt use brass, Why couldnt they use stainless?
Or better yet let the damn thing come apart. You can't rip the old ceramic shaft out its one piece with the impellor.

I dunno if water will get to the brass if you seal the end up with silicone or superglue since the tension clasp is on the id of the impellor leaving only one face exposed, and if you seal that end with superglue it would make one end watertight. The tension clasp side is on there pretty damn tight!!

If the shaft and impeller is broken already, why don't you break it apart to see if the under side is exposed. I have a feeling it is. The had no reason to seal it.
Mike
 
I did and there is a flange on the aluminum spacer that seals one end and the outer end is exposed.
The brass insert is there for support i believe.

Anywho, I am not moddng for a skimmer pump, I hoped to use the 2905 for a circulation pump.
 
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